RV furnace

[Trader]

Well...that is what I would expect a "thermocouple" to look like! (pic #4)

 

So you're probably on the right track by replacing it.

[Yamak]

Knows his stuff!! I would listen to him. Ng service tech in ak.

[wrenchrob]

Well...that is what I would expect a "thermocouple" to look like! (pic #4)

 

So you're probably on the right track by replacing it.

Pic 2 3 and 4 are all the same component. It is the ignitorbut im wondering if it can be dual purpose. ignitor and flame sense. Will find out in a coupls days when I locte one.

[uncledj]

Yes, that's an electrode, and yes, it's possible that they're using it to sense flame also.

While I've never seen one like it, the fact that it has the additional bend at the end to put more of the rod into the flame seems to support this.

If you could post info on the type of ignition control, or at least post how the terminals are marked, I could probably tell you for sure.

 

Be aware though, this is NOT a thermocouple. Thermocouple and flame rod are two completely different beasts.

Have you tried cleaning it yet?

Be aware that there must be a good ground path from the burner back to the module for it to sense.

Edited September 9, 2012 by uncledj

[Ozlander]

If you need a board, get one from

 

http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm

 

Their boards are better and cheeeeper than OEM.

[wrenchrob]

Yes, that's an electrode, and yes, it's possible that they're using it to sense flame also.

While I've never seen one like it, the fact that it has the additional bend at the end to put more of the rod into the flame seems to support this.

If you could post info on the type of ignition control, or at least post how the terminals are marked, I could probably tell you for sure.

 

Be aware though, this is NOT a thermocouple. Thermocouple and flame rod are two completely different beasts.

Have you tried cleaning it yet?

Be aware that there must be a good ground path from the burner back to the module for it to sense.

Hey unc, I think it is some type of flame sense. I have .95v coming out of it with the wire disconnected and the burner running. So i think the logical thing woild be to replace it and see what happens and if that does not fix it than it must be in the board. It wouldnt hurt to have a spare ignitor kicking around anyways. Ijust want to say thanks for your and everyone elses that had an input for me. If any of you have any questions about your FORD MOTOR COMPANY vehicle ( no wise cracks) please DO NOT hesitate to ask. ANything from technical advice to wiring diagrams as I have beem a mechanic for 24 years and 20 years at a FORD dealership specializing in the super duty but not limited to.

[Leland]

Like others have said, you have a combination flame-rod/ignitor. the straight rod is just the ground. I don't know what control board you have, but typically the flame current is read in DC microamps. Many multi-meters have this range, indicated by "µ". They typically need at least 1µ. To read the flame signal on a combination flame-rod/ignitor you typically remove the Ground wire from the control board and put your meter leads in series with the ground wire and back to the control board. But this is all dependent on what type of control board you have.

[uncledj]

Something you can try, if you have no way to read micro-amps is to take a copper core spark plug wire, strip about an inch or so from one end, then connect the other end to the ignition module in place of the existing spark / sense wire.

Put it into and ignition sequence and hold the stripped end close enough to spark to the ground rod (next to the ignitor rod) and let it light, making sure the copper wire is fully in the flame. The ignition module should sense the flame and continue to burn. If it still shuts down after 5 seconds, chances are that the module is bad.

I've done this a couple of times in a pinch when I needed to confirm a bad flame sensor. The sensor is simply a steel rod, so it's pretty rare that they go bad, but it does happen.

[winston66]

Winston 66

wonders

Does your unit rely on a positive water pressure flow as an active interlock to be there before any gass flow will be available foe the burner.

I believe that this is what is required for the safe operation on many of the household domestic type water heaters.

Cheers

Winston66

Northampton, Western Australia:fingers-crossed-emo:lightbulb:

[wrenchrob]

Just a little feedback on my RVfurnace problem. Ended up requiring a new control board. I tried one out of my bosses motorhome and all worked good so I bought one from Campout rv in Stratford (small home town of Justin Bieber) and now the heat works again. Just wanted to say thanks to all who gave there input into this concern I had and like I stated earler I am a Ford technician for many years now specializing but not limited to diesel and would be insulted if anyone on this site had or has a Ford problem and did not ask me. You have scratched my back and I would do the same for you. Rob

[uncledj]

Glad to hear that you got your heater goin'. You'll be needing it pretty soon.

I don't have a question, but would like your opinion on something Ford related.

 

I bought a 2001 motorhome with a Ford Workhorse Chassis. It has the Triton V10 in it. What do ya think of the motor, and is there anything I should be on the lookout for?

I'm planning on keeping this thing for a while, so I want to make sure I can head any problems off at the pass.

Thanks:cool10:

[wrenchrob]

Glad to hear that you got your heater goin'. You'll be needing it pretty soon.

I don't have a question, but would like your opinion on something Ford related.

 

I bought a 2001 motorhome with a Ford Workhorse Chassis. It has the Triton V10 in it. What do ya think of the motor, and is there anything I should be on the lookout for?

I'm planning on keeping this thing for a while, so I want to make sure I can head any problems off at the pass.

Thanks:cool10:

The triton engine family is an excellent engine. The newer (2005 and up 3 valves per cylinder) sometimes and valve train problems such as lifters,broken springs and variable camshaft sprocket concerns but the V10 yur interested in is great. You have to watch that th sparkplugs dont come loose and fly out though taking the coil on plug with it. Just check or replace once a year. Also you have to watch for especially in motorhome cases due to the heat that the exhaust manifold to cylinder mounting studs are not broke. If they break it can be a pita to replace and usually results in a warped manifold. I think it is common for all engines and manifolds in motorhomes to have this concern. I have V10 in my Excursion and pull about a 9000 lb trailer easily with the factory gearing. Although I do not tow through the mountains and if i did lower gears would be needed.

[Gary N.]

I bought a 2001 motorhome with a Ford Workhorse Chassis.

 

I thinks you'll find that you have a "Ford Chassis", not a "Ford Workhorse Chassis". Workhorse bought the old General Motors chassis division and used the GM big block engines. They have since sold out to International Trucks and there are no more GM big blocks.

[uncledj]

I thinks you'll find that you have a "Ford Chassis", not a "Ford Workhorse Chassis". Workhorse bought the old General Motors chassis division and used the GM big block engines. They have since sold out to International Trucks and there are no more GM big blocks.

 

2001 Challenger.prod 2 - RVUSA.com

 

 

Could be...I was just going by what it says in the brochure.