New to me RSV-Hannigan Trike Check-Setup_Mod

[First_N_Last]

BongoBobNY,

 

How do you do the upgrade on brakes? Dad has the original Hannigan trike breaks.

 

Like others, the new Hannigan upgraded brakes are just great & have much more stopping power than your tire/road friction can handle.

 

Just call Hannigan & ask them about upgrade costs. They are very helpful & supportive. That way you will have something supportable, proven & reliable (as others have known).

 

JohnB

[First_N_Last]

More tuning/modding parts arrived today...

 

 

• Iridium spark plugs
  
• StarBurst plug-n-play cable for headlight modulator
  

 

 

First problem discovered in checks - will place that in a separate thread

 

 

JohnB

[Cougar]

Leo, I have also pulled the clutch cover off my trike and I don't even think

I lost more then a teaspoon worth of oil.

[bongobobny]

Do the clutch when you change the oil...

[leo3wheel]

Leo, I have also pulled the clutch cover off my trike and I don't even think

I lost more then a teaspoon worth of oil.

 

Hi Jeff, Not really worried about losing oil. Can coordinate work with oil change. Will visit clutch issue in spring. Too old to work in the cold. Know relacement clutch is stronger, but wonder if it is necessary for our western trip next summer. Hate to replace parts unnecessarily. Will have to experiment with pulling our trailer in the spring to see how trike performs. Thanks!

[Cougar]

Leo, a couple years ago I just did the spring upgrade ONLY and I pull a trailer as well no problems so far so good

[Carbon_One]

Leo, a couple years ago I just did the spring upgrade ONLY and I pull a trailer as well no problems so far so good

On my 05 trike the clucth stated slipping after about 10,000 miles so I put in the PCW clutch upgrade. No New discs as they were still within specs. 35,000 miles later all was still good. The 09 I now have has just under 10k on it but I'm going to do SkyDoc's upgrade before the winter is over. Already have the parts so once I get a chance it'll be done and one less thing I'll have to concern myself with later on in the riding season. I tow a trailer quite often and with the bikes extra weight I just feel better doin it now rather than later.

Larry

[bongobobny]

My clutch started slipping after about 5K as a trike, but I also did a lot of slipping getting used to the extra weight of the trike. Basically what happend is when it starts to go it slips when you get on it too hard. I drove for several thousand miles that way bwefore I finally got around to changing it. Actually, I sweet talked Squidley to do it at MD...

[leo3wheel]

Sounds like I should start by ordering the parts. Then, I'll take it from there. I would feel better going west with the stronger clutch.

[hillrider]

Way back in the third post of this thread. What's a "cam type Allen Wrench"? Is that another way of saying "Ball Head"?

[First_N_Last]

Way back in the third post of this thread. What's a "cam type Allen Wrench"? Is that another way of saying "Ball Head"?

 

yep

[First_N_Last]

more parts arrived yesterday...

 

 

• Signal Dynamics StarBurst headlight modulator
  
• Barnett Heavy Duty Pressure Plate springs "Green"(82lbs vs 75)
  
• front air deflector
  
• side cover bolt
  
• "GhostR" custom license plate
  

 

 

Almost enough to really get started & get it done...

[First_N_Last]

more parts arrived yesterday...

 

 

• Signal Dynamics StarBurst headlight modulator
  
• Barnett Heavy Duty Pressure Plate springs "Green"(82lbs vs 75)
  
• front air deflector
  
• side cover bolt
  
• "GhostR" custom license plate
  

 

 

Almost enough to really get started & get it done...

 

More parts came...

 

• another clutch cover gasket
  
• the correct extra clutch friction plate
  

I now have all the parts to finish the clutch upgrade, but I'm ordering the front fork parts today.

The forks have to be finished & assembled before I continue now.

I want to - have to do them right.

 

 

• progressive springs
  
• 15 weight fork oil - 2 liters
  
• fork-cap O-rings
  
• torque all mount bolts & 2 locking nuts
  

Photos to come...

 

 

JohnnyB

[First_N_Last]

Almost ready to start working on it again...

Yesterday I bought a new in.lb. Torque Wrench & ft.lb. Torque Wrench.

Members gave me recommendations for Fork Bolt tightening also.

 

Today my Progressive Springs and two liters of 15 weight Fork Oil arrived. Amazon is FAST!

All I'm waiting for now are the cap O-ring seals for the fork tubes, & some not-so-cold days.

 

JohnnyB

[ragtop69gs]

The last item may be the hardest to come by.

[First_N_Last]

The last item may be the hardest to come by.

 

 

if I have to wait too long, I just might buy a tent (or make one) & put a heater in it to make a sort-of-garage.

[ragtop69gs]

Or you could throw it on a trailer and bring it over here, I'll fire up the furnace in the garage

[First_N_Last]

Or you could throw it on a trailer and bring it over here, I'll fire up the furnace in the garage

Darn Jay...

 

1st - I feel bad that I don't have a garage

 

Now I feel bad that I don't have a trailer

 

Darn - what next?

 

JohnnyB

[Carbon_One]

Darn Jay...

 

1st - I feel bad that I don't have a garage

 

Now I feel bad that I don't have a trailer

 

Darn - what next?

 

JohnnyB

The fact that you're to far away for us to be of much help to ya.

Larry

[First_N_Last]

Just ordered Speed Bleeders for brakes & clutch.

[First_N_Last]

Getting tired of waiting for warm days so when it is above 40 with winds below 10 mph I've been outside doing it...

 

I loosened the other fork cap & pulled both forks off.

Here is a pic showing the standard fork spring next to the progressive/washer/spacer

 

 

then I drained the fork oil - flushed with ATF - drained again - flushed with ATF again & drained...

 

 

changed the fork cap o-ring

 

 

I added the new fork oil in at 250ml increments (x2 for 500ml total)

 

 

The 500ml amount was determined by filling the collapsed/compressed fork tube without spring & spacer installed.

Progressive Spring instructions recommend oil filled to 5 1/2" below top of tube

 

 

after the oil was added & level checked - added the spacer & washer

(spacers were made/cut to 6 3/4")

 

 

then I added the spring as I extended the fork...

(springs are 15 1/2" long)

 

 

the sun went down... so I screwed on the fork caps & stopped until the next day.

 

Next day - put the forks on - torqued - double checked torque

Put front wheel on - put brakes on...

 

 

I finished today's efforts by putting on handle bars - realizing I forgot to put the cap on steering neck nut - took the bars back off - put the cap & bolt on - put bars back on.

All fork clamp bolts were torque check again. Then again... then again.

 

Last thing for today, I put the lower part of the fairing back on after threading all the cables. Next discovery is some strange wiring - that's tomorrow's episode.

If it is not raining lots of stuff should get done.

 

JohnnyB

[bongobobny]

Great so far Johnny!! I'll be doing the same thing in March/April...

[First_N_Last]

By the way -

 

The tire pictured is my tire off my old bike.

Yep - I took the Avon Venom Reversed Rear Tire I had on the front (cracks & all)

swapped it with the newer E3 & put the E3 on the old bike as part of checks.

It was easier to leave it that way & better for selling the bike (prettier than cracking Venom).

The Avon with 10,000+ miles had more tread than the newer E3 front.

Just have to live with the cosmetic sidewall cracking.

 

JohnnyB

[ragtop69gs]

Did you remember to check the neck bearing torque while it's apart ?

[First_N_Last]

Did you remember to check the neck bearing torque while it's apart ?

 

Sure did - 44 ft.lbs.