GolfVenture Posted September 21, 2012 #1 Posted September 21, 2012 Anyone have a good step by step procedure on how to swap an MKII carb. My 89 carbs are acting up and would like to put the carbs from my wrecked 91 in. Then I'll rebuild the 89 carb.
Peder_y2k Posted September 22, 2012 #2 Posted September 22, 2012 To swap the 4 carb cluster: Remove the battery, air cleaner assembly, left side outer fairing and inner side wall. Open the cable thingy and disconnect the two throttle cables routed to the carbs. Disconnect the fuel and vent hoses from the carb. Disconnect the choke cable. Loosen the carb to manifold clamps. Lift the carb assembly from the manifold booties. Work the carb group out the left side of the frame being cautious of the little drain hose barb such that it doesn't get caught and broken. Assemble by reversing the procedure. That's from memory.......... your mileage may vary. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88 Venture
Peder_y2k Posted September 22, 2012 #3 Posted September 22, 2012 Forgot to mention to also remove the battery box.
reddevilmedic Posted September 22, 2012 #4 Posted September 22, 2012 and the front wheel......just kiddin....
bongobobny Posted September 22, 2012 #5 Posted September 22, 2012 What Pedar said! You may have to be forceful getting the carbs off the boots even with the clamps loosened, I ended up using a pry bar to break them loose...
KIC Posted September 25, 2012 #6 Posted September 25, 2012 So I have a question.... I have read in different threads that the hardest part of the carb rack removal is the throttle cable connections.. reconnecting after the re installation of the rack. I think one member said it took him 6 hours of frustration to get it done. I was wondering if it was faster and easier to disconnect the throttle assembly on the handle bars and just drop the assembly down towards the triple tree, giving slack to the cables to disconnect and reconnect at the side of the bike before sliding the rack back in... ???
Peder_y2k Posted September 25, 2012 #7 Posted September 25, 2012 Shortest and easiest way is to connect the short throttle cables to the carb rack, then install the rack, then connect the cables to the thingy......wait, let me look up the proper name.... the Throttle Cable Joint.....where the cruise control cable enters the fray where 5 cables come together in one little plastic thingy. Only the short cables to the carb need readjustment tightening. This is absolutely the easiest and fastest and most reliable way known to man and the gods. Any other way is amateurish and risks cable damage. I can do a complete carb rack removal and reinstall in one hour aided by an electric screwdriver with 8in. #2 philips tip, that's right, 8 inches long. BTW, I am not for sale or rent, as I only work on my own bikes. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83, 88 Venture
KIC Posted September 25, 2012 #8 Posted September 25, 2012 Where did you get the 8-inch screw driver head ?
Condor Posted September 25, 2012 #9 Posted September 25, 2012 So I have a question.... I have read in different threads that the hardest part of the carb rack removal is the throttle cable connections.. reconnecting after the re installation of the rack. I think one member said it took him 6 hours of frustration to get it done. I was wondering if it was faster and easier to disconnect the throttle assembly on the handle bars and just drop the assembly down towards the triple tree, giving slack to the cables to disconnect and reconnect at the side of the bike before sliding the rack back in... ??? Good idea if they weren't a pull/pull setup. Even if you slacked off on everything you still have to deal with the junction box. The best and only way in... MHO.... is to remove the carb assembly out the left side and then remove the cables. Install them before mounting the carbs. BTW I also find the wooden handle of a small ballpeen hammer a better tool to do any prying if need be...
Peder_y2k Posted September 25, 2012 #10 Posted September 25, 2012 The long 8in. #2 philips screwdriver tips (and larger sizes) are found at the bigbox hardware stores like Lowes and Home Depot and others. I have two that I've used for many years, and found them to be a great advantage as one can get the tip in deep without the screwdriver tool interference blocking visibility and bumping adjacent parts. It is my first 'go to' tool for my motorcycles. When the electric screwdriver is ot powerful enough, I simply switch the tip to a manual and continue, and it even works OK with a small impact tool. They are carded and sold for around $6 -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
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