Front Brakes still soft after bleeding

[alta55rsv]

Good morning:

 

I've just finished replacing my brake, throttle and clutch lines with SS units and my handlebar with a Flanders model. All went pretty well, but my front brake lever does not have a firm feel to it and the bike can be moved, with some effort, with the brakes applied. I have checked all my connections for tightness and there was no air in the system when I bled the lines yesterday. A check of the service manual doesn't lead me to what could be wrong.

 

So what could I have missed or done wrong? Is there some adjustment at the lever itself which needs to be performed (the manual doesn't indicate anything)? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

I do believe in "old college tries" and will bleed the lines again with a vacuum pump. The reservoir is angled slightly back (not horizontal when the handlebars are turned left), but I don't think that should have a bearing on a closed system.

 

Thanks in advance to all who can lend a hand.

 

Regards,

 

Eric S.

"alta55rsv"

[Greekdog]

Check the bleeder hole in the bottom of the MC. Sometimes some trash gets in there and prevents the tiny air bubbles from escaping into the MC. I took a small drill bit and opened up the hole and re-bled the lines and it worked fine.

[djh3]

I would suspect air trapped in either the calipers or possibly by the master. Try a light tap on the master with like a plastic screwdriver handle while static. Also try the same as you are bleeding the calipers. Sometimes this will dislodge bubbles if trapped. I replaced 2 rear wheel cyl on my wifes Durango. It kept feeling spongy. This wasnt my first rodeo on brake maintenance. It took me alomst a pint to get the air out of just the rears. It may take some time, perhaps the vaccum bleed is the solution. Your not the first ti write in about front brakes soft after maintnance.

[Guest scarylarry]

I have taken the top off of the brake res. and VERY slowly work the level back and forth and that will get any air as well...

 

If there is any in there you will see very small bubbles and it might also burp one time..

 

Be d**n sure to cover underneath brake does not like paint or plastic

[van avery]

Try a straight edge on the rotor.

I had one on an old goldwing that I could not get hard. Finally found that the rotor was warpped like a bowl. That was enough to make the travel too much. Drove me nuts for quite a while. I even replaced the master cylinder ( after a rebuild on the original), new brake lines and bleeding the system about 20 times, etc.

[MikeM]

I've had this several times.

TRY THIS....

Get a bungee cord,rope etc and pull the brake lever in as far as you can.

Hold it in and wrap something around the grip and lever so it will hold the lever in.

Let it sit overnite.

Release it in the morning and check for firmness.

I don't remember where I heard this trick or what happens but somehow it manages to get the hidden air out of the system.

I learned this trick some forty years ago and it's worked every time I've tried it.

Edited September 10, 2012 by MikeM

[djh3]

AHHHH a perfict use of duct tape. I like that saying if it moves and shouldnt you need duct tape, if it dont move and should use WD 40 and if that dont work get a bigger hammer. I have now learned somehow I need to work in Sea Foam. Hmmmm

[Condor]

Go invest in some Speed-Bleeders. You'll be happy you did, and the next time you bleed the brakes it'll be a piece of cake. Don't forget to replace the rear brake and clutch valves as well.....