coolant getting to the oil

[OrlinEngh]

I added some coolant to the small tank it was empty the radator is full and over night the small tank was empty, and the oil level was up. I changed the oil refilled the small tank to the full mark took it for a ride and it was pushing the coolant back into the small tank to where it would over flow.

There is no white smoke from the exsust and it runs fine. I am hopeing that this wasnt the reason for the PO to trade it off. I Talked with the PO and he told me that he had just put a new thermotat and cap on the radiator.

There is no coolant on the floor.

Am I looking at a blown head gasket or could the water pump be leaking on the inside or the cylinder water jacket joint.

Orlin

[pmelah]

im more inclined to believe a blown head gasket as the culprit could be when the PO put a new cap on the pressure found the weak spot on the head gasket just a thought i know this happened to one of our company vehicles

[dingy]

I added some coolant to the small tank it was empty the radator is full and over night the small tank was empty, and the oil level was up. I changed the oil refilled the small tank to the full mark took it for a ride and it was pushing the coolant back into the small tank to where it would over flow.

There is no white smoke from the exsust and it runs fine. I am hopeing that this wasnt the reason for the PO to trade it off. I Talked with the PO and he told me that he had just put a new thermotat and cap on the radiator.

There is no coolant on the floor.

Am I looking at a blown head gasket or could the water pump be leaking on the inside or the cylinder water jacket joint.

Orlin

 

 

Could be anyone of three.

 

Head gasket will probably give you a lot of foaming in oil due to pressure of blowby.

 

Water pump carbide seal may have failed if motor was over heated and cold water added and contacted hot seal seat causing fracture.

 

The head bypass joints would be a low failure point in my opinion, they are a fairly robust design.

 

Could also be an o-ring failure in the 'Twinkie" between the front & rear cylinders at the crankcase.

 

Gary

[frankd]

The water pump shaft has a drain, so it is unlikely that that is your problem. It sounds like your coolant system was very low and has a lot of air in it. However, if the coolant is getting into the oil, that makes it more serious. There is what some call a 'twinkie' in the 'V' between the cylinder banks, on the right side. There is an Oring or seal in it that has leaked on some bikes. You can see where the coolant hoses go to it. It also could be a blown head gasket. This has also happened to a couple of Ventures. You could pull the spark plugs and see if any are real clean. If they look like they're brand new, that's the cylinder that's leaking. To get all the air (or combustion gas) out of the coolant system, you need to turn the thermostat bypass to the bypass position. This bypass is in front of the motor, just a little above the oil filter, and it has an approx. 3/4" hex head on it. It should be in the normal position now. Take a marker that you can see (red or white?) and mark the hex so you'll know where the normal position is. Then turn the hex either way until you feel the indent again. This will be the bypass position and now the coolant will circulate freely and all of the air can work out. Usually I have the radiator cap off when I do this. BTW, make sure the radiator is FULL before you run the air out. After you get the air out, you can turn the bypass valve back to the normal position (where you marked it).

 

If the oil level goes up, you are getting coolant in the crankcase. Coolant in the oil will trash the bearings and the motor will be history. I don't mean to scare you, but don't ignore this.

 

Frank D.

[pmelah]

dam i love this site you learn something new every day and it only cost me 12 bucks :cool10:

[dingy]

The water pump shaft has a drain, so it is unlikely that that is your problem.

Frank D.

Frank is correct on water pump, it would be dripping, my bad !!

 

Gary

[OrlinEngh]

I pulled the sparkplugs and none of them look like new they havent been in there that long but they look used not clean like they have been washed. I took the air cleaner off but the hose was not hooked up but i didnt see any of the white stuff on the inside of the hose. There isnt any on the filer cap for the oil either.

I will take the twinkie off tomarrow and see what I find there.

Orlin

[MikeWa]

"Pushing coolant back into the small tank where it would overflow" takes pressure. Pressure can come from two places. Air in the cooling system getting hot and expanding. Combustion pressure getting past a head gasket.

 

 

Make sure the cooling fan is working. Make sure the thermostat is installed correctly and opening. Make sure the cooling system is completely filled and all air bled out. If the symptom persists use a leak down tester to check for bubbles in the cooling system.

 

A leak down tester can be fabricated by adapting an air fitting to a compression tester hose. Then with the engine rotated so both valves are closed apply 100 + psi to the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Be careful as the air pressure will push the piston down and cause the engine to turn. Make sure you are in neutral and away from moving parts. Watch for tell air bubbles in the cooling system.

 

Mike

[mbrood]

It wouldn't be the first "twinkie" that was reported to be leaking between the oil and water!

[OrlinEngh]

I took the twinkie off and the rubber seals were hard but I couldnt see any brakes in them, I noticed that there had been some sealer on them, can I use these over again with alittle sealer,

I havent found any of the white sludge anywhere so far it was nice and clean under the twinkie and inside and there isnt any on the filler cap for the oil,

I changed the oil and let it set and idle for allmost a half hour with the drain valve turned then turned it back and the temp gauge stayed a little above the half way mark so I took it for a 12 mile ride road speed and slow and it held there untill I got home and checked the small tank and it was filling back up again and heated up to the red mark on the gauge.

I drained the oil it is brown in color and not milky looking. I talked with a guy the sevice dept where I got it and he said sounds like air in the cooling system, and I may have a sticky float that is causeing the oil to level to come up.

Orlin

[dingy]

I took the twinkie off and the rubber seals were hard but I couldnt see any brakes in them, I noticed that there had been some sealer on them, can I use these over again with alittle sealer,

I havent found any of the white sludge anywhere so far it was nice and clean under the twinkie and inside and there isnt any on the filler cap for the oil,

I changed the oil and let it set and idle for allmost a half hour with the drain valve turned then turned it back and the temp gauge stayed a little above the half way mark so I took it for a 12 mile ride road speed and slow and it held there untill I got home and checked the small tank and it was filling back up again and heated up to the red mark on the gauge.

I drained the oil it is brown in color and not milky looking. I talked with a guy the sevice dept where I got it and he said sounds like air in the cooling system, and I may have a sticky float that is causeing the oil to level to come up.

Orlin

 

There is a small tube inside the twinkie that passes oil under pressure to the heads and to the cam bearings. I would recommend you replace these 2 orings at least. They are odd ball square cut o-rings that you probably won't find at a hardware store. The large gasket between the twinkie & block should probably be replaced. The one between the 2 halfs of the twinkie may be ok if you haven't split twinkie in halfs.

 

The copper crush washers are to replace the ones on the metal oil tube splitter to the heads.

 

twinkie gasket lower - 26H-12427-00-00 (radiator hose tab)

twinkie gasket upper - 26H-12428-00-00 (radiator hose tab)

bypass tube o-rings (2) - 93210-06667-00 (oil filter tab)

large copper crush washer (2) - 90201-10128-00 (oil filter tab)

small copper crush washer (4) - 90201-08087-00 (oil filter tab)

 

Gary

[OrlinEngh]

Okay after taking the twinkie off the water pump and seeing that all looked nice and clean no sighns of coolant in the oil and draining the oil and no sighns of any there. And when I called about gaskets I got to talk with one of the guys at the Yamaha shop here in Lacrosse and he said that I could rule out a bad head gasket that I had done most of what he would have done. And his thought was air in the cooing system and a stuck needle or float in the carb and it was fule building up in the oil.

Same thing that the place I got it from said and what was said on here. So I did things to get the air out. This morning the coolant was the same as when I got done yesterday.

While I had the air box off I sprayed carb cleaner down into the carbs and found that number three had no change so I kept sprying the carb cleaner in and it started to work.

So I took it for a short ride came home parked it and shut the fule off and the oil level stayed the same over night. Sure hope I have gotten to bottom of this going to try and get out for a test ride today. Thanks for all of the help. Orlin

[Flyinfool]

SEAFOAM.........

 

It will help to get any residual crud out of the carbs.