Battery problem #3451

[midnightrider1300]

Ok I have BATTERY /charging or lack of it on my bike.. I've checked the battery it's good, I've checked and there is NOTHING drawing...& 13.5 -14.2 charging.. Well wife & I went a cple day ride & sure enough we go out Sunday morning & the bike wont crank....135 miles from home and NO1 round I do what any man would do.... I walk acoss to KMART and by a 500 cold cranking jump box...and hope n pray it is charged enough to JUMP the bike off...well it does...we ride almost 130 miles & i stop for gas kill the bike fill it up & it wont start... i was like WTH... jump it off.... well we stop several times after and bike cranks.. I go out this morning NOTHING....now my battery isn't 6 months old... matter of fact it's the 2nd battery i've bought in a yr .....now I'm looking at a HIGH output stator or open to suggestions.... uggggg don't know what or where to turn....

[CaptainJoe]

bad ground? clean and put an anit oxidant on it.

 

Reason I'm leaning that way is if you jump it it starts.(if it were a bad switch it wouldnt)

 

did you check voltage at battery when it didnt start?

Edited October 9, 2012 by CaptainJoe

[midnightrider1300]

bad ground? clean and put an anit oxidant on it.

 

Reason I'm leaning that way is if you jump it it starts.(if it were a bad switch it wouldnt)

 

did you check voltage at battery when it didnt start?

 

Hmmm I was told by another member to add another ground...?????

 

No I didn't check it... no way to check it....

[CaptainJoe]

just buy a $12 multi meter at Wallmart .

 

Set dial on 50 DCV.

 

If should read at least +12 volts. If its 10 you probably have a charging problem.

 

You can also use the multimeter to check the stator (where the wires come up and connect to the wiring harness) as the resistance must be in a certain range.. Don't remember off hand what the range is...

[midnightrider1300]

just buy a $12 multi meter at Wallmart .

 

Set dial on 50 DCV.

 

If should read at least +12 volts. If its 10 you probably have a charging problem.

 

You can also use the multimeter to check the stator (where the wires come up and connect to the wiring harness) as the resistance must be in a certain range.. Don't remember off hand what the range is...

 

 

they checked at the shop and it showed 2b charging like it is suppose to... so I don't know... I just know it's a pain in the BUTT

[Marcarl]

You need to check the voltage of the battery when it won't crank. That will tell a lot. I suspect a loose wire at the battery terminal. Could be a loose terminal or the wire might be loose where it bonds with the terminal.

[pmelah]

seafoam??

[midnightrider1300]

You need to check the voltage of the battery when it won't crank. That will tell a lot. I suspect a loose wire at the battery terminal. Could be a loose terminal or the wire might be loose where it bonds with the terminal.

 

 

not a loose wire on battery ... put new bolts & star washers and tightened them as tight as can be ....now it could be a lose wire somewhere else.....

[pmelah]

i had to do it

 

check the terminals sometimes they will come lose from the wire and will not make a good connection i have had that happen on factory crimp connections went through 3 batteries before i found it not to mention untold shop fees to tell me its working fine

[midnightrider1300]

i had to do it

 

check the terminals sometimes they will come lose from the wire and will not make a good connection i have had that happen on factory crimp connections went through 3 batteries before i found it not to mention untold shop fees to tell me its working fine

it had crossed my mind to put LARGER wire to the battery if that is doable

[Snaggletooth]

If you are showing a charge of 13.5 (idle) - 14.2 (above 2k rpm) AT the battery while running I'm going to say the battery itself is most suspect. The charging system sounds like it working fine in that range.

 

If all the connections are clean and tight you should be ok. Make sure the ground wire to the engine is in good shape also.

 

Adding a High Output stator, as well as an upgrade R/R will still charge in that same range but will help keep the charge up when adding more load to the system. It will not help do much to improve a problem like you are having.

 

Best test, with the battery charged.... connect a voltmeter or multimeter at the battery posts and check the voltage. It should be in excess of 12.6 volts or higher.

 

With the test meters still hooked up crank the bike at watch the readings. If the battery is on it's way out, it's gonna be dropping like a rock. Probably going below 10 volts.

 

I'd pull the battery and have a local battery supplier do a load test. That will answer the question for sure.

 

I have the DEKA AGM, almost five years old, and it don't drop below 11.6 during cranking even at cold starts and it's right back to 14.3 at 2k rpm.

 

I'd be sure the issue you are having is cleared up before adding an upgrade to the charging system or you will probably be disapointed with the upgrade.

 

Just my

 

Mike

Edited October 9, 2012 by Snaggletooth

[Snaggletooth]

it had crossed my mind to put LARGER wire to the battery if that is doable

 

 

Us old 1st Genners have been using the heavier battery cables for a while with great results. Both sides, positive and negative cables. We were doing that upgrade to deal with hot starts due to the 2 brush starters. Major improvement.

 

But the battery is the heart and needs to be alive and well to gain anything from the cable upgrade.

 

Mike

[GeorgeS]

Remove the Red, and black cables at the Starter, and at the enging crankcase at the main grounding point. Clean the bolts, and threads, Check the studs on ends of cables for Corrosion .

Use a Torch, and Resolder the the Studs on the Ends of the cables,

 

Good idea to resolder the studs, on the battery ends also.

 

Pull the Plug out of your Rectifyer/Regulator unit, and Inspect the Pins in the plug. Clean the Pins with Electrical contact cleaner.

 

(( you , might, have a bad Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, but I suspect battery first ))

 

Get a good Digital Volt / Ohm Meter, ( spend about $50 bucks for one ) Charge the battery, then disconnect it, let it sit over night and re chech the voltage next day. If your bat is a lead acid it should hold 12.2 to 12.4 volts. if its dropping below that then its bad no matter how old it is.

 

If its an AGM Dry Cell, after charging it should hold 12.7 to 12.9 volts.

 

Ok reconnect everything, and with ignition OFF recheck the voltage across battery and see if any appriciable amount of voltage drop, if so this would indicate something is drawing current with switch OFF.

 

Charge the battery , Disconnected from bike, if lead acid, about 10 hours at 2 amp rate.

If you bat is an AGM Dry cel, charge at High Rate, about 6 amps for 4 to 5 hours, let sit over night, then check voltage with your ( New Volt Ohm Meter )

 

Ok hook up everything, run engine, Read voltage across the battery, should read, at least 13.8 to 14.2 volts DC at about 2000 RPM.

 

Find the Large White Plug, with 3 #10 wires going thru it, open the plug, and Inspect the Pins for Burnt, or Damaged Pins. If the Plug is bad, the cut out the plug, and Splice, and Solder the wires together, and apply at least 2 layers of Shrink Tubeing, insulation. over the new splices.

 

Post your findings, and sombody will be able to help. ((( We need a few clues, and more exact Meter Voltage Readings. )))

 

 

If you are Mechanically challanged !!! then find sombody to do all this stuff for you. (or electrically challenged )

 

If you need, more help, get the meter, then PM me, I will be glad to talk you thru the process. Its actually quite easy to determing where the trouble is.

[midnightrider1300]

Remove the Red, and black cables at the Starter, and at the enging crankcase at the main grounding point. Clean the bolts, and threads, Check the studs on ends of cables for Corrosion .

Use a Torch, and Resolder the the Studs on the Ends of the cables,

 

Good idea to resolder the studs, on the battery ends also.

 

Pull the Plug out of your Rectifyer/Regulator unit, and Inspect the Pins in the plug. Clean the Pins with Electrical contact cleaner.

 

(( you , might, have a bad Rectifyer/Regulator Unit, but I suspect battery first ))

 

Get a good Digital Volt / Ohm Meter, ( spend about $50 bucks for one ) Charge the battery, then disconnect it, let it sit over night and re check the voltage next day. If your bat is a lead acid it should hold 12.2 to 12.4 volts. if its dropping below that then its bad no matter how old it is.

 

If its an AGM Dry Cell, after charging it should hold 12.7 to 12.9 volts.

 

Ok reconnect everything, and with ignition OFF recheck the voltage across battery and see if any appriciable amount of voltage drop, if so this would indicate something is drawing current with switch OFF.

 

Charge the battery , Disconnected from bike, if lead acid, about 10 hours at 2 amp rate.

If you bat is an AGM Dry cel, charge at High Rate, about 6 amps for 4 to 5 hours, let sit over night, then check voltage with your ( New Volt Ohm Meter )

 

Ok hook up everything, run engine, Read voltage across the battery, should read, at least 13.8 to 14.2 volts DC at about 2000 RPM.

 

Find the Large White Plug, with 3 #10 wires going thru it, open the plug, and Inspect the Pins for Burnt, or Damaged Pins. If the Plug is bad, the cut out the plug, and Splice, and Solder the wires together, and apply at least 2 layers of Shrink Tubeing, insulation. over the new splices.

 

Post your findings, and sombody will be able to help. ((( We need a few clues, and more exact Meter Voltage Readings. )))

 

 

If you are Mechanically challanged !!! then find sombody to do all this stuff for you. (or electrically challenged )

 

If you need, more help, get the meter, then PM me, I will be glad to talk you thru the process. Its actually quite easy to determing where the trouble is.

 

Had our shop check all this... I stood and watched... everything checked out... couldn't find the least bit of draw in no form or fashion... Battery was good, charging.... I do need to check it when it doesn't crank tho to see what the reading is.... It is a mystery and down right aggravating.... trouble shooting can be a pain in the backside... lol ... thing is with the jump box it will fire right up so seems like that would indicate bad battery and not a connection... BUT the battery checks out to be good...2 batteries a year is getting OLD!!!!

[CaptainJoe]

You didn't by any chance install a wolo air horn did you?

 

(the main ground for battery would be under the stud for the horn)

[GeorgeS]

At this point, from what you have said, I would Remove the Battery again.

 

Charge it " Out of the Bike "

 

Then let it sit, for about 3 days, and Use the " Good " Digital Voltmeter, you bought

and check the voltage every day for several days.

 

If the voltage is dropping, with bat sitting on bench, then its Bad !!! Irregardless of

the date of its birthday. !!

 

---------------------

 

I'm suspecting a Bad connection somplace on your bike.

 

Find your, ----- Starter Solinoid, ----- Pull it out, and Replace it !!!

 

You Might, have a bad connection INSIDE, the Starter motor, If sombody OverTorques, the 10MM Nut on the battery cable STUD, of these Starters, you

can --- EAISLY --- !!!!! Twist OFF the Stud Inside the Starter motor,

Has anybody, removed, and re- Installed the Red Batt Cable on your starter latley ???

This is way out in left field, but is a possibility.

 

----------------------------

 

Have you pulled the END of the Black Cable, at the Engine case, near the water pump, and Cleaned up the threads on that Bolt ?????

 

When you do this, RE-Solder, the Stud on the end of that cable.

 

----------------------

 

Check your RED, Run-Stop Switch -- On the right handle bar. IF---this switch

goes " High Resistance " you will have a Voltage DROP, to the TCI Unit, the Fuel Pump, and All the Ignition Coils !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Obviously the Engine would not start.

Do a Resistance check Across the Run Stop Switch, this is admittly another ,

way out in left field, possibility, but worth checking.

 

----------------------

 

do a resistance check " Across Your Ignition Switch" On- Off contacts,

another left field item, but worth checking.

 

-------------------

[OwenB]

I think I have read all of this. The one thing I havent seen anyone say, and it seems obvious to me, "wires". They can go bad regardless what the ends and connections look like, and can look like they are fine untill everything heats up. Other components can look good untill hot too... Havent had any problems with mine, the golf cart on the other hand...

[Brake Pad]

At this point, from what you have said, I would Remove the Battery again.

 

Charge it " Out of the Bike "

 

Then let it sit, for about 3 days, and Use the " Good " Digital Voltmeter, you bought

and check the voltage every day for several days.

 

If the voltage is dropping, with bat sitting on bench, then its Bad !!! Irregardless of

the date of its birthday. !!

 

---------------------

 

I'm suspecting a Bad connection somplace on your bike.

 

Find your, ----- Starter Solinoid, ----- Pull it out, and Replace it !!!

 

You Might, have a bad connection INSIDE, the Starter motor, If sombody OverTorques, the 10MM Nut on the battery cable STUD, of these Starters, you

can --- EAISLY --- !!!!! Twist OFF the Stud Inside the Starter motor,

Has anybody, removed, and re- Installed the Red Batt Cable on your starter latley ???

This is way out in left field, but is a possibility.

 

----------------------------

 

Have you pulled the END of the Black Cable, at the Engine case, near the water pump, and Cleaned up the threads on that Bolt ?????

 

When you do this, RE-Solder, the Stud on the end of that cable.

 

----------------------

 

Check your RED, Run-Stop Switch -- On the right handle bar. IF---this switch

goes " High Resistance " you will have a Voltage DROP, to the TCI Unit, the Fuel Pump, and All the Ignition Coils !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Obviously the Engine would not start.

Do a Resistance check Across the Run Stop Switch, this is admittly another ,

way out in left field, possibility, but worth checking.

 

----------------------

 

do a resistance check " Across Your Ignition Switch" On- Off contacts,

another left field item, but worth checking.

 

-------------------

 

For some of us dummies, we need pictures when you talk about some of these things

[midnightrider1300]

For some of us dummies, we need pictures when you talk about some of these things

 

Ditto brake pad...

[k9cottage]

when you parked it did you have the key out a friend of mine stopped to talk before we went for a ride he didn't [forgot ] to turn the key right off lights stayed on flattened the battery within 15 minutes we had to jump start it at least he learned a good lesson that day