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Posted

I know we have a lot of different craftsmen and professions here on the site. I have a question for the builders here.

 

I have a 30X40 metal building that I use for a garage, it has a 20X30 upper loft type area. The weather down here in the Houston area has been crazy, 75 one day 45 the next. The humidity is crazy as well. What is happening is it's literally like it has rained inside the garage. The floor is soaking wet and has small moisture puddles on the floor, everything is sweating. It has a metal corrugated roof and there is obviously no venting of it.

 

What do I need to do, to stop the sweating inside the garage. I am thinking of spray foaming the inside ceiling, I know the heating and cooling is creating condensation and I need to get some sort of vapor barrier. Any words of wisdom from y'all in the know would be greatly appreciated. Here's a few pics of the garage also.

Posted

From the pics I don't see any vents I would have a louvered vent with a screen on one end and another one with a fan on the other that would take care of the humidity I would think.

Posted

You could try insulating your upper floor and cover with plastic as a moisture barrier. I'm more familioar with northern cliamates but it seems if you insulate your lower area from the upper area it should tend to stabalize the temp in the lower area. The moisture is coming from the warm moist air cooling and having the moisture literally squeezed out of the aIr...

Posted

I'm not a builder, but I have an opinion: There is room for way more motorcycles in that garage!

 

Your problem is essentially the same thing that causes dew. The roof sheds heat at night and moisture from the air condenses against it. The condensation on the inside falls on the floor and your stuff. The answer is insulation.

Posted

I'm with Carl on this one, and I would add a heater, doesn't have to be a big one, just something to add a little heat.

Insulate and vent and heat, all are needed. Probably only need 2" or less insulation.

Posted

+20? on the insulation Brad.

(the spray on expanding kind for the walls and ceiling.)

 

It will make a hugh difference in being able to maintain a temperature.

 

After I reinforce the roof in my 4 bay 55 x 60 garage It will be sprayed. (dang... i found another project)

 

Only thing i can add is make sure you have enough electrical recpticals , and pressurized air plumbed in, as it would be a pain to add later. :mo money:

Posted

I CHANGED MY GARAGE BACK WHEN I BOUGHT MY PLACE FROM A 1 STALL WITH A LEAN TO, TO A FULL 2 STALL, FRIEND HAD NEW TIN FROM A JOB HE WORKED AT ,WAS GOING TO THROW AWAY VIA HIS BOSS'S INSTRUCTION'S, GAVE IT TO ME , TURN'D OUT TO BE JUST ENOUGH TO COVER ROOF. TOLD ME TO PUT DOWN STYROFOAM FIRST BEFORE THE TIN, NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEM WITH CONDENSATION. SO I QUESS THE THING TO DO IS INSULATE.:2cents:

Posted

In the boating world we deal with condensation all the time. When it comes to fiberglass hulled boats generally one or two light bulbs.. depending on the size of the boat.. will keep interior temps above dew point, but with aluminum and steel hulls the only answer to the problem is complete insulation. Basically making it a giant thermos bottle. In the winter your building will suck in humid air during the day, and then at night cool off to dew point. The idea is to keep the humid air away from the cooler ceiling and walls. Another way to combat the dew is to keep air moving during the night to match the temp of the outside air. When the interior temps are the same as outside temps you won't get condensation. On boats we install solar fans in the hatch covers. The things charge up during the day and run most of the night. After looking at the pics the ceiling and walls look to be aluminum?? If so I bet it's hotter than he11 during the summers in Texas. :2cents:

Posted

Thanks again fellas, I'm under the thinking like most of you, I have to create a thermal break on the steel walls. I'm going to check on the spray foam insulation, I'm not sure if you can rent a unit and apply it yourself or if it has to be applied by a contractor?

 

Keep them coming, information is a good thing :)

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