The "NO QUESTION IS STUPID " rule is in effect here...

[Barrycuda]

Ok gang here we go. Those who read my posts know I am not mechanically inclined, however I would like to ask a few questions that have been on my mind. I am a " why do you do that" guy and I am sure the normal crew and then some may answer so here it is... (Please bear with me)

 

1- what is the actual purpose of LOCTITE? What's the primary reason it is used? When do you use it, and WHY? Is is a preventive measure or after something occurs? Where does this apply and when would I need to use it if at all ...

 

2- I read all the time that those who change their own oil tend to use the Rotella T oil, or mobil1. The chaps at my dealer, who are long time guys, say that stock oil is just fine in Florida and may use the 20 weight in summer. Again...WHY are you guys using it and what are some of the many positives vs straight stock oil... I am interested in eventually changing my own oil and want to learn the why...

 

3- i have read here before that the oil filter used most often is the purolator. It is actually written on the notes in the manual from previous owner. What makes that superior and WHY is it preferred. What model purolator?

 

4- what type of slime tire kit do most of you prefer. Anyone have a picture?

 

With me being still learning and adjusting to the bike/forum etc, I Read many replies. I read as many as I can from the usual suspects ( FREEBIRD, Squidley, Eck and anyone else I may have not mentioned by name) . I want the best for my bike to live a healthy and long lasting life, without me having to get ripped off at dealer or go to mechanic school to do so. Any and all information would be appreciated as I am trying to educate myself a bit on the bike and its plus and minuses on subjects. I am not interested or equipped to be a gear head. But some basic preventive maintenance wouldn't be so bad.

 

Thanks in advance mates...

[steamer]

1... loctite is used to prevent screws,bolts and nuts from coming lose from vibration.

 

2... use whatever oil makes you feel good. Any oil will be fine as long as you change it per required with a new filter and is the right weight for the conditions you ride in.

 

3...Purolator filters are better constructed the fram. there are others that will work just fine.

 

4... Any slim kit will work, pick one that is the right size for the bikes tires and that is easy to store on the bike.

 

Some people are very fussy about what they put in and on there bikes, just do what feel right for you. If you follow good preventative maintance your bike will last damn near forever.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Loctite lubricates the threads as the fastener is torqued in, and helps the fastener hold that torque over time. Dont use it in close proximity to ABS plastic. It will crack the plastic just from the fumes.

 

 

Oil preference is like religion, so you will get many answers. I prefer 20-40 non-synthetic in my Royal Star, others might prefer synthetic. These bikes are water cooled, so the oil doesnt normally 'cook' like it can in an air/oil-cooled bike on hot summer days in stop and go traffic. Changing it regularly is at least as important as the quality, since the oil in these bikes also lubricates the transmission. You have some breakdown (called shear) of oil between those gear teeth, and of course the deposits that any internal combustion motor will introduce into the oil in the crankcase.

 

'Short tripping' the bike is 'severe duty', so if you do that alot, you should shorten the drain intervals. Pulling a trailer is also 'severe duty'.

 

Oil filters: I buy good quality and the Purolator or Yamaha fits the bill. Avoid Fram.

 

Slime kit? Do you mean the tire patching kit or the inflator kit? I keep a small Slime brand inflator in my left saddlebag, along with a plug kit and a bottle of Slime for the emergency roadside repairs. I dont put Slime in perfectly good tires, due to the fact that ANY moisture in a tire is bad, over time. Personal preferences will of course vary on this too.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

[2WHEELSFORME]

1- what is the actual purpose of LOCTITE? What's the primary reason it is used? When do you use it, and WHY? Is is a preventive measure or after something occurs? Where does this apply and when would I need to use it if at all ... Used to keep bolts from backing out on thier own. I use it on the bolts holding the calipers to the forks and frame and any bolt they has unscrewd on it's own in the past.

2- I read all the time that those who change their own oil tend to use the Rotella T oil, or mobil1. The chaps at my dealer, who are long time guys, say that stock oil is just fine in Florida and may use the 20 weight in summer. Again...WHY are you guys using it and what are some of the many positives vs straight stock oil... I am interested in eventually changing my own oil and want to learn the why... Even the worst modern oil is very good so use any that meets the owners manual specs. Price is a consideration for some but many are anal about oil. Change often and your bike will break from something else first other than something caused by the oil you use. Then you can say "I have always used so & so and never had any problems."

3- i have read here before that the oil filter used most often is the purolator. It is actually written on the notes in the manual from previous owner. What makes that superior and WHY is it preferred. What model purolator? Google for an article about testing oil filters. Model? Do your looking because it is on this site somewhere.

4- what type of slime tire kit do most of you prefer. Anyone have a picture? I would not use a slime kit except in an emergency. I carry a tire plug kit made for bikes and had to use it once on a friends bike and it worked great.

 

[Guest scarylarry]

I'll add to steamer's:

 

loctite is used to prevent screws,bolts and nuts from coming lose from vibration..Use the blue not the red, red will lock it down tighter and you might be able to get out..Blue is like a high $$$ lock washer it ain't going no where...

 

3...Purolator filters are better constructed the fram. there are others that will work just fine...Fram has been known for a lot of issues, some swear by them other swear against them...I use bosh..Either way a quality should be use..

 

say that stock oil is just fine in Florida and may use the 20 weight in summer....Are talking about straight 20w no viscosity, meaning 20w-50 or 10w-40?

 

Always use a MC oil shell meets the requirements for MC oil

[bongobobny]

OK you've gotten enough answers about loctite, it secures the nut/bolt so it doesn't loosen with vibration. It acts like paint on the threads. Use the "undoable" blue stuff if you think you may need to take it off in the future,

 

OK Synthetic oil keeps it's viscocity or slickness longer than organic oil. That being said, on lower mileage motors you actually WANT a certain amount of wear to happen to parts, it's called seating the moving parts to each other, so you do not want to user synthetic for at least 10,000 miles to 25,000 miles. Synthetic oil will remain slippery for a longer period of time so it does not have to be changed quite as frequently. With ourt "wet" clutch, do not use any additives as it will make the clutch slip. Myself I use diesel15W40 or 20W45 like Delo brand, etc. The purolator filter has a shut off valve in the filter to prevent it from draining dry as the bike sets, but so do many others. Fram, IMHO, is one to stay away from for any vehicle pretty much due to poor quality control of the product. It's the old cheaper, better, faster (chose 1) rule. I mostly use Bosch myself.

 

As far as slime, I'm not real sure on this, but I think they recommend you do not use the product on MC tires but I may be wrong

 

 

There are no stupid questions here, just some stupid answers...

[stevej]

Loctite -A little more information regarding its use, as mentioned above there is red and blue, with the blue being the more permanent hold than the red. Talk to the person at the auto parts store to get the formulation that will work the best for the application you are doing. If you assemble something with loctite and in the future find that you need to take it apart again, a small amount of heat on the nut or the head of the bolt (depends if the nut is accessable or if the bolt is threaded into a part that is not heatable) will loosen the loctite for easier removal.

 

Unless you are doing a specific project that calls for green loctite, do not use it. It requires a large amount of heat for removal.

[saddlebum]

Loctite -A little more information regarding its use, as mentioned above there is red and blue, with the blue being the more permanent hold than the red. Talk to the person at the auto parts store to get the formulation that will work the best for the application you are doing. If you assemble something with loctite and in the future find that you need to take it apart again, a small amount of heat on the nut or the head of the bolt (depends if the nut is accessable or if the bolt is threaded into a part that is not heatable) will loosen the loctite for easier removal.

 

Unless you are doing a specific project that calls for green loctite, do not use it. It requires a large amount of heat for removal.

 

 

If I may correct the above statement --There is basicly 4 types of loctite for keeping bolts and fittings from coming loose or leaking.

1. Is blue, it is a medium strength as well as a sealer, Use on bolts of any size.
   
2. Is red it is a high strength. Avoid using on bolts smaller than 3/8 of an inch or 10mm
   
3. last is green it is very high strength used mainly for locking sleeves and bushings in place. Will fill a gap of .020" and once cured has tremendus strength. It can be used an very large bolts 1/2 or bigger
   
4. Last there is PST it is white of low strength used primarily for sealing fittings but very useful for sealing bolts that thread into oil or water gallery's and will also help to prevent loosening.
   

When using loctite clean parts well. Although a good wipe with a clean rag works well cleaning parts with brake clean works even better. No need to rush when assembling parts it does not cure until the part is secured in place as it cures only in absence of air. You can actually leave the bolt you applied it to on the bench all night but once threaded into place it cures in a matter of minutes.

One last note there is an activator that you can spray the parts with that really speed up the curing process put unless you are skilled and quick at what you are doing I do not recommend that the average person use it.

[MiCarl]

I'd like to add that around here WalMart has started carrying Purolator filters. I'm not a filter snob, but that makes it the easiest and cheapest to get.

[Barrycuda]

As usual, excellent and informative replies. I appreciate all the info given. As for the slime question, it was in reference to the kit in case of a flat on the road. Someone showed a pic of a small square battery operated air pressure kit.

[Eck]

Ok gang here we go. Those who read my posts know I am not mechanically inclined, however I would like to ask a few questions that have been on my mind. I am a " why do you do that" guy and I am sure the normal crew and then some may answer so here it is... (Please bear with me)

 

1- what is the actual purpose of LOCTITE? What's the primary reason it is used? When do you use it, and WHY? Is is a preventive measure or after something occurs? Where does this apply and when would I need to use it if at all ...

All you need to know about loctite you can read here. This is very informative.

 

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/168592_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide.pdf

 

 

2- I read all the time that those who change their own oil tend to use the Rotella T oil, or mobil1. The chaps at my dealer, who are long time guys, say that stock oil is just fine in Florida and may use the 20 weight in summer. Again...WHY are you guys using it and what are some of the many positives vs straight stock oil... I am interested in eventually changing

my own oil and want to learn the why...

Many of us like synthetic oil vs / stock oil. Personal preference / opinons is your answer here.

 

 

3- i have read here before that the oil filter used most often is the purolator. It is actually written on the notes in the manual from previous owner. What makes that superior and WHY is it preferred. What model purolator?

I think its because it is a cheap (cost wise) oli filter that most use it here. I forgot the actual number we use. Someone else can chim in. When I get home I can look it up if not answered by then

 

4- what type of slime tire kit do most of you prefer. Anyone have a picture?

I do not use slime products. It "may" effect the aluminum wheels, so I personally do not use it. I use a rope type tire plug kit

 

With me being still learning and adjusting to the bike/forum etc, I Read many replies. I read as many as I can from the usual suspects ( FREEBIRD, Squidley, Eck and anyone else I may have not mentioned by name) . I want the best for my bike to live a healthy and long lasting life, without me having to get ripped off at dealer or go to mechanic school to do so. Any and all information would be appreciated as I am trying to educate myself a bit on the bike and its plus and minuses on subjects. I am not interested or equipped to be a gear head. But some basic preventive maintenance wouldn't be so bad.

 

Thanks in advance mates...

....

[cb1313]

Most tire slime is for low pressure tires. Google " ride on tire sealent", made for motorcycle tires.

Cb

[djh3]

The Shell Rotella T6 syn seems to be "best bang for the buck" Syn oil available. It meets the requirments and is like $21 a galon @ Wally World. Mobil 1 is $10 a quart, dont take a government accountant to figure this out. I change mine @ 4500 miles as recomended in the owners manual. I am using Purolator L14610 Its 3.25" long so it get a little more filtering done. Here is a link to oil filter cross refference, he also has links on side of this page to brush up on your knowledge of oil filters and why we think what we do about them. I run Dyna beads for balancing my tires, therfore I cant put any slime/sealer stuff in my tires. It will cause the beads to clump up and not do thier job. Not a big fan of the sealant stuff anyways. I have had it in some truck/car tires before and it does nasty things to the inside unless you dismount and clean it all up ASAP. I carry a tire plug kit and one of the inflators that uses the small C02 bottles to inflate.

 

Locktite: You got tons of good answers. Blue=I take it apart now and then, also goo for disimular metals say alum screw into steel nut plate or the like. Red= I dont want this to come apart. Green=We use to use this one when building race car differentals on the ring gear bolts, carrier bolts and the like. The good stuff will be like a liquid weld, usualy need heat to get it back apart.

[etcswjoe]

If you do use slime do not leave it in your tire for any lenght of time it will corrode your rims, I can show you pics if you desire.

[Barrycuda]

Instead of the slime, what type of plugs are used and where can I purchase them?

[Barrycuda]

The Shell Rotella T6 syn seems to be "best bang for the buck" Syn oil available. It meets the requirments and is like $21 a galon @ Wally World. Mobil 1 is $10 a quart, dont take a government accountant to figure this out. I change mine @ 4500 miles as recomended in the owners manual. I am using Purolator L14610 Its 3.25" long so it get a little more filtering done. Here is a link to oil filter cross refference, he also has links on side of this page to brush up on your knowledge of oil filters and why we think what we do about them. I run Dyna beads for balancing my tires, therfore I cant put any slime/sealer stuff in my tires. It will cause the beads to clump up and not do thier job. Not a big fan of the sealant stuff anyways. I have had it in some truck/car tires before and it does nasty things to the inside unless you dismount and clean it all up ASAP. I carry a tire plug kit and one of the inflators that uses the small C02 bottles to inflate.

 

Locktite: You got tons of good answers. Blue=I take it apart now and then, also goo for disimular metals say alum screw into steel nut plate or the like. Red= I dont want this to come apart. Green=We use to use this one when building race car differentals on the ring gear bolts, carrier bolts and the like. The good stuff will be like a liquid weld, usualy need heat to get it back apart.

 

I would like to see about setting up a time and place to meet up with you. Like Steve K, you seem to have some good ideas and answers.....

[Pic]

A note on small air compressor. I have the Slime, bought it at Wal-Mart and it works fine. But the 12 volt DC plug in the fairing only has a 5 amp fuse in it and any small air compreesor will blow this fuse. If it does not have one add a another 12 V DC plug wired from the battery with a 20 amp fuse. There is a hole already on the RSV behind the drivers seat on the left side, it will have a plastic plug in it. You can get an auxillary plug with a cover at just about any autoparts store.

[Freebird]

Maybe I just missed it but I don't see where Ride On was mentioned. That seems to be the sealant that most here have used. I've never used any type of sealant in my tires but from the reports I've read here, it seems to be the product of choice and does not harm aluminum rims.

[Flyinfool]

A few points to touch on.

 

Loctite

Loctite is a specific thread locker brand name. Not all brands are equal or even use the same colors for the same strength.

It is best to use the actual P/N of loctite since there are over 50 Loctite products and only 7 colors to go around.

What is normally used in our applications is;

Blue - Loctite 242 (Can be disassembled with hand tools)

Red - Loctite 262 (Requires 400° heat for disassembly)

Green - Loctite 290 (thread locker for already assembled fasteners)

Green - Loctite 620 (Bearing retainer) (some use this as a permanent thread locker)

 

It was only mentioned once but is extremely important.

DO NOT GET ANY THREAD LOCKER ANYWHERE NEAR PLASTIC.

Thread lockers will destroy plastic, it does not even have to touch the plastic, just the nearby fumes will do damage.

 

Oil;

Any brand will work if you change oil regularly.

VERY IMPORTANT - The oil must be made for a motorcycle wet clutch. If it does not say for use with a motorcycle wet clutch, do not use it.

 

Filter;

I use the OEM filter.

 

Tires;

I carry a patch kit and an air pump. I get a new kit every year because they dry out and don't work as well when they get old.

[Barrycuda]

A few points to touch on.

 

Loctite

Loctite is a specific thread locker brand name. Not all brands are equal or even use the same colors for the same strength.

It is best to use the actual P/N of loctite since there are over 50 Loctite products and only 7 colors to go around.

What is normally used in our applications is;

Blue - Loctite 242 (Can be disassembled with hand tools)

Red - Loctite 262 (Requires 400° heat for disassembly)

Green - Loctite 290 (thread locker for already assembled fasteners)

Green - Loctite 620 (Bearing retainer) (some use this as a permanent thread locker)

 

It was only mentioned once but is extremely important.

DO NOT GET ANY THREAD LOCKER ANYWHERE NEAR PLASTIC.

Thread lockers will destroy plastic, it does not even have to touch the plastic, just the nearby fumes will do damage.

 

Oil;

Any brand will work if you change oil regularly.

VERY IMPORTANT - The oil must be made for a motorcycle wet clutch. If it does not say for use with a motorcycle wet clutch, do not use it.

 

Filter;

I use the OEM filter.

 

Tires;

I carry a patch kit and an air pump. I get a new kit every year because they dry out and don't work as well when they get old.

 

 

Thanks flyinfool. I comprende loud, red and clear on LOCTITE and plastic.

[Barrycuda]

Thanks Don as usual...

[Flyinfool]

Thanks flyinfool. I comprende loud, red and clear on LOCTITE and plastic.

 

I didn't really mean to yell so loud, but there is story after story of disintegrated fairings and other plastic parts due to loctite, on this and other forums.

[Prairiehammer]

[djh3]

Yea I forgot. Locktite is "brand name" Guess it get used by myself and others as a generic name. My read is 272 I think the blue I have is a paste sort of stuff in a chap stick sort of bottle. The green I have is the thick "retension" type stuff. Its what we used. And if using thread locker-a little goes along ways.