Wanting to learn about RSV

[Barrycuda]

* this post is also on 2nd gen.venture forum , bc I didn't see THIS forum when I posted, MY BAD *

 

Hello everyone

I am interested in learning more about my 2003 venture which was recently purchased. I have ridden a total of 30 miles on it, but has 24xxx. I am confused and concerned about things such as the lowering kit, how it's on and any advice on what to look for. Was there any adjustments on the front end? Tires, brakes, electrical etc. the shop says all is good, but I feel weird not knowing much. I live in spring hill, and some that were on the left coast have expired memberships. I am willing to ride down and meet with anyone who is available and willing to show this newbie about RSV. Perhaps anyone in the Tampa / St. Pete/, or anyone near hillsborough, pasco, Hernando, citrus, counties. Heck, I will even trek to Ocala.

There are some nice roads by me and some nice little beaches and bars / eateries if some want an excuse to ride this way

I would appreciate all input and your time as well. No rush and perhaps there may be more free time after the holidays. I am open to suggestions. Thank you all.

Barrycuda.

[Wrench]

If you plan on doing most of your own work, then download a service manual and get acquainted with it. Most everything else you'll need can be found here, just ask. Congrats on the "new" ride!!

[Pegasus1300]

I am confused.Did the people you bought it from tell you it had been lowered?Or are you just curious as to if it had been?Or did you need to lower it? Did you get an owners manual with the bike.They are available online but I don't have the address offhand.Someone here will chime in with it.

The only front fork adj is to add or remove air pressure. I would stay below 7-8 lbs and use a zero loss gage to check it and a hand suspension pump to fill it.Do not use an air compressor or a gas station hose.The rear is also air adj but will take much more.I ran mine around 45 lbd but I am a big boy.Again use a hand pump and zero loss gage.Harley dealers usually have the pumps on hand for a reasonable price and they have a built in gage.

There is a lot information in the tech pages you can check out also.Welcome to this mad house and I hope you have many wonderful miles on that RSV.

[Barrycuda]

Thanks for the reply and sorry for YOUR confusion. The bike was already lowered using barons kit. Allegedly 1.5 inches. Previous owner was short as I am, but he had way more gut and girth. My feet do touch the. Round and that was important as I usually ride solo ( not always by choice). Great idea on pump.

Everyone has been extremely friendly and helpful. I do not have any interest at the moment in doing any of the tech work myself, but also do not wanna be raked over the coals by the shop. Will continue to post and read the discussions, although some of my questions and such are on older posts pushing 3-4 years. Thanks again

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am confused.Did the people you bought it from tell you it had been lowered?Or are you just curious as to if it had been?Or did you need to lower it? Did you get an owners manual with the bike.They are available online but I don't have the address offhand.Someone here will chime in with it.

The only front fork adj is to add or remove air pressure. I would stay below 7-8 lbs and use a zero loss gage to check it and a hand suspension pump to fill it.Do not use an air compressor or a gas station hose.The rear is also air adj but will take much more.I ran mine around 45 lbd but I am a big boy.Again use a hand pump and zero loss gage.Harley dealers usually have the pumps on hand for a reasonable price and they have a built in gage.

There is a lot information in the tech pages you can check out also.Welcome to this mad house and I hope you have many wonderful miles on that RSV.

[Barrycuda]

Appreciate the time you took to reply. With a name like WRENCH, there is little doubt you are mechanically inclined. I on the other hand can do very little which is why I not only ride the 2 bikes I have, but joined the forum to make sure I am doing all I can to keep the machine running well. Last thing I want or need is to be stranded in bum f*ck Egypt not knowing how to get it rolling again.

 

 

 

If you plan on doing most of your own work, then download a service manual and get acquainted with it. Most everything else you'll need can be found here, just ask. Congrats on the "new" ride!!

[Freebird]

Actually, there are a a lot of people that have lowered the front of the RSV. It is simple to do and if the previous owner lowered the rear, he may well have lowered the front also. What people do is simply loosen the triple tree clamps and slide the fork tubes further up. I don't remember the exact amount that they can be lowered but I'm thinking that they can be slid up about an inch or so.

 

It should be easy to tell if it was done or not. I'm not home to look at mine but I THINK the top of the fork tubes are almost flush with the top of the triple tree. They may come through about a 1/4". If yours are a lot higher than that in the triple tree then the front has been lowered. Somebody here needs to verify my thoughts on the measurements though because I won't be home until Friday to look.

 

Now these bikes sit a little lower in the rear from the factory. A lot of us have installed what is called "leveling links" that actually raise the rear of the bikes about an inch therefore "leveling" the bikes. Most of us agree that this improves handling a lot. Now if yours has been lowered only in the rear then that is opposite of what we do to improve handling. Since you need the bike lowered and the back has already been lowered, I would recommend lowering the front also to at least get it back to how it sat from the factory.

[Phoneman1981]

Welcome to this wonderful site. Thanks to others you will learn alot about your bike and the most common modifications in a short amount of time. It has helped me a lot. I have made many friends here. This site makes owning a bike so much more fun.

[Mike G in SC]

You can lower the front up to 1 1/2" into the tripple tree.

This will give you more bang for your buck than lowering the rear.

It's better for steering. (Yeah, I know, yours is already lowered in the rear.)

People do the rear cause there is a kit and it's quicker, fewer things to take apart and put back together correctly.

But as Don said, this gives a longer rake to the front and poorer steering.

I did not want to do the front cause you need to tear down the fairing,,,,, and put it back together CORRECTLY. I don't have that skill.

 

So, I found someone on this forum to do it. Below is a close up picture of mine, lowered 1 1/2 in the front. "Wild Bill" in the member/vendor classifieds can do this for a very reasonable fee if you want to travel to just above Charlotte, NC.

 

But, anyhow here is the picture Don was talking about. If yours had not been done the tube will be pretty flush with the tripple tree.

 

After Wild Bill lowered my front, I ended up going back to the stock links in the rear.

I was scraping pipes at full load. So now I am at about the same angle as the "Leveling Links" put you,,,, just lower. My 29" inseam feet are still good.

(So, if the front were done first,,, little need to lower the rear.)

 

Ask more as needed.

 

PS: Yes, the Barons rear kit lowers it 1 1/2" in the rear. If that is more than you want (IE dragging pipes, you can have a fab shop make some links that are half way between the barons and stock length. I did that on my bikes before lowering the front. That dropped it about 3/4". Someone on this forum said for each 1/4" you change those rear links, you raise/lower the rear 1". (But if you bought used from a dealer, not likely they included the stock links.)

The Barons kit has two main parts: new pair of links to lower it and a large bracket that allows relocation of the rear brake calliper. You will notice from the right side of your bike, you can see the calliper hanging down "below" the swing arm on a lowered bike, above on a non-lowered.

If you do have the stock links want to raise the rear back up you simply need to swap out the links (20 min). The calliper can stay where it is.

Edited December 11, 2012 by Mike G in SC

[StarFan]

Be very careful when lowering the front regarding how far you go. Anything more than 1 1/2 inch can result in damage to your front fender. Then this can happen if you loose the air in the forks (see picture).

This damage is on a bike I bought from the insurance company. The forks have been lowered and the previous owner told me that he rode hard over a big bump in the road, and the result was that the driving light bracket or some bolts there under hit the fender. I am abroad and can not have a look at this now so the description is from the previous owner, that is, what happened and what hit the fender.

When I get back home I will have a look and measure how far up the tripple tree the forks are, the air pressure in the forks as well as what part did actually hit the fender.

 

Will post the result in this thread.

[Mike G in SC]

Be very careful when lowering the front regarding how far you go. Anything more than 1 1/2 inch can result in damage to your front fender. Then this can happen if you loose the air in the forks (see picture).

 

Will post the result in this thread.

 

I agree with that. Mine are exactly 1 1/2" and I have banged a few times at full load. Probably 1" is better. Or, Barrons does sell front components that would stiffen the front.

[Barrycuda]

I appreciate all those who were able to add valuable information. I will see how she rides and go from there. I haven't even had the bike long enough to see and just had it returned from an oil change. As of now , with the changes as they are, I can touch the ground with flat feet. I have not had the pleasure of riding 2 up and with gear. Heck, right now riding 1 up has been tough with my current schedule . Any and all pics regarding the triple tree, maybe a stock vs.modified wold help me see better. Also, I realize I am about to open 400 Pandora's boxes, ( apologies in advance) but most of you guys/gals run synthetic oil. I was told by my shop here in hot Florida that regular oil, if changed at 2500-3000k intervals will be sufficient. And pros and or cons to switching or staying. Ultimately it's my decision what I ask the shop to do, but want more scientific evidence or feedback from those who really know. I just want to RIDE the bike, not spend forever over thinking or trying to get the perfect "set up". Whew....I need an aspirin

[playboy]

I understand your wanting to learn about your bike as you should. BUT

 

first you need some time in the saddle and figure out what the bike is telling you. For instance how does handle for you does the front feel heavy or more like extra heavy at slow speeds and stops. We all know that is heavy or do you like the way it handles already. These things would let us know more of how to help you if you are not happy with it's handling.

 

 

As far as oil again listen to what the bike likes. Does it have the dreaded clutch wine at certain speeds. I have noticed with some oils mine was unbearable and others much quieter. What ever oil you put in it be sure it doesn't have the friction modifiers or oil specifically compatible with a wet clutch.

 

So get out and ride first chance you get and put some miles on her.

[djh3]

Barry if you are taking it to a shop for oil changes I would sure in the heck hope they were using a "motorcycle" spec oil. I misunderstood that when you and I PM'd back and forth. I thought you were going to do some of this. I lowered the front of mine by the tripple tree methiod. Mine is like 3/4-7/8 range. I am thinking about maybe going the full 1". I think I have a steering bearing a tad loose and need to tighten it up, so when I do that being it will be close to apart enough I'll do it then.

[Barrycuda]

You are correct playboy. I do need to get some flight time with my ride and to see how she feels and learn the nuances of the bike and ahold have more info to go with. Guess I am just excited

[Barrycuda]

I guess at some point I will do things such as oil changes etc. I do them now on the kawi... But when it comes to lowering suspension, I'd rather be around or have someone with WAAAY more knowledge hen I do, hence joining the forum and reaching out at the expense of looking foolish or just not involved in my own bikes care. Where I go, they have taken excellent care if my kawi and expect upfront no BS with this one. I just wanna know things. After some time out and about, being better acquainted should help out as well.

 

 

Barry if you are taking it to a shop for oil changes I would sure in the heck hope they were using a "motorcycle" spec oil. I misunderstood that when you and I PM'd back and forth. I thought you were going to do some of this. I lowered the front of mine by the tripple tree methiod. Mine is like 3/4-7/8 range. I am thinking about maybe going the full 1". I think I have a steering bearing a tad loose and need to tighten it up, so when I do that being it will be close to apart enough I'll do it then.

[playboy]

Whether you do your own maint. or have the dealer do it or another trusted shop doesn't matter. There is no stupid questions and you don't look foolish for asking about your bike. The folks here are great to help out and may ask some questions of you about your bike not to make you feel foolish but so they don't make a fool out themselves for giving you some bad information. Glad your excited about it if you weren't then why bother.

[Wrench]

Once you get that "seat of the pants" feel then you will love this bike. The only problem I have with them is that they ARE a handfull in a tight parking lot, but when you let 'em out to run,,,,,,, OH MY!! You don't have to be too mechanically inclined for the manual to make sense. If you "feel" something that you think might not be quite right, then use it as a reference to find out how that particular area works, I think you'll be surprised how easy that is. If you use an independent shop it also helps to have one on hand for them. Looks like you're only about an hour from my son over in Clermont, we're planning on coming down sometime after the first of the year to visit them, maybe we can meet up and see how you're adjusting to the new ride. Be safe,,,,

[Barrycuda]

True on all fronts. I would love to be able to get a chance to meet up and do some riding with you guys. It has been on my mind as well regarding the parking in tight spots, in a crowd and or on an incline. If I am riding to an event, I'd like to be able to park the bike w confidence. Any tips,or advice ( other then practice, which I will be doing ). Worse then looking bad, is damaging my bike and possibly someone else's. That, makes for a bad day.

 

 

 

Once you get that "seat of the pants" feel then you will love this bike. The only problem I have with them is that they ARE a handfull in a tight parking lot, but when you let 'em out to run,,,,,,, OH MY!! You don't have to be too mechanically inclined for the manual to make sense. If you "feel" something that you think might not be quite right, then use it as a reference to find out how that particular area works, I think you'll be surprised how easy that is. If you use an independent shop it also helps to have one on hand for them. Looks like you're only about an hour from my son over in Clermont, we're planning on coming down sometime after the first of the year to visit them, maybe we can meet up and see how you're adjusting to the new ride. Be safe,,,,

[etcswjoe]

True on all fronts. I would love to be able to get a chance to meet up and do some riding with you guys. It has been on my mind as well regarding the parking in tight spots, in a crowd and or on an incline. If I am riding to an event, I'd like to be able to park the bike w confidence. Any tips,or advice ( other then practice, which I will be doing ). Worse then looking bad, is damaging my bike and possibly someone else's. That, makes for a bad day.

 

 

I took the Motorcycle Safety Course on my RSV 2 weeks after I bought it, after that I had no issuses handling it at slow speeds.

[playboy]

True on all fronts. I would love to be able to get a chance to meet up and do some riding with you guys. It has been on my mind as well regarding the parking in tight spots, in a crowd and or on an incline. If I am riding to an event, I'd like to be able to park the bike w confidence. Any tips,or advice ( other then practice, which I will be doing ). Worse then looking bad, is damaging my bike and possibly someone else's. That, makes for a bad day.

 

 

Best tip I can give if don't already know it is release the front brake just before you get ready to put your left foot down at a stop. Any irregularity in the road surface or front wheel not straight will try and make the heavy front end pull left or right and you will be trying to catch it and that ain't easy. Also a little rear brake drag on slow maneuvers helps keep the bike upright.