pull the R/R

[Brake Pad]

Turned meter to OHM 200 @ (20 there was no reading)

the R/R @ 1-2 1-3 & 2-3 all showed 1.6 ohms (the 2.0) the second time

 

 

no loose pins & wiring was clean,, no burnt pins

Edited October 15, 2012 by Brake Pad

[bongobobny]

Check 1, 2, and 3 to ground, shouild be infinity reading. Next, start bike, switch meter to AC and all three combinations of pairs should be the same AC voltage level.

 

I'm assuming you are looking at the 3 stator wires where they come into the R/R connector. Don't understand why no reading on the 20 ohm scale, you should have seen 1.6 also...

[Brake Pad]

okay, I did a AC test, and all three pins are showing 26.7 to 28 Volts

Thank Bob.

what's next?

[Brake Pad]

ran bike out to 4000 rpm, all three connections showing 100+

[Brake Pad]

meter to "Diode Test"

red to ground on thr R/R I got #1 488 #2 488 #3 490

[Brake Pad]

tested the battery before starting 12.7

 

after warming up 12.8 to 13.7 RPM's to 2000 14.8

[Brake Pad]

Is there an easier way to get that Back R/R bolt to go into the hole? Geeez, Two hours of skin grinding, before it went in., My fingers are now dyslexic:doh:

[twigg]

tested the battery before starting 12.7

 

after warming up 12.8 to 13.7 RPM's to 2000 14.8

 

Doesn't seem to be much wrong with those numbers.

[Brake Pad]

I just don't want to be out in the middle of nowhere, and the bike not start. BIGGEST FEAR!!!!!

[LilBeaver]

meter to "Diode Test"

red to ground on thr R/R I got #1 488 #2 488 #3 490

 

Did you also repeat the test with a lead on the negative terminal, then connecting to 1, 2 and 3?

 

 

Are you having a problem with you bike?

 

I am a little confused based on your PM with the reported values.

 

Something else to try is to start the bike, set your meter to "AC Voltage" mode and probe the + a - battery leads. Any sign of AC voltage across those leads and your rectifier is toast. Any voltage reading above 14.4V, and your regulator is toast.

 

Bench testing the R/R the way you did is mostly inconclusive (unless something is conclusively out of spec) because the specs for a standard unit are unknown. Also, a static test of this unit can only probe some of the internal circuitry.

[LilBeaver]

I just don't want to be out in the middle of nowhere, and the bike not start. BIGGEST FEAR!!!!!

 

What about having a bad R/R on your bike, while riding, and it fries the electronics on your bike. That would be a good time too.

[bongobobny]

My next guess would be that when it gets hot the stator may go bad. Take it for a ride and without shutting the bike off, repeat the DC voltage test across the battery. Also, there is another connector for the stator under the seat around the area where the coils are, next to the coolant overflow bottle. There could be corrosion there...

[Flyinfool]

If you are worried about failure on the road, install a digital volt meter that will read to one or more decimal places. (You only really need one decimal place.) Just keep an eye on the voltage any change up or down of more than a couple of tenths of a volt, while at cruising speed, could be the beginning of an issue but it will give you time to do something about it before you are stranded.

[Brake Pad]

just checked the stator line under the seat/passenger floorboard, clean and no loose pins. I checked the battery again before starting 12.88, and at Idle 17.8

 

Hello Ebay......:mo money: