gen 2 Brakes

[clawed]

GO 49er's!......A quick ? Any of u that have changed out ur brake calipers, to R-1's etc......Does this take care of the un-even pad wear, in the rear brakes? Has anyone done the trouble shooting, and find what the problem is? Thank's for any answers....

[crowrod]

I read on here some where it might be caused by putting the axle spacer n the wrong spot .

[clawed]

don't think so, as the rotor wud be on the dynogoggle, and both inner and outer pads wud wear the same?

[eusa1]

I have not found any fix, however if you swap the inside pad with the outside pad, you can get a few more miles out of them.

[First_N_Last]

GO 49er's!......A quick ? Any of u that have changed out ur brake calipers, to R-1's etc......Does this take care of the un-even pad wear, in the rear brakes? Has anyone done the trouble shooting, and find what the problem is? Thank's for any answers....

 

I found a fix to the stock rear brake pad wear issue...

convert it to a Trike with a Hannigan kit.

JohnnyB

[clawed]

OK, I guess I'll do some tests, and try to figure this out. Something is moving, that's not supposed to, or something is not moving the way it should! Maybe there is a solution/ maybe NOT! All RSV's do this off the showroom floor. and yes I continually swap pads/ 2-3k:fingers-crossed-emo

[skydoc_17]

Hey Clawed,

Her are a few things I have discovered after working on a "few" of these bikes over the years.

First and foremost, you must make sure that the rear caliper is not dragging the inboard pad on the rotor. There is nothing inside a motorcycle brake caliper that retracts the caliper pistons. Period. If brake pad dust and brake fluid have built up around the caliper pistons then the brake pad is going to rub the rotor, causing premature pad wear.

Next, with the linked brakes on a First Gen. if the front left brake caliper is dragging, it will pressurize the left front/rear braking system controlled by the foot pedal and keep the rear caliper partially engaged. When you De-Link your braking system, you will remove this issue from the equation.

Next, if you have the brake foot pedal adjusted to tight, when the rear Master Cylinder brake fluid expands because it is located right next to the rear exhaust manifold, it will increase the length of the fluid path and engage the rear brake caliper, causing a rear brake lock up. (or just cause the rear caliper to drag) The fix is to remove about 1/4 of the fluid from the rear Master Cylinder.

I have had good luck installing the rear caliper without pads, and measuring from the caliper pistons, (fully compressed) to the inner and outer edge of the rotor and using shims, centered the caliper body on the rotor.

Lastly, check the rear caliper for a gash that has been cut by the steel backing plate of the brake pads. This gash will not let the brake pad back off when the brake pads have been released. You see this quite a bit on the MKII First Gens. because the rear rotor on the MKII's is HUGE, and the rotational torque on the caliper body it tremendous.

I have attached a pic to show you what to look for.

For the MKII First Gen. owners, I now offer a 4 piston, progressive engagement rear caliper (just like the R1 front calipers) from a Yamaha FJR that is a direct, bolt on replacement for the stock MKII VR caliper that comes freshly rebuilt.

If you have questions, or are interested in this upgraded caliper, please feel free to PM me.

Earl