Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Here I go...

 

New to me Trike & now I need to Check it over, setup & add-ons:

 

1) Get out the Mecury Carb-Sync - checked OK - no need to adjust

2) removed stock ignition & replaced with DynaTek 3000 - set on performance profile 3 with red line of 7,500 rpm

3) removed stock clutch pressure plate - installed/converted to Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion plate (good old purple)

4) checked out HID headlight kit - decided against it

5) ordered Signal Dynamics Diamond Star headlight modulator

6) ordered Diamond Star Plug & Play harness

7) ordered Hella H4 100/80 Halon watt bulb for headlight

8) ordered qty.4 NGK DPR8EIX-9 Iridium IX Spark Plugs

9) one passing lamp failed so I checked out converting to lens & H3 Halogen bulbs - decided against it & needed rewiring

10) ordered qty.2 Passing Lamp Bulbs - Bulbrite HX36PAR36WFL 36-Watt Halogen/Xenon Sealed Beam PAR36

10) ordered 5-layer felt lined Trike cover - using/covering Trike with my old cover used on my Z4

11) ordered custom license plate GhostR

 

Now I'm preparing to move add-ons from old bike to new bike when these parts get in & I have a nice weather day.

 

I'll continue this as I progress.

JohnB

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

John, I have an '09 RSV Hannigan trike with 15,000 miles, and I'm wondering how big a deal it is to install the Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion plate. Is this something that could be done at Freebird's Maintenance Day? Wondering because I have a long trip planned, 2 up and pulling a trailer through the Rockies. Thanks!

Posted
John, I have an '09 RSV Hannigan trike with 15,000 miles, and I'm wondering how big a deal it is to install the Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion plate. Is this something that could be done at Freebird's Maintenance Day? Wondering because I have a long trip planned, 2 up and pulling a trailer through the Rockies. Thanks!

 

------------------------------

 

Upgrading to Barnett Clutch Plate Spring Conversion takes about a hour...

 

- get new clutch cover gasket

- get Barnett kit

- get engine oil for drain & fill

- get cam type Allen Metric Wrenches

 

1 drain engine oil

2 remove bolts from clutch cover - lay them out so you know what bolt goes where

3 tap clutch cover with rubber mallet - remove cover

4 clean old gasket off cover & case as needed

5 remove 6 bolts holding clutch spring ring - then remove ring - then remove old clutch spring & clutch plate

6 double check & insure that inside case & cover is clean from any parts of old gasket

7 install new Barnett clutch plate on clutch basket assembly - you mave have to remove & rotate a couple times to get the plate to seat properly

8 then install Barnett the six spring/bolts as in the Barnett instructions - don't over tighten

9 put new gasket on - then cleaned clutch cover - reinstall cover bolts in holes as they were originally - tighten

10 insure you installed & tightened oil drain plug & add oil

 

that's it - quick & easy

Posted
------------------------------

 

Upgrading to Barnett Clutch Plate Spring Conversion takes about a hour...

 

I've never done one but I think on a 2 wheeler it is best to have the bike on the side stand so it leans to the left... that way you don't lose oil after draining it. On a trike I believe people have suggested raising the right rear wheel to get an angle on the bike.

Posted

Looks like you'll be busy for a while Leo. Like Bob says the clutch job is pretty straight forward. Deffineately do a clutch upgrade thou. I'm going to use one of SkyDoc's heavy duty kits.

Larry

Posted
Looks like you'll be busy for a while Leo. Like Bob says the clutch job is pretty straight forward. Deffineately do a clutch upgrade thou. I'm going to use one of SkyDoc's heavy duty kits.

Larry

 

 

SkyDoc's Heavy Spring & added clutch plate worked great for my 2008 RSV. A bit grabby, but it grabbed & fixed slipping clutch.

However, because you have to remove every clutch plate & friction plate as well as a wire & two additional parts to toss... it gets to be a bit tedious for less experienced maintenance folks. It is do-able, but tedious & tricky.

 

SkyDoc's $90 with all parts & gasket - good instructions (more effort to do)

 

Barnett is often $140+ - you have to order a gasket yourself - easy instructions

- & extra friction plate if you want that also (no instructions on doing that).

 

For Trike & Trailering, I recommend the Barnett (extra plate not needed then).

For 2 wheel, I recommend saving the money & getting SkyDoc's.

 

JohnB

Posted

Yah!! Plus 1 on replacing the clutch! The stock clutch is one of the weak points on the RSV to begin with, and any trike conversion is going to add weight and put a little more strain on the clutch so replacement was one of the best things you can do!!! The next thingyou might want to consider is improving on the brake system. I personally found the Hasnnigan rear brake system to be very poor but I was victim to one of the earlier setups with the rotor/pad combination that completely burned out the brakes in about 300 miles or so. Their current setup with the cross driled rotors is an improvement but if you want real stopping power especially 2 up hauling a trailer on the interstate you need to go to a bigger master cylinder and Honda Civic calipers and rotors...

Posted

If you plan to use the Branett system then you need to get the heavy duty spring they have now for the ventures. Branett Part #

501-82-06023

 

This info came from Branett because I cantacted them to see if they had better springs. They said it will increase your clutch pull about 10 % I did not notice any change.

I just install them in my bike with the clutch upgrade by adding a full friction plate were the 1/2 was and now we have hook up. I pull a trailer 95 % of the time . works great now.

Good luck :thumbsup:

Posted
Yah!! Plus 1 on replacing the clutch! The stock clutch is one of the weak points on the RSV to begin with, and any trike conversion is going to add weight and put a little more strain on the clutch so replacement was one of the best things you can do!!! The next thingyou might want to consider is improving on the brake system. I personally found the Hasnnigan rear brake system to be very poor but I was victim to one of the earlier setups with the rotor/pad combination that completely burned out the brakes in about 300 miles or so. Their current setup with the cross driled rotors is an improvement but if you want real stopping power especially 2 up hauling a trailer on the interstate you need to go to a bigger master cylinder and Honda Civic calipers and rotors...

 

BongoBobNY,

 

How do you do the upgrade on brakes? Dad has the original Hannigan trike breaks.

Posted

Leo, I replaced mine (Barnett) and u don't have to drain the oil if don't need to. You only loose about a tablespoon after opening the side.

 

Kidd-- Congrats on your marrage!! Looks like your Dad hasent sold his wing yet, that was a good deal. R U back home in NC or back in Nashville after your honeymoon? :starz:

Posted
I stopped at the Hannigan factory in Kentucky, while on a trip. They upgraded our brakes free of charge.

 

What year trike kit is yours? My dad's is an 07. I called about doing it but they didn't let me know how much or how?

Posted
What year trike kit is yours? My dad's is an 07. I called about doing it but they didn't let me know how much or how?

 

Our '09 RSV was converted in the summer of '10. Service manager Jim Gooch did the brake upgrade for us. Told Jim I would be in the area, and asked if our trike could get the upgrade. He did the work himself, new rotors, pads and tire balancing. He did not charge us. Some folks with older trikes have had Jim send them the parts, and they did the work themselves. Talk with Jim and see what he can do for your dad.

Posted

The free upgrade is on bikes converted within a 3 month span in late 2009 thru early 2010 is what I was told, and only applies to bikes built with the mismatched pad and rotor combination.

 

WMMV

Posted
The free upgrade is on bikes converted within a 3 month span in late 2009 thru early 2010 is what I was told, and only applies to bikes built with the mismatched pad and rotor combination.

 

WMMV

 

Our trike does not fit this window. I complained about squealing brakes, and got no resistance. Know of someone who got a conversion after us, and he was upgraded to the new brakes. Not sure if his dealer did the work for him. The upgrade is standard on all new RSV conversions. Love our new brakes! Never hear a sound now. :happy34:

Posted

Some mod parts have arrived & others have been ordered...

 

Received:

- Hella 8GJ002525-501 H4 100/80 watt Halogen bulb & spare arrived

- 2 Bulbrite XP Sealed Beam PAR-36 Halogen-Xenon bulbs

 

Ordered:

- Barnett HD clutch spring set (Green)

- another clutch cover gasket

- correct clutch friction plate

 

Not enough stuff to start modding again yet...

 

JohnB

Posted
Our trike does not fit this window. I complained about squealing brakes, and got no resistance. Know of someone who got a conversion after us, and he was upgraded to the new brakes. Not sure if his dealer did the work for him. The upgrade is standard on all new RSV conversions. Love our new brakes! Never hear a sound now. :happy34:

 

Maybe they have softened there stance on it then.

 

That is why I can't say enough good things about Hannigan Motorsports. They are a class act.:clap2::clap2:

Posted
BongoBobNY,

 

How do you do the upgrade on brakes? Dad has the original Hannigan trike breaks.

Sorry for the delay getting back to you. For thye rear I ended up installing stock Honda Civic/CRX calipers and rotors which bolt on. Unfortunately you have to change the SS brake lines to banjo style fittings as the location of the lines using the hannigan ones gets in the way of the frame. Now to power the larger calipers you have to replace the rear master cylinder with a larger bore master. I used a Wilwood 13/16" master cylinder and cut off/ground off one of the mounting ears. I made an adapter plate and cut up my stock brake pedal assembly to mount it along with the master cylinder onto my home made adapter plate. You also either have to come up with an adapter for the brake line or replace that line as well as the Wilwood is SAE thread and the existing brake line is Metric. Good time to come up with a replacement brake line that is SS instead of the stock rubber one.

 

It was a lot of work and trial and error but I now have twice the stopping power over the Hannigan setup. There is a thread in this forum detailing the conversion and the trials and tribulations encountered as I was doing it...

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67814

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...