HH brake pads on First Gen

[Prairiehammer]

I've contemplated installing the EBC HH pads on my laden '90, but have reservations due to the reported high rotor wear. Rotors for my bike are very expensive if one can even find them.

Any First Gen owners with long term HH pad installations out there? What is the accumulated mileage with the HH? Notice any significant rotor wear? What kind of riding have you subjected the bike while wearing the HH pads?

One probably shouldn't attempt to put a price on safety (good braking), but if after spending $100 for just the pads and then perhaps several hundred more for rotors (or worse, having no ride-able motorcycle because one can't get any replacement rotors) after a couple seasons of back roads, two-up, trailer towing touring, well that is unacceptably expensive.

[Flyinfool]

I have had the HH pads on my 88 for a while now.

Most of my riding is in city traffic commuting to work, so the brakes get a workout.

I have about 12K miles on them and there is no appreciable visible wear of the rotors.

The stopping power over the OEM pads is night and day and worth the cost down the road. I have had to make several panic stops over the years, and don't think I would have made the stops in time with the OEM pads. EBC does make new rotors to fit the 1st gens. I've been thinking of picking up a set one by one and put them up on the shelf, just to have for someday.

[reddevilmedic]

im also running HH with delinked system. have about 8k on them, no noticable wear on rotors. i will be changing them over winter, precautionary. i find them on ebay for about 20 a set.

[twigg]

Improving the brakes is not a simple consideration. The word "improve" in this instance means "increasing the braking force applied".

 

It is clear that the 1st Gen brakes will bring the bike to a safe and predictable stop. That is what they are designed to do, and they work. By modern standards they are quite poor in that stopping distances are higher than they need to be. In normal riding this is not an issue, you can brake earlier or a bit harder.

 

Where it becomes an issue is in an emergency ... not the best time to be changing your pads. In those circumstances, stopping ten feet earlier can be the difference between hitting that car, or child, and not hitting them ... or a reduced impact if you hit.

 

On the other hand, more effective brakes require more skill to use effectively. They will slow the bike MUCH quicker, and increase the chances of locking a wheel, which can be disastrous. ABS takes care of some of that, but not all of it. We don't have it though.

 

The stock brakes were not designed for use with a trailer. It is possible that Yamaha might have tested them with trailers, but they didn't and it is best to assume that they probably are not good enough, because they are not brilliant even without one.

 

Upgrading brakes can be done in slices, or all at once. Steel braided brake lines are a cheap and good value upgrade. Three lines on the front will reduce the hand pressure and increase the feel of the brakes massively. If you "de-link" at the same time you can get away with two lines and do the job for about $60 if you know where to shop.

 

HH pads have more bite and more stopping power. Ceramic pads do too without the wear issues, but they are not so easy to find. Personally I would go for the HH pads and accept that rotors are a consumable ... albeit an expensive one.

 

Next you can replace those elderly calipers with much better ones. Front calipers from an early Yamaha R1 or R6 bolt straight on and are better engineered, with a much larger pad area contacting the rotor. Result ... big increase in stopping power.

 

You can choose not to de-link the brakes. It is not required and the stock system works actually rather well. Under emergency conditions it might lock up the rear, but so much braking is on the front at that time that you probably wouldn't even notice as the rear would be barely skimming the ground anyway.

 

Many folk de-link, but it is a preference that should really only be done by experienced riders. The stock system will provide more balanced braking for less experienced riders. Personally, I want control of my brakes and I will separate the front from the rear, but on a modern Honda or BMW you can't .... and their brakes are excellent.

 

What we are left with is that the OEM brakes work, but probably could use a little help. Stick with them but be aware that you should ride fairly conservatively. Upgrade them and be aware that there will be a learning curve, but a decent payoff in the end.

 

The total cost is not small, but can be done in increments. Skydoc will sell you a complete. bolt-on upgrade. His price is high, but it is also reasonable. You can source the bits yourself and do it cheaper, but it is more work.

 

ps ... If you go for R1 or R6 calipers you will need a new master cylinder too. The stock m/c will work, but you won't get the full benefit until you replace it.

 

e&oe