Trader Posted September 8, 2012 #1 Posted September 8, 2012 I have rear running lights which are wired directly to the ACC fuse block thru an illuminated switch. (switch lights when rear lights are on) What I want to accomplish is to add a relay feeding this switch and a 2nd switch for my front running lights. I already have the 2nd illuminated switch mounted on the dash.....now I just need to know how to wire it up! I have this wiring diagram for relays (see attachement) but CAN or should I run 2 switches off one relay? and how would I do it?
djh3 Posted September 8, 2012 #2 Posted September 8, 2012 I think if you do it off one relay both sets of lights are going to come on when either switch is thrown. If this is what you want to accomplish front and rear lights on at same time you can run off one relay depending on the electrical load.
Carbon_One Posted September 8, 2012 #3 Posted September 8, 2012 You could run both switches off the same relay depending on the load of both circuts. Most auto relays will handle 30 amps. In your drawing one thing I would chance is rather then taking power for the switch from the battery (green line) I would use a key on circuit so those lights can't be turned on until the key is on. That will prevent a dead battery if someone was to toggle your switches. Why not just run both front and rear running lights off the same swtch . Those bulbs don't pull that much in amps? Use the 2nd switch and a 2nd relay to turn on/off the low beam headlight circut. Larry
Trader Posted September 8, 2012 Author #4 Posted September 8, 2012 Maybe using the wrong term. The rear are running lights, along with front marker lights. The front lights I want to connect to a 2nd switch are DRIVING lights. Good point on the "keyed" power though.
Flyinfool Posted September 9, 2012 #6 Posted September 9, 2012 DID SOMEONE MENTION RELAYS ????? Down boy..........
Flyinfool Posted September 9, 2012 #7 Posted September 9, 2012 If you run two switches to one relay either switch will turn on everything connected to the relay. To do what I think you want to do you will need 2 relays. Easy Cougar.......
uncledj Posted September 9, 2012 #9 Posted September 9, 2012 Depends on what ratings the switches have also. The only reason to run a relay at all is if the load of the lights is higher than what the switch can handle on its own. Driving lights can easily be a heavy enough load that a typical switch won't handle it. The marker lights shouldn't be an issue. If you have heavy enough switches, you don't need the relay(s) at all.
saddlebum Posted September 9, 2012 #10 Posted September 9, 2012 (edited) I am not sure if I fully understand what it is you want to do but I am assuming you want to be able to turn off one set of lights, independantly of the other. Here is the way I would do it. Use a separate relay for each set of lights. Run the yellow wire shown in your diagram to terminal 85 of each relay used so that they will all function from the one main switch. Each relay can have a separate fused red wire running to terminal 30 so that they would be independantly fused. Now here is were you make them independant. Instead of running the wire from 86 directly to ground, install a toggle switch on this ground wire, between the relay 86 terminal and ground (one for each relay). I if you leave these switches on the relays will work together off of the main switch. But you can independantly shut off each relay by flicking the switch or switches you have installed in the ground wires. These do not have to be heavy duty switches they can actually be very small switches as the relay itself draws very little currant. Edited September 9, 2012 by saddlebum
djh3 Posted September 9, 2012 #11 Posted September 9, 2012 One power from the acc side should be able to go to booth relays I would think. All its doing is holding the contact closed. I agree, the running lights probably are not an issue with draw especially if they are LED type. The driving/passing lights (light bar) definatly need a seperate power wire if its the factory wires we are talking about. You are lucky to run them 35w off the factory supplied wires. Mine melted the fuse holder.
djh3 Posted September 9, 2012 #13 Posted September 9, 2012 I would also suggest that when you install your fuse for any added on device, use one of them nice ones they have at like autozone or advance that splices right inline and uses the same fuse as the rest of your bike. Not like the bottle fuse my lights had. http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/bsm/BP-HHM-RP/image/4/
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