Tire change new RSTD

[GeorgeS]

The new RSTD, ( well new 3 months ago ) just turned 5900 miles. I put the narrow E3 on the front yesterday, and took out for test ride. Yes!! it is better handling, then the OEM Bridgestone.

Today, I installed the new Rear E3. and greesed the drive shaft, and rear spline.

 

And yes, it does feel better with the E3 on the rear. So my point here is to confirm all the past comments I have read about changeing the OEM tires on the 2nd Gen. Handles better, and feels more like a 1st Gen

 

Also, the Rear Bridgestone, would have been bald at about 7,000 miles, But decided to remove it today.

 

And, Yes, there was hardley any Factory installed Greese, on the rear Drive spline, or on the drive shaft splines !!!

 

If you have never pulled your rear drive unit, or drive shaft, be sure to do this job, and get you hands Greessy !!!

Edited August 29, 2012 by GeorgeS

[Miles]

GeorgeS, please keep me informed as to how this works for you...mileage...handling...etc, in the long run. I am very interested. Before I change out my wheels and go for a 16" rear, and a 17" front, I want to hear what you think of your new combo, with the narrow from E3 on there. I know others have tried a narrow tire on the front, but...

[djh3]

So did you pull the drive shaft all the way out and lube up both ends? I have an upcomming tire change comming on m 09 RSV, I figure while I got the rear off I'm going to split the unit and lube the splines on both ends if it is not a huge PIA. I am guessing that if I unbolt the 3-4 bolts @ the rear gear drive that unit is sealed and all my gear lube is self contained and not going to run out. Going to do the drive pins on the rear wheel also as..... well hell I'm here and dressed. The front I'm mounting up is the 130/90 and stock size rear, both in the Michelin Commander II. We have a trip planned in mid Oct to Franklin NC area and will mount up prior to trip to have good shoes on bike.

[GeorgeS]

GeorgeS, please keep me informed as to how this works for you...mileage...handling...etc, in the long run. I am very interested. Before I change out my wheels and go for a 16" rear, and a 17" front, I want to hear what you think of your new combo, with the narrow from E3 on there. I know others have tried a narrow tire on the front, but...

 

Well I ran an E-2 and E-3 on the 89. 1st one went 22K, the 2nd one the E-3 I pulled off and replaced at 17,300 miles, and it would have eaisly gone another 2 to 3 K !!

 

I got about 14K from an Avon, and 15K on a Conti. on the 89.

 

Also, I cross cut the old E-2 Caseing, after removeing it. Point here is that the caseing on the Elite Series dunlops. is 1/2 inch thick, Plus the tread depth.

 

As compared to the D-400 Series Dunlops, the caseing is only 1/4 inch thick. Not sure on the Avons, or Metzlers, how thick the caseing is. ??

 

Bottom line is, I'm sold on the Elite series Dunlops!!! I'm going to try one on my Hyabusa soon. Dunlop now has a replacement for the stock Bridgestones that are used on the Busa's. Will see how that plays out.

[star4772]

The new RSTD, ( well new 3 months ago ) just turned 5900 miles. I put the narrow E3 on the front yesterday, and took out for test ride. Yes!! it is better handling, then the OEM Bridgestone.

Today, I installed the new Rear E3. and greesed the drive shaft, and rear spline.

 

And yes, it does feel better with the E3 on the rear. So my point here is to confirm all the past comments I have read about changeing the OEM tires on the 2nd Gen. Handles better, and feels more like a 1st Gen

 

Also, the Rear Bridgestone, would have been bald at about 7,000 miles, But decided to remove it today.

 

And, Yes, there was hardley any Factory installed Greese, on the rear Drive spline, or on the drive shaft splines !!!

 

If you have never pulled your rear drive unit, or drive shaft, be sure to do this job, and get you hands Greessy !!!

 

What tire size did you put on the front and what size did you put on the rear. I have an 08 with my stock Brickstones on with about 8500 miles and still have good tread. I will finish out the season and replace over winter. Also did you leave the leveling links stock or change them out. I am just wondering if running the links and skinney tire is a good Idea or not. I am thinkign of putting back stock links and going with smaller tire. I will also greese everything up at that time. Whats your opinion?

 

Joe

[playboy]

So did you pull the drive shaft all the way out and lube up both ends? I have an upcomming tire change comming on m 09 RSV, I figure while I got the rear off I'm going to split the unit and lube the splines on both ends if it is not a huge PIA. I am guessing that if I unbolt the 3-4 bolts @ the rear gear drive that unit is sealed and all my gear lube is self contained and not going to run out. Going to do the drive pins on the rear wheel also as..... well hell I'm here and dressed. The front I'm mounting up is the 130/90 and stock size rear, both in the Michelin Commander II. We have a trip planned in mid Oct to Franklin NC area and will mount up prior to trip to have good shoes on bike.

 

 

The Driveshaft comes out when you remove the four acorn nuts and remove the final drive. But it is best to drain the oil before and go ahead and change it. No it won't be a sealed unit the grease will run out the speedometer cable hole if turned in the wrong direction I learned this after draining mine all over kregerdoodles driveway. Kind of embarrassing but hey it was a maintenance day and I learned something.

[djh3]

I just changed the rearend lube 1 oil change ago to syn. I hate to just chuck it out. I got a couple weeks before I'm going to tackle the job. Thanks for the heads up on the spedo pick up guys. Is the shaft held in with anything? Or is it simply held in place by the gearhousing? I was thinking for some reason I saw the front part of the drive shaft out and it had a snap ring on it.