CV carb slide bounce

[Gojira]

Can anyone tell me if and how much the cv slides should bounce while the engine is running? If I blip the throttle just a bit, they move quite a bit. Does this indicate a problem?

 

Starting to take the carbs out and apart and man they are dirty!

[twigg]

They will move quite a lot as their position is entirely dependent on intake vacuum.

 

That varies during the 4-cycles.

 

You have a much bigger problem if they aren't "bouncing"

[Snaggletooth]

Sounds like they are doing their job. They might even move more when you get everything cleaned up and adjusted.

 

Like Twigg said, when they quit moving is when you start to worry.

 

And don't forget to use an assembly plate of some sort when you mount the carbs back together with the brackets. All four carbs NEED to be dead flat across the bottoms.

 

And then time for a sync.

 

Mike

[Pegasus1300]

No the top of your work bench is not flat enough. I have used with good succuss a 1/2 thick piece of plastic(cheep) a machinist's surface(expensive) a formica counter top(check with wife 1st then test counter top for flatness)

[twigg]

No the top of your work bench is not flat enough. I have used with good succuss a 1/2 thick piece of plastic(cheep) a machinist's surface(expensive) a formica counter top(check with wife 1st then test counter top for flatness)

 

Counter top gets my vote.

 

Wife has to sleep sometime!

[Gojira]

Ok , I appreciate the tips! I know where I can borrow a chunk of flat plate.

[Snaggletooth]

I had my carbs off the bike so many times when I first got it and AFTER I figured out how critical the carb body alignment was I made a set of plates out of counter top material to "sandwich" the bodies.

 

There are some linkages and fittings that extend past the points where the bodies meet the plate surfaces so I used hole saws and a jig saw to make room for them and places to access each brakect screw that would need to be tightened during the process.

 

I'd install each screw loosely and set the rack assembly on the lower plate and allign the linkages to the holes. Then set on the top plate and line it up. Don't want to bend or break any thing. I used two large C-clamps to pull the plates together until there were NO gaps on the plate surfaces then tighten all the screws down.

 

It was butt ugly and looked like a piece of hard to eat Swiss Cheese but in made the reassembly of the rack easier and the rack was the same each and every time when I was done.

 

But it was CHEAP and useful.

 

 

Mike

[GaryZ]

I had my carbs off the bike so many times when I first got it and AFTER I figured out how critical the carb body alignment was I made a set of plates out of counter top material to "sandwich" the bodies.

 

There are some linkages and fittings that extend past the points where the bodies meet the plate surfaces so I used hole saws and a jig saw to make room for them and places to access each brakect screw that would need to be tightened during the process.

 

I'd install each screw loosely and set the rack assembly on the lower plate and allign the linkages to the holes. Then set on the top plate and line it up. Don't want to bend or break any thing. I used two large C-clamps to pull the plates together until there were NO gaps on the plate surfaces then tighten all the screws down.

 

It was butt ugly and looked like a piece of hard to eat Swiss Cheese but in made the reassembly of the rack easier and the rack was the same each and every time when I was done.

 

But it was CHEAP and useful.

 

 

Mike

 

Nice . . . Putting this in my file

[twigg]

I had my carbs off the bike so many times when I first got it and AFTER I figured out how critical the carb body alignment was I made a set of plates out of counter top material to "sandwich" the bodies.

 

There are some linkages and fittings that extend past the points where the bodies meet the plate surfaces so I used hole saws and a jig saw to make room for them and places to access each brakect screw that would need to be tightened during the process.

 

I'd install each screw loosely and set the rack assembly on the lower plate and allign the linkages to the holes. Then set on the top plate and line it up. Don't want to bend or break any thing. I used two large C-clamps to pull the plates together until there were NO gaps on the plate surfaces then tighten all the screws down.

 

It was butt ugly and looked like a piece of hard to eat Swiss Cheese but in made the reassembly of the rack easier and the rack was the same each and every time when I was done.

 

But it was CHEAP and useful.

 

 

Mike

 

Mike ... Just how flat do they have to be?

 

I'm always up for a decent jig, but I was wondering what the effect is of the carbs not being perfectly flat ... mine always have seemed pretty good holding them tight on the counter top while tightening the bolts.

[Snaggletooth]

Mike ... Just how flat do they have to be?

 

I'm always up for a decent jig, but I was wondering what the effect is of the carbs not being perfectly flat ... mine always have seemed pretty good holding them tight on the counter top while tightening the bolts.

 

The closer to perfect the better in my book. The fit to the intake boots was the first problem I had on mine getting them seated properly. The "Sandwich Board" solved that.

 

The biggest plus was as many times I had the the rack off the bike was it helped keep all the linkage adjustments pretty close to where I started from. Once I got the hang of it the sync would barely change between teardown to reinstall.

 

I've used the gizmo to trouble shoot racks as soon as they came off the bike when someone else was having problems getting them to seat and seal up. Clamp it in and loosen the screws and they bodies would shift. Tighten them down and put them back on. Worked pretty well and saves time.

 

As you know and understand, the point of getting each axis spot on has great benifits. Everything works in sync like it should and no binding of linkages.

 

Sound a bit anal? Probably. It just makes it easier for me.

 

Mike

 

For a guy doing it one time I'd say the counter top would work fine if they pay attention to the levels of each body. When you do it a lot, every trick helps.