Mattressdancer Posted August 28, 2012 #1 Posted August 28, 2012 Can someone show mw a picture of where the wiring harness is under the seat, or am i best to hook up behind the lisence plate?
Rickster Posted August 28, 2012 #2 Posted August 28, 2012 I used the harness that M16A1MECH sells, it's quick and easy. Just remove your seat and behind the battery on the left side you will see where the harness is. Just disconnect that and plug in the jumper harness he makes, instructions are easy.
Rickster Posted August 28, 2012 #3 Posted August 28, 2012 You can hook it directly into the wires behind the plate and it will work fine. It is recommended that you use an isolator however. If you ever get a short in the trailer wiring or something of that nature, the isolator will prevent any damage or losing the lights on your bike. Don __________________
dacheedah Posted August 28, 2012 #4 Posted August 28, 2012 I would grab it under the seat, using an isolator you also need to grab a fused positive for the isolator. Getting the kit means you can do your work on the bench, unplug the factory harness and plug it in with no factory wires cut or splices. Removal just as easy. For the tail lights they have a bullet connectors, you can do the same thing but not as easy to hide here and you have to find a place to put the isolator.
Rickster Posted August 28, 2012 #5 Posted August 28, 2012 This is where I tied in with Steve's harness, hope this helps. I used a hopkins isolater as well. [ATTACH]70998[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]70999[/ATTACH]
Mattressdancer Posted August 28, 2012 Author #6 Posted August 28, 2012 Thx. I am buying a 5 to 4 wire converter so I will put in in behind the battery.
Flyinfool Posted August 28, 2012 #7 Posted August 28, 2012 Don't just get a converter, the isolator is not much more and it is far better. The Isolator has only one more wire to hook up than a converter, a fused power lead to the battery. Make sure that whichever one you get is compatible with both incandescent and LED trailer lights. There are some that can only do one or the other.
Mattressdancer Posted August 28, 2012 Author #8 Posted August 28, 2012 Thx for the info, I will take a look what kind I am getting:225:
playboy Posted August 28, 2012 #9 Posted August 28, 2012 Definitely under the seat and PLEASE do yourself a favor and get Steve's wiring harness. Trust us when we tell you how much easier it makes things and not just cause it's easy but look under your seat and find the plug Rickster showed you in his pic and you can see for yourself how little room on the bikes wiring harness you have to work with. I know I tried it the first time. That harness will make your installation trouble free for a long time.
etcswjoe Posted August 28, 2012 #10 Posted August 28, 2012 I just ordered one to hook my new trailer up.
ronjolly Posted August 28, 2012 #11 Posted August 28, 2012 I used the harness that M16A1MECH sells, it's quick and easy. Just remove your seat and behind the battery on the left side you will see where the harness is. Just disconnect that and plug in the jumper harness he makes, instructions are easy. do you have his address??? wood like to order one also. Or how can I order one???
etcswjoe Posted August 28, 2012 #12 Posted August 28, 2012 do you have his address??? wood like to order one also. Or how can I order one??? Just PM him M61A1MECH
M61A1MECH Posted August 29, 2012 #13 Posted August 29, 2012 You can PM me at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com or use the PM system here on the forum. Include your name, address, quanity and year model of your bike. I will send you a harness on approval. When you get the harness and are sure it is what you want and it works for your application, send me a check, money order or cash to the address on the invoice.
XV1100SE Posted August 29, 2012 #14 Posted August 29, 2012 First time round I put in an isolator. When it appeared to be no longer working I put in a converter because it was something like $30 cheaper. What I found was that the 4 ways no longer worked on the trailer unless the engine was running. Everything else was fine though. Already planning on going back to an isolator over the Winter. Would like to find one at a reasonable price though. (remember... I'm in Canada so whatever the U.S. price is, add 15-30%)
Guest tx2sturgis Posted August 29, 2012 #15 Posted August 29, 2012 What I found was that the 4 ways no longer worked on the trailer unless the engine was running. Everything else was fine though. On my bike the 4 way hazard flasher wont work unless the ignition is in the ON position. Its unrelated to the trailer wiring. So if the owner has run out of gas, or had a flat tire, and would like to have the 4 ways on, he also needs to leave the ignition on. This seems like a dumb thing to me, since a rider might need to have only the hazard flashers on at the side of the road, instead of just in 'parade duty'....but it is what it is.
XV1100SE Posted August 29, 2012 #16 Posted August 29, 2012 On my bike the 4 way hazard flasher wont work unless the ignition is in the ON position. Its unrelated to the trailer wiring. So if the owner has run out of gas, or had a flat tire, and would like to have the 4 ways on, he also needs to leave the ignition on. This seems like a dumb thing to me, since a rider might need to have only the hazard flashers on at the side of the road, instead of just in 'parade duty'....but it is what it is. You are correct that the emergency 4-way flasher won't work unless the ignition is in the "on" position (regardless of whether engine running or not). Agree with you that this is dumb since if I'm parked at the side of the road I want my 4-way to work without key in ignition (for example if I have to leave the bike on the side of the road and walk to get assistance, or even if I need to use the key to unlock a saddle bag). To clarify what I said... in my bike's current configuration with a converter, with the key turned to "on" (engine not running), the 4 way flashers on the trailer will not work. Signal lights and brakes will work without engine running (LED lighting on trailer btw). For the 4-ways to work on the trailer the engine has to be running. With an isolator (power directly to battery with in-line fuse), the 4-way flasher on the trailer will work with the key in the "on" position whether the engine is running or not. Having the battery connection must boost the power sent to the trailer lights. ....but it is what it is. Anyone ever look at changing the wiring so that the 4-ways can work regardless of key position? Can see this as a potential issue if accidentally left on and battery drained... but has anyone considered doing a by-pass ?
Mattressdancer Posted August 29, 2012 Author #17 Posted August 29, 2012 Thx for all the advice. I installed the trailer wiring last night, converter fit nice behind the battery, used all heat shrik butt conectors and lomb, looks and works great!!
Brake Pad Posted August 30, 2012 #18 Posted August 30, 2012 GREAT, lets see a picture of this trailer.....
etcswjoe Posted September 1, 2012 #19 Posted September 1, 2012 Thx for all the advice. I installed the trailer wiring last night, converter fit nice behind the battery, used all heat shrik butt conectors and lomb, looks and works great!! Which converter did you use?
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