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Posted

While cleaning block up today, I took some pictures of the 2nd drain plug on the 1st gen blocks. I Don't know if the 2nd gens have a similar 'feature'.

 

On the left side, directly under the middle drive cover there is a 14mm head bolt that goes into block and drains an oil pocket. This pocket appears to serve as a lubrication pool for the middle drive gear. Not very big, maybe about the size of a milk container that I remember from school, half pint I think. This pocket is isolated from draining, so a normal oil change will not drain this oil.

 

Curiously, there is another pocket that is isolated that lays outside of the pocket that has the drain screw It is an 'L' shaped pocket that is below & to the right in the 1st picture. No drain provision for this area though. It would be nice to know what the design intent was for the 2nd outer pocket, and why it is not can't be drained.

 

Gary

Posted

Curiously, there is another pocket that is isolated that lays outside of the pocket that has the drain screw It is an 'L' shaped pocket that is below & to the right in the 1st picture. No drain provision for this area though. It would be nice to know what the design intent was for the 2nd outer pocket, and why it is not can't be drained.

Gary

 

One of the more knowledgeable Vmax guys pointed out that the outer 'L' shaped pocket can be drained by removing the lower middle drive cover bolt, one with copper crush washer on it.

 

These two pockets probably contain a half quart of oil combined, this is old oil that is being mixed with the fresh oil at each change if these pockets are not drained.

 

Gary

Posted

Any problem with drilling a small (1/4 inch) hole in the wall of that l shaped compartment? That way you would get total drainage. Just a thought.

Posted

I change my oil so often that mixing a small amount of old oil with new makes no difference. I tend to change mine every 2000 miles simply because I am working on it and have it up on the lift and apart, I might as well change the oil while I am there.....

 

But good to know where that is in case I ever get to ride the bike more than 3000 miles between repair sessions.

Posted

There are allways small areas of undrained oil in engine blocks from my experience. Yes it get mixed in with "new oil". I would say normally it is a very minimul amount, not enough to worry about unless you run really extended oil change intervals. I run the longer of the 2 oil filter from Purolator with the thought that more media filter more crap out. I supose if it aint a huge PIA you could just pull the plug at same time you do the other one. On my 900 Kasaki Vulcan there was an oil screen pre-oil pump. Recomendation was first 2 oil cahnges pull the screen, every other oil change after that. I have seen the 2 drain plugs on my 2nd gen, and had to read up on oil changes when I first got the bike to be sure was servicing correctly. So may look into pulling this plug from now on.

On a side note with the block all disassembled like that it really dont show me where the "extra" plug is. I'll have to do a compairison look.

Posted
In picture 5, is the hole to the right the shift shaft hole ? Just trying to orient myself as to where the drain plug is.

 

Yes, both 14mm hex head drain & the allen head drain on middle drive cover.

These are both almost at the mid line of the middle drive cover, left rear side of motor.

Gary

Posted

I have removed the bottom bolt from the Middle drive cover before at oil change time to make sure I got all the oil out.This was talked about years ago in the old VTS. I decided that for myself there was so little oil that came out (About 2 table spoons full) that it wasn't worth it. so I no longer worry about it.I did not know about the other bolt.Always new things to learn and try.

Posted
Did you use a new crush washer that I think is under that plug?

 

I referred to bolt as a 14mm in error, it is a 17mm head. 12mm I.D. copper crush washer under it.

 

Not at the putting back together stage. Sandblasting block & heads in preparation for powder coating. Time consuming, sand blaster pulls 60 gallon air tank down fast. And the paint & clear coat is not easy to get off.

 

Gary

Posted
No chemical strippers that would do the job ? :think:

 

Battery acid had ran down right side of block. This need an aggressive clean up to look good after coating.

 

Strippers work good on most things, but block and head have many pockets that are difficult to clean out well enough for powder coating.

 

Even after chemical treatment, I glass bead everything before poder coat. Sand is much core aggressive, but it does clean up parts well.

 

Gary

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

IMO-That large bolt is not worth the time hassle to do. So I do the transfer case cover,,,remove allen screw at 6 o'clock should be done every oil change. FYI- the copper washer on mine has never leaked, only replaced once in the last 80k. Should be torqued to 85 in/lbs. Don't over torque this. you will not like yourself.

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