ddoggma Posted September 17, 2012 #1 Posted September 17, 2012 I got my used collector today in the mail. $90.00 shipped from cyclepsycho.com It needs the tabs for the front mount rewelded, but it looks to be in good shape otherwise. Should I paint it with a anti rust paint or something. Before I install it? I also have to snug up one of the rear exhaust pipes, cause it can be wiggled a little.
GaryZ Posted September 17, 2012 #2 Posted September 17, 2012 The stock collector is stainless steel and shouldn't need paint.
dingy Posted September 18, 2012 #3 Posted September 18, 2012 The stock collector is stainless steel and shouldn't need paint. Did not know about stock being SS. So being the doubter than I am, I just checked my spare. It appears to be very low magnetic S.S. in the body area, but the connectors on the ends are very magnetic which leads me to think they are regular steel. Especially considering the ones I have seen that have been rusted badly at the connector area. Gary
ddoggma Posted September 18, 2012 Author #5 Posted September 18, 2012 I heard it will. Its in one of the other collector threads, somewheres
ddoggma Posted September 19, 2012 Author #8 Posted September 19, 2012 It's on the bike and all seems well. The hard part for me was getting the backside of the collector up onto the back headers enough to bolt up the mufflers. Thought I missed em, with the collector nipples. But after some banging it was up far enough. More power, runs way better...doh! Now I need a carb sync.
timgray Posted September 19, 2012 #9 Posted September 19, 2012 do we have to have the collector? cant a bike shop weld up a pair of Y pipes and call it done?
JohnT Posted September 20, 2012 #10 Posted September 20, 2012 do we have to have the collector? cant a bike shop weld up a pair of Y pipes and call it done? I just saw a picture on here or The Ventureres of just such a "pipe shop" collector. One thing I was thinking of is having a set made that connect the back cylinders to one side and the fronts to the other. My thinking is that would make for easier removal. Pros or cons? I just scored a mint set of Street Glide take offs I want to try. And if anyone is interested in another set they can be had for $50 to $75 (I would have to ask him to be sure.) Getting close to down time season here it seems. In the 30's tonight.
dingy Posted September 20, 2012 #11 Posted September 20, 2012 I just saw a picture on here or The Ventureres of just such a "pipe shop" collector. One thing I was thinking of is having a set made that connect the back cylinders to one side and the fronts to the other. My thinking is that would make for easier removal. Pros or cons? I just scored a mint set of Street Glide take offs I want to try. And if anyone is interested in another set they can be had for $50 to $75 (I would have to ask him to be sure.) Getting close to down time season here it seems. In the 30's tonight. One of the things I have learned about the exhausts is a term 'Scavenging'. This is a name for tying cylinders together that are opposite the pair being tied to an exhaust stroke. This keeps the gases flowing in the tubes and helps evacuate the cylinder when exhaust valve is open. The firing sequence on the Venture is 1-3-4-2. Front Left (1) Front Right (3) Rear Right (4) Rear Left (2) So by tying every other cylinder together is said to be optimal. This would mean tying Front Left (1) & Rear Right (4) and tying Front Right (3) & Rear Left (2). This is what the Marks collector does. In a sense, it is a 'Y' pipe on each side, but one leg of the 'Y' swaps sides. Picture attached because description of 'Y' pipes is not clear. Also learned that 4 exhaust pipes hurt horsepower drastically. This is coming from the VMax side, those guys are all about power and what works. Gary
Venturous Randy Posted September 20, 2012 #12 Posted September 20, 2012 (edited) One of the things I have learned about the exhausts is a term 'Scavenging'. This is a name for tying cylinders together that are opposite the pair being tied to an exhaust stroke. This keeps the gases flowing in the tubes and helps evacuate the cylinder when exhaust valve is open. Gary Proper savaging does have an impact for better power output, but to make it even more effective, it is also important to consider equal pipe length. With the rear pipes being a bit shorter than the front pipes, it would be difficult to determine which combination of paired cylinders would work best. It may even match better at one RPM and be counter productive at another RPM. RandyA Edited September 20, 2012 by Venturous Randy
icebrrg3rd Posted September 20, 2012 #13 Posted September 20, 2012 Plus throw into the facts that our engines are at a 70° vee and not 90°, so they aren't firing evenly, so that 1-3-4-2 firing is 1 - 180° - 3 - 70° - 4 - 180° - 2 - 290° - 1. So they are not firing exactly on the exhaust stroke of their "opposite" cylinder. That said, I still want a Marks collector, or at least make a copy of one myself. -Andrew
Prairiehammer Posted September 20, 2012 #14 Posted September 20, 2012 Front Left (1) Front Right (3) Rear Right (4) Rear Left (2) Gary Umm, That ain't right, Gary. #1 is left rear #2 is left front #3 is right rear #4 is right front Cylinder
dingy Posted September 21, 2012 #15 Posted September 21, 2012 Umm, That ain't right, Gary. #1 is left rear #2 is left front #3 is right rear #4 is right front Cylinder It sounded good for 9:30 at night. You are correct, but same principle applies with the corrected designation. Once again, I am the village idiot. I do try though. Gary
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