cabreco Posted September 23, 2012 #1 Posted September 23, 2012 I think I will me replacing my front wheel bearing. (I feel a buzzing in the handlebars & a whirring sound when I lean into turns even thought the bearings are not sloppy) So I have to buy a puller. I know the Tusk bearing remover set would work 8mmm- 31mm but it's $90 and a tool I don't use often SO.... My question is will this Harbor Freight set work as well. It's Standard sizes not metric & since IDK the size of the front bearing I figure I will ask here. http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
lonestarmedic Posted September 23, 2012 #2 Posted September 23, 2012 Looks like my Harbor Freight set. Used it with great sucsess to remove bearings both front and rear on my 1986. I had to block the wheel off the floor to avoid the discs. Then stood on the wheel and the bearing came right out. Pay attention to all the various spacers, including the one between the bearings. JB
jimmyenglish Posted September 23, 2012 #3 Posted September 23, 2012 2nd Lonestar. Harbor Freight bearing removal tool works great. Did all my bearing a couple years ago.
cabreco Posted September 23, 2012 Author #4 Posted September 23, 2012 EXCELLENT! Half the price means twice the fun! Thanks guys!
Ozlander Posted September 24, 2012 #5 Posted September 24, 2012 Just drive it out from the other side with a long punch.
lonestarmedic Posted September 24, 2012 #6 Posted September 24, 2012 Get the pilot puller. There is an spacer between the bearings that makes it a bit difficult to use a long punch. I tried it and bought the puller kit. Also grease the threads on the collet expander. Makes it a lot easier to tighten the collet. I remember that the collet barely grabbed the bearing in the groove between the bearing and spacer. Had to tighten with wrenches and reset the collet after the bearing moved a bit. After it moved, there was a bigger gap for the collet to grab. JB
Pegasus1300 Posted September 24, 2012 #7 Posted September 24, 2012 I have used the Harbour freight one for years and it works good. Use a propane torch to heat the wheel and expand it a little makes pulling the bearing easier.When you replace put the bearing in the freezer for 10 min and heat the wheel a little again.The expansion of the wheet and the contraction of the bearing make the install go faster and easier.You don't need much heat just to hot to handle bare hands.
cabreco Posted September 24, 2012 Author #8 Posted September 24, 2012 Well the GOOD news is that my bearing is in pristine condition. The dealer says the noise is coming from the front Dunlop 491 (which is 8 years old) The edges are not even, so on turns when I lean I get the whine. Replacing it with a Kenda Kruz, since the PO changed out the rear tire with a Kenda. Can't beat the $70 price. When the Kendas wear I'll replace the set with Dunlops again. Since I didn't need the bearings, I bought a set of EBC - HH brake pads for the old girl.
RedRider Posted September 24, 2012 #9 Posted September 24, 2012 Well the GOOD news is that my bearing is in pristine condition. The dealer says the noise is coming from the front Dunlop 491 (which is 8 years old) The edges are not even, so on turns when I lean I get the whine. Replacing it with a Kenda Kruz, since the PO changed out the rear tire with a Kenda. Can't beat the $70 price. When the Kendas wear I'll replace the set with Dunlops again. Since I didn't need the bearings, I bought a set of EBC - HH brake pads for the old girl. Your reply beat me to this. The symptoms are of a front tire that needs replaced (and was mostly ridden on straight highways). How many miles are on this beast? Might be a good idea to replace the bearing anyway since you're in there. RR
cabreco Posted September 24, 2012 Author #10 Posted September 24, 2012 Your reply beat me to this. The symptoms are of a front tire that needs replaced (and was mostly ridden on straight highways). How many miles are on this beast? Might be a good idea to replace the bearing anyway since you're in there. RR Jeff, The replacement of the bearing was my thought exactly, especially since the wheel is off. I had the Yamaha dealer tech inspect it & the service manager said it feels like new & I don't need to replace it. Mind you I was having THEM do it. When a dealer turns down a job, especially in this economy, you have to believe them My '84 just turned 15,000 miles on the odometer. She sat for years after the original owner passed away. So although ignored, she has been a garage queen all her life.
timgray Posted September 24, 2012 #11 Posted September 24, 2012 Well the GOOD news is that my bearing is in pristine condition. The dealer says the noise is coming from the front Dunlop 491 (which is 8 years old) The edges are not even, so on turns when I lean I get the whine. Replacing it with a Kenda Kruz, since the PO changed out the rear tire with a Kenda. Can't beat the $70 price. When the Kendas wear I'll replace the set with Dunlops again. Since I didn't need the bearings, I bought a set of EBC - HH brake pads for the old girl. did you replace them anyways? I used the new sealed type so I will never ever have to do it again.
cabreco Posted September 24, 2012 Author #12 Posted September 24, 2012 did you replace them anyways? I used the new sealed type so I will never ever have to do it again. No, I used the $$$ on new EBC HH front brake pads
Pegasus1300 Posted September 25, 2012 #13 Posted September 25, 2012 Good choice on the brake pads.Give them about 100 miles of use to bed in properly before you really hit them.
cabreco Posted September 25, 2012 Author #14 Posted September 25, 2012 Good choice on the brake pads.Give them about 100 miles of use to bed in properly before you really hit them. Whattayaknow, I took the pads out of my calipers, (since my bike is a unicycle right now waiting to get the rim back with the new tire installed) And she already has EBC HH pad in her already. Even though there is plenty of meat on the old pads I'm going to change them. For some reason , the pads & calipers were filled with gunk. Like the sludge that sit on the oil pan of an old 60's v8 & trans. (gearheads know what I mean) Anyway I cleaned everything up, pushed in the caliper pistons, scrubbed UNDER the front fender & now I'm just waiting for the pads & tire to get done. At least now I will KNOW what the mileage is on these NEW pads
saddlebum Posted September 25, 2012 #15 Posted September 25, 2012 Just drive it out from the other side with a long punch. Thats all I have ever used
RedRider Posted September 26, 2012 #16 Posted September 26, 2012 Jeff, The replacement of the bearing was my thought exactly, especially since the wheel is off. I had the Yamaha dealer tech inspect it & the service manager said it feels like new & I don't need to replace it. Mind you I was having THEM do it. When a dealer turns down a job, especially in this economy, you have to believe them My '84 just turned 15,000 miles on the odometer. She sat for years after the original owner passed away. So although ignored, she has been a garage queen all her life. At 15000 miles I wouldn't change them either unless there is a bad feel to them. Didn't realize it was that low of mileage bike. Get that thing together an put some miles on it. RR
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