Installing factory passing lamps

[MAINEAC]

I tried wiring them like Yamaha said and blew the main fuse. now I have them wired into the cig lighter like someone suggested here and no problems.

 

I do have a question about brightness though. Mine appear to be dimmer than they should be. I have the sylvania headlight bulb in the bike and it seems to be much brighter than the passing lamps. Is this because it's run thru the cig lighter instead of battery/relay power or are they just dim?

 

If you didn't use a relay that's your problem.. The power outlet is a 5 AMP circuit I believe.. Man I'm surprised they even work off that circuit.. I blew that fuse using a little air compressor.. Do yourself a favor and run a relay...

 

But normally the "sealed beam" RSV passing lamps are not that bright... That's why I got the Roadliner Passing Lamps that use a H3 replacable bulb. .. But I screwed those up by overtightening the light ring and when I hit a bump both lenses cracked... I just ordered these off ebay for $68.45 shipped.

 

http://i20.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/a6/b1/4f30_1.JPG

[N3FOL]

I am wondering why they are called 'Passing Lamps' instead of just saying 'Light Bar'?

 

I also have the lamps installed and curious about what kind of bulb does it use. I'd rather keep a spare or two in the garage just in case they burn out.

[KiteSquid]

I am wondering why they are called 'Passing Lamps' instead of just saying 'Light Bar'?

Passing lamps are a Department of Transportation definition of the location, beam pattern and power consumption.

 

This differentiates them from Headlights, driving lights, fog lights, spot lights and other types.

 

 

 

 

I also have the lamps installed and curious about what kind of bulb does it use. I'd rather keep a spare or two in the garage just in case they burn out.

 

It depends on the lamps you bought, they either take a H3 bulb or a PAR36 sealed beam lamp.

 

The H-3 bulbs fit in Yamaha passing lamps STR-4NK35-10-01

 

PAR36 bulbs fit in Yamaha passing lamps STR-4NK35-10-00

 

Either lamp set will fit on the Royal Star Tour Deluxe or the 2nd Gen Royal Star Venture passing Lamp mounts.

 

 

There are few H-3 bulbs on the market.... there are MANY PAR36 bulbs on the market, depending on beam shape and wattage.

 

Here are some of my choices for PAR36 Lamps made by Halco (purchase on the internet for about $8 per bulb plus shipping)

 

Passing beam shape, 12 degrees wide by 12 degrees tall

 

50 Watt 107782

35 Watt 107794

 

 

Driving beam shape, 5 degrees wide by 5 degrees tall

 

50 Watt 107784

35 Watt 107796

 

These bulbs outperform MOST other PAR-36 bulbs on the market, But I am looking for some HIR series PAR36 lamps to come on the market......

Edited January 19, 2009 by KiteSquid

[GeorgeS]

The Schematic Diagram that " FreeBird " posted on this link, Is the Right Way to do it !! For Lights, or Horns. If anybody is confused, use that schematic.

 

Yamaha's stock wireing for the Horns, is Pathetic!!! from an electricians standpoint. The first time I saw that schematic, I could not believe what I was looking at. !!!

 

Couple other points,

 

Always use Stranded Wire.

Always, after, applying the crimped Stud to wire end, SOLDER IT IN PLACE .

and cover with Heat Shrink tubeing.

 

Do NOT, use Crimp ON Splice's!!! Use a Western Uniion Splice, and solder, and apply a double layer of Shrink tubeing. ( I know, everbody, don't agree with this, just trust me ! ) ( they have been outlawed for use in wireing repairs on all AirCraft, about 10 years ago, and there are good reasons )

 

If in doubt as to wire size, use #16 Stranded, its large enough for ANY wireing job on Any Motorcycle. ( for added accessories , that is. )

 

Also, if you buy a Switch, buy a good one!! Not the Cheap Plastic Units.

 

And " BOSH " makes the best Relays ( again, don't waste money on junk )

[MAINEAC]

I am wondering why they are called 'Passing Lamps' instead of just saying 'Light Bar'?

 

I also have the lamps installed and curious about what kind of bulb does it use. I'd rather keep a spare or two in the garage just in case they burn out.

 

I guess we're resurecting an old post... Lemme see if I can clear it up for you... If you have the stock RSV passing lamps you most likely have a "sealed beam" unit where the Bezel and bulb are a unit like these...

 

http://www.jcl-tech.dk/images/Nuffieldpics/4.0forlygte.jpg

 

I now have an aftermarket Adjure wannabe tri-bar lights that use a H-3 bulb that is separate from the bezel... Like these...

 

http://www.vtwinshop.co.uk/acatalog/2149-metric.jpg

 

These bezels use a replacable H-3 bulb like this...

http://www.fishingessentials.co.nz/images/AG100.jpg

[Al Bates]

Hope this helps

[SilvrT]

 

 

I now have an aftermarket Adjure wannabe tri-bar lights that use a H-3 bulb that is separate from the bezel... Like these...

 

http://www.vtwinshop.co.uk/acatalog/2149-metric.jpg

 

 

Do you (or does anyone) happen to have a pic of some sort that shows the illumination pattern for these and if possible, how that compares to the illumnation pattern of actual "driving lamps" (since these lights are supposedly "passing lamps" and are supposed to be on only when the low beams are on).

[N3FOL]

Passing lamps are a Department of Transportation definition of the location, beam pattern and power consumption.

 

This differentiates them from Headlights, driving lights, fog lights, spot lights and other types.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It depends on the lamps you bought, they either take a H3 bulb or a PAR36 sealed beam lamp.

 

The H-3 bulbs fit in Yamaha passing lamps STR-4NK35-10-01

 

PAR36 bulbs fit in Yamaha passing lamps STR-4NK35-10-00

 

Either lamp set will fit on the Royal Star Tour Deluxe or the 2nd Gen Royal Star Venture passing Lamp mounts.

 

 

There are few H-3 bulbs on the market.... there are MANY PAR36 bulbs on the market, depending on beam shape and wattage.

 

Here are some of my choices for PAR36 Lamps made by Halco (purchase on the internet for about $8 per bulb plus shipping)

 

Passing beam shape, 12 degrees wide by 12 degrees tall

 

50 Watt 107782

35 Watt 107794

 

 

Driving beam shape, 5 degrees wide by 5 degrees tall

 

50 Watt 107784

35 Watt 107796

 

These bulbs outperform MOST other PAR-36 bulbs on the market, But I am looking for some HIR series PAR36 lamps to come on the market......

 

Thanks for your input KiteSquid. Now that makes sense to me on the 'passing lamp' terminology. I will also take note of the 2 choices of bulbs to get, however, I am a little bit hesitant to open the case and determine what type of bulb it is. I am hoping it would be an H3 bulb and 35W so that may be easier to get. I had a light bar on my Vulcan and it used an H3 25W bulb and was not readily available locally...only online.

 

As I was typing this message, I took a quick peak inside the lamp housing and it did not look like an H3 bulb. I've searched on Google and the PAR36 bulb appears to be a sealed beam type lamp. My bulb has two stems and extends to the back of the lamp housing (as I see through from the outside). Any ideas what kind of bulb it is? I am hesitant to open it up and this might be a cause for a premature failure of my bulb by accidentally touching it.

[MAINEAC]

Do you (or does anyone) happen to have a pic of some sort that shows the illumination pattern for these and if possible, how that compares to the illumnation pattern of actual "driving lamps" (since these lights are supposedly "passing lamps" and are supposed to be on only when the low beams are on).

Those in the pics I posted aren't mine but some pics I got off google to make the point... I don't know what the specs on mine are other than I'm running the 55W H-3 bulbs and they do light up the side of the road real nice and give me a fighting chance with Moose and Deer.. Mine work on Hi and Lo Beam and also make me more noticeable in the daytime as well..

 

Maine is the most heavily forested state in the country at 89% forest and we have all kinds of Crittahs in them woods.... The passing lamps were the best upgrade I've done to my RSV along with my PIAA headlight bulb..

[KiteSquid]

Thanks for your input KiteSquid.

 

No problem... I have bean on the fence if I should buy the PAR36 or H3 type passing lamp from Yamaha, as they both cost the same, but with the PAR36 I have more choices as to wattage and beam patterns than the H3 type, BUT I can get H3 bulbs to match the color of the H4 bulb in my headlamp......... I am leaning to the PAR36 type.

 

Now that makes sense to me on the 'passing lamp' terminology. I will also take note of the 2 choices of bulbs to get, however, I am a little bit hesitant to open the case and determine what type of bulb it is. I am hoping it would be an H3 bulb and 35W so that may be easier to get. I had a light bar on my Vulcan and it used an H3 25W bulb and was not readily available locally...only online.

 

Sadly most auto parts, and motorcycle parts stores don't carry all parts...... a low watt H3 would be smart to have a few spares on hand, one on the bike!!!!!

 

As I was typing this message, I took a quick peak inside the lamp housing and it did not look like an H3 bulb. I've searched on Google and the PAR36 bulb appears to be a sealed beam type lamp. My bulb has two stems and extends to the back of the lamp housing (as I see through from the outside). Any ideas what kind of bulb it is? I am hesitant to open it up and this might be a cause for a premature failure of my bulb by accidentally touching it.

 

If it does not look like the bulb is separate from the reflector than it is a sealed beam. If it is about 4" in diameter, it is a PAR36 style bulb.

 

Don't worry about removing it and handling the lamp, as your bike vibrates as it goes down the road and it gets wet when you ride in the rain..... If it is a H3 bulb, just make sure you don't get any oil from your fingerprints on the bulb itself. Wipe with some alcohol and a lint free paper like a coffee filter, to remove any oil... or the bulb will fail!!!!

 

Once you remove it, look at the back to see if the bulb is separate from the lamp, or if it is one piece.

 

 

Now for something new...... I have found the a few PAR36 Lamps that have TWO filaments in them...... possibly a passing/driving lamp in one bulb...... gotta do some more research!!!!!!!

 

They might be worth a look..... but would require routing another wire for the second filament.....

[MAINEAC]

I have bean on the fence if I should buy the PAR36 or H3 type passing lamp from Yamaha, as they both cost the same, but with the PAR36 I have more choices as to wattage and beam patterns than the H3 type, BUT I can get H3 bulbs to match the color of the H4 bulb in my headlamp......... I am leaning to the PAR36 type.

You seem like you know what you're talking about but I think you have this backwards... PAR36 SHMAR 36... We're talking Sealed Beams right? With all the aftermarket bezels out there I think the H-3 type lights probably have 4 to 5 times more options than the sealed beams... Just guessin but I think I'm right...

[KiteSquid]

Yes, we are talking sealed beams.

 

I cannot find a reference to a SHMAR 36 lamp on the Internet or in any of the lamps catalogs I have: GE, Halco, Sylvania and Ushio. Do you have a URL for hte SHMAR 36?

 

Click HERE for a good explanation of what a PAR36 lamp is.

 

The pertinent quote is

You can tell what kind of PAR lamp you have by measuring the distance across the widest point of the bulb. The number after 'PAR' represents the number of eighths of an inch the bulb diameter is. Therefore, PAR36 lamps are 4 1/2 inches across.

 

On the H3 lamps, you have to buy a new housing to change the beam shape. There are a few colors and wattage choices of H3 bulbs in production by several manufactures, but no where near the choices of PAR36 lamps. Most H3 bubls are 50 watt and higher, which takes up most of the excess power generating capacity of our bikes, with the wimmpy charging system when compared to a GoldWing...

 

Now if someone would make a PAR36 size housing that would accept a H4 or other dual focal point/filament lamp. I would be happy!!!!!!!! but the power required would probably stop me from installing them...

Edited January 20, 2009 by KiteSquid

[N3FOL]

Mine does not really look like H3's from the outside instead it has 2 legs. It also does not look like a sealed beam for it has a phillips screw at the bottom to open the housing. I will try to take a pic once I open the housing this afternoon or tonight.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

:detective:I want to install the factory passing lamps but wish to get them off the ignition switch. Relays have been mentioned and I wanted to know why a relay. Couldn't you wire direct to the accessory post and switch them as intended beside the 12 volt plug? Could some one go over the wiring from the start.

 

The original question about the purpose of the relay seems to have been missed. The reason a relay is used, is so that ALL the current that the aux bulbs use is directed AROUND the high-low beam switch AND the ignition switch. This effectively increases the current availible to the aux lamps and they end up being a few percent brighter, and if the headlight bulb fails, the aux lights will remain on.

 

Also, using a relay that is triggered off the high or low beam circuit will then shut those auxiliary lamps off when you switch off the ignition. If you just run a wire to the accessory terminal with an inline switch, its possible that you might leave the lights on someday and kill your battery.

 

There is no downside, other than the extra couple of steps involved in the installation. If you can afford a bike and these extra lamps, then you can afford the few extra dollars for the relay.

Edited January 21, 2009 by tx2sturgis

[MAINEAC]

The "housing" you are refering to is what I was calling the bezel... The bezel is what gives the lamps their pattern not the bulb... And there are all kinds of bezels... diamond cut, ice, tri-bar, iron cross, etc.. They even have bevels with skulls in them... I might go for that to go with my theme... My Bro has par36s and parked next to my bike his look yellow and mine are bright white... BTW I have the Buckeye Performance higher output stator on my bike... But I also had the 55w H-3s for 2 years with the old stator until it burned up at 58,000 miles.