djh3 Posted January 7, 2013 Author #26 Posted January 7, 2013 Actually I'm pretty impressed with the ones I found on e-bay there yesterday. First they are "made in USA". Also I got a note back about a question I had on them today on a Sun. The seller tels me the mount is available in single wire or dual wire and also a chrome base is available. I have sent back a couple questions about the colored VS clear lens. Like is the colored ones as brite or visaversa. I'm thinking I'm going to install them up front as running/turn, swap out the ones I worked so hard on @ the rear that are now just running lights and installing a couple more red ones on the back as running/turn maybe somewhere on the chrome piece the fender mounts too. They measure aprox 1.25"x 3.75".
djh3 Posted January 8, 2013 Author #27 Posted January 8, 2013 Well I ordered the resistors and diodes and lights today. I decided to go with the "clear" lens options all the way around with chrome bases for a little different look. All I need to do now id decide what wire I'm going to use. I know 18ga is over kill 20 is too I would think. I found some 24ga that should be more than ample for this I would think. Its actually speaker wire, but I like that it is modled together so you dont have to try to hide 2 wires actually. If I found it in black that would be even better.
djh3 Posted January 9, 2013 Author #28 Posted January 9, 2013 Currently I have LED bulbs in the rear turn signal housing. Not the big $$ ones the but ones that look sort of like real bulbs. Anyways I currently have the hyper flash thing as I have not installed the load goober things. I'm guessing I need to put standard type bulbas back in the turn signals. Or will I get enough draw from 4 additional LED marker type lights to make the flasher be correct. I'm guessing not as they are only like .06 draw for a total of .36 with all 6 lights.
bongobobny Posted January 9, 2013 #29 Posted January 9, 2013 No, unfortunately the regular incadescent bulbs draw a lot more current than that...
Pegasus1300 Posted January 9, 2013 #30 Posted January 9, 2013 In their motorcycle cataloge JC Whitney has replacement lights for those of you who are trying to make their reflectors into running lights/turnsignals.As I remember they have in both red and amber and are the same size as an RSV/RSTD reflector.
djh3 Posted January 9, 2013 Author #31 Posted January 9, 2013 OK rear signals back to standard bulbs. I am thinking though about getting a pair of regular 1156 bulbs and trying to paint them red or majick marker the bulbs to red, then all the rear lights will be red. Signals in rear dont have to be red. Well they aint on my pick up or the wifes car.
djh3 Posted January 12, 2013 Author #32 Posted January 12, 2013 OK my diodes and resistors showed up today, lights were yesterday. I am REALLY going to try to remember to take some pics and document this mod and then if its worth it I may write it up. Kind of depends on how I feel about it when I'm done I guess. I do have a question on making up the wires with the resistors/diodes. The wires to them are a tad long I think, both are about 3.5" long. I can trim them up some cant I? Like make over all length around 2" and solder everything up? The "magic" is all in the round barrell looking thing aint it? Oh and my diodes I ohm'd out to figure out flow/direction. I had to have the red lead on the side without the silver stripe, so I'm guessing the power in side needs to be the same? Power in away from stripe, power out to light on stripe side.
saddlebum Posted January 12, 2013 #33 Posted January 12, 2013 OK my diodes and resistors showed up today, lights were yesterday. I am REALLY going to try to remember to take some pics and document this mod and then if its worth it I may write it up. Kind of depends on how I feel about it when I'm done I guess. I do have a question on making up the wires with the resistors/diodes. The wires to them are a tad long I think, both are about 3.5" long. I can trim them up some cant I? Like make over all length around 2" and solder everything up? The "magic" is all in the round barrell looking thing aint it? Oh and my diodes I ohm'd out to figure out flow/direction. I had to have the red lead on the side without the silver stripe, so I'm guessing the power in side needs to be the same? Power in away from stripe, power out to light on stripe side. You can make them as short as you like. just make sure you clamd something like small neeble nose pliers or foceps on the leads between the resistor or diode and the joint you are soldering. This will help prevent heat damage to the component.
djh3 Posted January 12, 2013 Author #34 Posted January 12, 2013 Ah yea I had totaly forgot about using something on there to heatsink. ThanksNo forcepts but I have a small pair of needle nose vise grips and some thin alum strips of scrap.
bongobobny Posted January 12, 2013 #35 Posted January 12, 2013 Doides, yup, the stripe goes to the bulbs...
djh3 Posted January 15, 2013 Author #37 Posted January 15, 2013 Worked on this project a little today. I soldered together one circuit (which I think is correct) and got nothing. With just running lights on I get something like 10.9 volts. Signals on no reading. But connecting the LED light I got nothing. Checked a couple of things, double checked ground. Of course I put shrink sleve over everything so I'll have to cut all that off to go backwards checking. I had , had enough and back was starting to get to me so I decided to just call it a night.
Flyinfool Posted January 15, 2013 #38 Posted January 15, 2013 You said you were going to take pics to document this project. Did you take a pic before you covered it all up in shrink wrap? Maybe we can spot something amiss.
djh3 Posted January 15, 2013 Author #39 Posted January 15, 2013 No I soldered wire onto the back of connectors going out to rear fender in battery area that I got an indication were the turn signal wires. A brown and green. But wont make light flash. Also the "power" from the running lights will not make the light come on. So I took straight power feed, put on of the reisestors on it then connected the light. Nothing, so I would have to guess it is not allowing enough power thru to light it. I put a jumper feed down by the flasher unit and can get the light to work with signal. Also went all the way back to rear turn signal, pulled bulb and touched contacts and it works as a flash there. Only thing I can think of is maybe not enough signal comming thru where I picked it up under seat area. I dunno
bongobobny Posted January 15, 2013 #40 Posted January 15, 2013 What value resistor are you using??? The turn signal should not have a resistor. The stripe side of the diode should be going to the light...
bongobobny Posted January 15, 2013 #41 Posted January 15, 2013 PS What colors are the wires from the LED light?? If they are white and black, the WHITE wire is ground and the black is power...
djh3 Posted January 15, 2013 Author #42 Posted January 15, 2013 Single wire lite, right now I have a wire screwed to the ground strap. If I hook light straight to power it works. I check power at battery and I have like 12.95v, put the resistor on the battery and check output its @ 12.46 or so, connect light------nothing. The spec on the light say 12v +- 2v, but obviously that aint working. Stripes for diodes are towards bulb side. I get readings at output points of wires so that tells me I have those in right. Really odd. Off to the shack for some buddy connectors to put over on the flasher unit. Nothing worth taking pics of yet. Only my hair laying on the floor from pulling it out. 330K ohm resitor 1/2w resistor is in what should be the running/tail light circuit.
Flyinfool Posted January 15, 2013 #43 Posted January 15, 2013 (edited) Single wire lite, right now I have a wire screwed to the ground strap. If I hook light straight to power it works. I check power at battery and I have like 12.95v, put the resistor on the battery and check output its @ 12.46 or so, connect light------nothing. The spec on the light say 12v +- 2v, but obviously that aint working. Stripes for diodes are towards bulb side. I get readings at output points of wires so that tells me I have those in right. Really odd. Off to the shack for some buddy connectors to put over on the flasher unit. Nothing worth taking pics of yet. Only my hair laying on the floor from pulling it out. 330K ohm resitor 1/2w resistor is in what should be the running/tail light circuit. There is you problem. 330K is way to much (330K means 330,000 ohm). It should be 330 ohm resistor. No K and no M after the 330. As was described in the "Original Flasher Modification" thread. There are colored bands on the resistor what are all of the colors on the resistor you are using? The first two bands should be Orange. Edited January 15, 2013 by Flyinfool
djh3 Posted January 15, 2013 Author #44 Posted January 15, 2013 Sumnabeach htese are what I ordered. Looks to be the bands are 2 red a yellow and then another red. Could be an orange a red a yellow and red. And I just got back from RS. I bought a trimmer pot thinking maybe I could use that. Fixed a messed up fuel gauge reading with one before as it let me adjust the ohm to where I wanted it. Now if I can figure out how to wire it to make it work. Also bought a pkg of 47 ohm resistors like 5 to a pack. NTE 1W433-10 - Resistor-1W 330K Ohm 2%
Flyinfool Posted January 15, 2013 #45 Posted January 15, 2013 OK Red Red Yellow would be 220,000 (220K) ohm Orange red yellow would be 320,000 (320K) ohm I'm guessing that yours are Orange orange yellow for 330,000 (330K) ohm You should have orange orange brown, the last band can be any color for this application. RS should have the 330 ohm resistors, good excuse for another ride...... What value trimmer pot did you get? The 47ohm resistors will function, but there will be only a very small difference in brightness. Good thing resistors are cheap.
M61A1MECH Posted January 15, 2013 #46 Posted January 15, 2013 djh3 One of my aux harnesses could be a help to you maybe, check out my listing on the classified section under member vendors. Have Venture harnesses in stock ready to ship.
djh3 Posted January 15, 2013 Author #47 Posted January 15, 2013 1K pot. Got it turned down to 328.x and light works. Cant ride everything is torn a part. Option one solder it up and use it or option B use the pot for the turn signal LED mod so they dont flash so fast.
bongobobny Posted January 15, 2013 #48 Posted January 15, 2013 Yup!! There's your problem!!! 330 ohms is Orange Orange Brown for first 3 markers. 330,000 ohms is waaaay too much resistance! OK now for today's class... First, the resistor color code: 1 = Black 2 = Brown 3 = Red 4 = Orange 5 = Yellow 6 = Green 7 = Blue 8 = Violet 9 = Gray 0 = White To remember this, Bad Boys Rape Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly. First letter of each word relates to the color. To read the "code", the first color is the actual number as is the second color. The 3rd color is the multiplier or number of zeros following the first two numbers. The other bands are for tolerance, silver is 10% +/-, Gold is 5%, etc, other bands can be for wattage or temperature coefficient and other technical junk you don't need to worry about. Wattage rating is often the physical size, which brings us top the 2nd part of today's lesson, Ohm's law, etc. I = Current or amps E = Electromotive Force, or Volts R = Resistance in ohms Volts is a electrical "pressure" or force Current is a rate of electrical flow or the number of electrons that physically pass a point in the wire per second. Basic ohms law, E = IR, I = E/R, and R = E/I. With the same voltage, the more the resistance, the less the current in a completed circuit. If the circuit is not complete, you can put one end of a bazillion ohm resistor on a battery and until you put the other end of the resistor on the other end of the resistor on the other battery terminal there will be no current flow, therefore with a voltmeter you will read the full battery voltage between the unconnected end of the resistor and the other battery terminal because there is no current flow which means no voltage drop across the resistor (no IR drop across the resistor). Watts is actual power or load across the supply. P (Watts) = IE. With a constant voltage, the more current you draw (also the smaller the resistance) the more power you use. Now seeing as the average LED draws around 20 milliamps give or take (milliamp is 1/1000 of an amp) then the power draw is going to be 0.02 x 12 or 0.24 watts. Double that for a safety margin and a 1/2 watt resistor should suffice...
djh3 Posted January 15, 2013 Author #49 Posted January 15, 2013 Well for me the only "law" thats working is Murpy's. I can pick up a turn signal back at the rear light, but how come there is no signal right at the flasher unit? Only signal "flash" I get is on the brown white wire and it dont matter which one is one it flashes. I tried the connector under the seat by battery "5 pin square" that has the tail lights running with it but I get no flash. It goes back thru the fender so I fugure this has to be the harness with all the lights for the rear.
djh3 Posted January 15, 2013 Author #50 Posted January 15, 2013 I dont know what the hay is going on. Now all is good and I have signals from the 5 pin connector. Beats me. So been trying to take some pics along the way. Got like one side almost ready to mount lights. Tired of bending over and stooping for now so I am taking a break. Sure hope this looks decent when I get done. lol Thanks a bunch to Flyinfool and bongobobny for thier input. Without it I would have probably been struck down by a lightning bolt by now.
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