First_N_Last Posted December 31, 2012 Author #51 Posted December 31, 2012 (edited) I just couldn't get myself out in the cold to do any work, but I did take some photos... to generate awe & wonder... Now look at this BLUE wire - what was the purpose behind the Crimp-Splicers? Were they really just making a long blue wire out of three small pieces of blue wire? ...or was the there a purpose beyond what a normal mind can understand???? The same for this yellow wire - just making a longer yellow wire? ... or was this a secret way of making this bike run better, faster & more efficient? Is this technology & knowledge lost in the last few years? or just piss poor wiring???? Everything I look at seems to need attention. I will prevail - I have the knowledge & technology - solder - soldering iron - electrical tape - decent quality crimp connectors - heat shrink - heat gun - common sense It's just that my patience is running thin - WHAT NEXT - Ha! What wonders of wiring, technology, etc. will be revealed when I take the gas tank off? Huuuummmmmm I'll wait a year before I do that. JohnnyB Edited December 31, 2012 by First_N_Last
Carbon_One Posted January 1, 2013 #52 Posted January 1, 2013 I hate to see those wire connectors used for anything that is exposed to the elements. Moisture, then corrision,then failure is generally the results of using them. Jay (ragtop69gs) had a ball trying to locate a power failure and eventually found the voltage loss at one of those connectors on his bike. John you're doing yourself a favor doing the repairs the old and best way, solder and shrink tubing the connecting wires. Larry
bongobobny Posted January 1, 2013 #53 Posted January 1, 2013 I'm thinking it was probably for a trailer hookup since removed. You should find one on the blue line (running lights), the yellow line (brakes) and the green and brown lines (turn signals) and probably on the ground line (black)...
playboy Posted January 1, 2013 #54 Posted January 1, 2013 Somebody told the PO that those pink things were Relays and that he needed A LOT of them. Why would anyone want to wire a trailer under the fairing
ragtop69gs Posted January 1, 2013 #55 Posted January 1, 2013 I paid him extra to put those in there for you since we knew you'd be adding a bunch of stuff. No need to thank me... just watchin out for ya.
First_N_Last Posted January 1, 2013 Author #56 Posted January 1, 2013 I paid him extra to put those in there for you since we knew you'd be adding a bunch of stuff. No need to thank me... just watchin out for ya. Oh Jay, thanks so much! Now what things should I add... AI (artificial intelligence) a Cylon reciprocating red light eye freakin laser beans to put on my head force field equipment teleportation equipment google auto-driving control interfaces coffee maker installed on handle bars 20" windows 8 display system with both touch & gesture control Any other suggestions???? JohnnyB
ragtop69gs Posted January 1, 2013 #58 Posted January 1, 2013 Just one comes to mind right now, it's an easy install. Here's a picture of it so you can work out the installation procedures.
First_N_Last Posted January 2, 2013 Author #59 Posted January 2, 2013 41 degrees was the warmest it got today so I spent about 40 minutes on the bike work today. Changed the front brake bleeder valves with Speed Bleeders. Then I decided to do the last steps of the clutch upgrade. Pulled the cover... I laid out the allen bolts, Green Springs, extra friction plate... All the plates came out easy in one clump... Here is the removed Barnett Pressure Plate - old springs & new springs... Here's a photo of the gob of plates with the half plate & spacer which I am replacing... This time I got the correct full friction plate - This photo shows the half plate & spacer compared to the normal full friction plate... Then I just put it all back together & that was it for the day. JohnnyB
Bones158 Posted January 3, 2013 #60 Posted January 3, 2013 John, it's looking good. I have a question for you, when u replaced the fork springs does the pvc spacers go in first or last (on top of the spring)before you screw the cap on top. I'm going to replace mine next week.
First_N_Last Posted January 5, 2013 Author #61 Posted January 5, 2013 John, it's looking good. I have a question for you, when u replaced the fork springs does the pvc spacers go in first or last (on top of the spring)before you screw the cap on top. I'm going to replace mine next week. insertion order into the fork tube... while fork tube is compressed, the 6 3/4" (which I cut from the tube in the kit) spacer goes in first I put the washer in right after the spacer at the same time - so the washer wouldn't give me problems turning on it's side then the spring went in & I pulled the fork out to full extension Then I just grabbed the top of the fork tube with my left hand & pushed the fork cap over the spring as I twisted/threaded it on. After the tube was in the tree I did a pre-tighten - finished tightening the cap - then loosened the fork & placed it in final position for final torgue-ing. JohnnyB
First_N_Last Posted January 5, 2013 Author #62 Posted January 5, 2013 Just in case anyone misses me for the next week... I'm taking a week off from working on this. In the morning, I'm on my way to the International Consumer Electronics Show in Vegas & some hiking in Red Rock Park while I'm there. I'll be looking for Electronics to hook up to those high tech pink & blue things on my wiring in the front fairing. JohnB
Bones158 Posted January 5, 2013 #63 Posted January 5, 2013 Thanks John!! Have fun in Vegas. Remember what happends in Vegas, stays in Vegas.
First_N_Last Posted January 14, 2013 Author #64 Posted January 14, 2013 Slow start getting back to continuing checks & repairs... Put the lower half of the top fairing on & connected all of the main cables without incident rewired horn relay circuit wiring rewired passing lamps circuit wiring At this point, I did a start check. Turned on the ignition & not a single light lit. Metered the battery - 0 volts! At this point, I looked at the battery - it was a pseudo sealed lead acid type. I pried the cap strip off to find that every cell had the plates showing. My sold as "Good Battery" seemed to have been trickle charged to an early death. Not by me - the previous owner. Took a break - bought & installed a Deka AGM battery... Then it started & everything is working to this point. That is it for this weekend. JB
bongobobny Posted January 14, 2013 #65 Posted January 14, 2013 Wise choice for the battery!! The DEKA is a good strong battery!
First_N_Last Posted January 21, 2013 Author #66 Posted January 21, 2013 The sun came out & the air warmed up, so I got to work on the Trike again... Flushed & bled the front brakes Flushed & bled the clutch Installed new grips Installed Kuryakyn foot pegs installed front fork air balance kit (air shock crossover) finished wiring in fairing - mounted air horn - closed up fairing & put the rest of the front end stuff back on replaced front fog lights & installed modulated headlight mounted the tachometer on the front brake reservoir That was it for today - I hope it will be nice for just one more day! JohnnyB
playboy Posted January 21, 2013 #67 Posted January 21, 2013 May be the pic but looks like your driving lights have the same problem mine do. The one on the right is closer to the fairing than the one on the left. I have adjusted wiggled and scratched my head can't figure out where it's at unless the bar was welded to bracket of center. Looking good though glad your getting it all back together cause spring is just around the corner. Did you plumb up the balance kit yourself or buy one.
First_N_Last Posted January 21, 2013 Author #68 Posted January 21, 2013 May be the pic but looks like your driving lights have the same problem mine do. The one on the right is closer to the fairing than the one on the left. I have adjusted wiggled and scratched my head can't figure out where it's at unless the bar was welded to bracket of center. Looking good though glad your getting it all back together cause spring is just around the corner. Did you plumb up the balance kit yourself or buy one. lights are equal - parallax issue due to photo angle the balance kit was half & half using a Monroe Air Shock Balance kit to start. JohnB
ragtop69gs Posted January 21, 2013 #69 Posted January 21, 2013 the balance kit was half & half using a Monroe Air Shock Balance kit to start. JohnB Great idea there, I've been wanting to do that also. More details would be great.
alwrmcusn Posted January 21, 2013 #70 Posted January 21, 2013 Could you post the details of the air crossover? Identify the part(s) etc?
bongobobny Posted January 21, 2013 #71 Posted January 21, 2013 Looks a lot better than the model specific equalizer I have but never installed cause I heard they are prone to leak, so add me to the list of wanting complete details...
Carbon_One Posted January 21, 2013 #72 Posted January 21, 2013 Getting her back together sure will put a smile on your face. Especially when you're finally able to hit the road. Larry
First_N_Last Posted January 22, 2013 Author #73 Posted January 22, 2013 I had one more day of warm weather & worked into the dark with headlights from my car... replaced the spark plugs with Iridium plugs (two of originals were loose) flushed the radiator fluid & replaced wired up Baron's Tachometer Actually road it around the neighborhood... Woo Hoo! This morning it is 31 degrees with continued days in the 30s for days. ARGH! Oh well... I still have a few things left to do - later JohnB
First_N_Last Posted January 30, 2013 Author #74 Posted January 30, 2013 Today was the 1st warm day since I put it back together, so I rode it to work for a shake down... The only problem was kind of weird - new grip for the throttle broke free from the throttle sleeve body. I just glued it back on & then finished the name on the bike. JohnB
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