WilCruise Posted November 7, 2006 #1 Posted November 7, 2006 Everyone seems to like the Morgan Carbtune here. Can someone explain why this is so good vs. other mercury / vacuum / carb synch tools? I need to do synchs, want to get something, but don't want to wait for the Morgan unless it's signifigantly better than other products I can get faster. Thanks
Freebird Posted November 7, 2006 #2 Posted November 7, 2006 I can only offer my own opinion. I've used the mercury gauges and now I have the Carbtune and I will never go back to mercury. I think that the Carbtune gives better/smoother readings and you don't have to worry about the mercury getting sucked out which sometimes happens and then you have to worry about replacing the mercury and etc. The Carbtune is easy to use, easy to transport and I think will last forever with minimal maintenance.
Yammer Dan Posted November 7, 2006 #3 Posted November 7, 2006 J C Whitney has mecury tubes that work almost as well. About a two week delivery time when I got mine. Didn't know about Carb-Tune or I would have gotten it. Can't handle mecury tubes the way you can Carb-Tune.
V7Goose Posted November 8, 2006 #4 Posted November 8, 2006 I personally use a set of 4 vacuum gauges from JCW - had them for many many years and see no reason to consider anything else. They are just about indestructible and work very well. That is also the low cost option. Good luck Goose
Rich99 Posted November 8, 2006 #5 Posted November 8, 2006 I can only offer my own opinion. I've used the mercury gauges and now I have the Carbtune and I will never go back to mercury. I think that the Carbtune gives better/smoother readings and you don't have to worry about the mercury getting sucked out which sometimes happens and then you have to worry about replacing the mercury and etc. The Carbtune is easy to use, easy to transport and I think will last forever with minimal maintenance.Diddo!......what he said.
wizard Posted November 8, 2006 #6 Posted November 8, 2006 Anybody use the electronic gauges. I believe I saw one on the Aerostitch website for $83.00.
Yammer Dan Posted November 8, 2006 #7 Posted November 8, 2006 Haven't saw the electric ones. That would be interesting. How would they hook up and would they show weak spots in electrical system? Like TCI box?
Black Owl Posted November 8, 2006 #8 Posted November 8, 2006 Over the years I have used both the vacuum gauges and the merc sticks. Now have the Carb tune and will probably never use either the gauges or the merc stick again. Just my 2cents worth.
wizard Posted November 8, 2006 #9 Posted November 8, 2006 From what I read they hook up just like the vacuum gauges, but they measure the vacuum electronically, no moveing parts and hand sized. Perhaps like a mass air flow sensor?
LASER917 Posted November 9, 2006 #10 Posted November 9, 2006 I have/use the electronic guage. It has 2 ports. One goes to the reference cylinder the other to the the one being adjusted. On the adjustment port I have 2 aquarium air pump manifolds with 3 valves each. This way I can turn on or off whatever cylinder I wish to adjust. I have the 6 valves because I adjust some of my friends Honda wings and Valcs. This way you are always adjusting the carbs to the reference cylinder (#2 on our bikes), not 1 to 2, then 3 to 4, then 3/4 to 1/2. Works great for me. The gauge is like a MAP (manifold absolute pressure ) sensor on a car. The reference pulls a vacume on one side of the sensor and the adjustment port pulls on the other, the needle (or LED,s depending on make) shows the differance between the 2. This type of guage is for syncing carbs only. It is not, and does not give you a vacume reading, only the difference in vacume between 2 carbs.
WilCruise Posted November 9, 2006 Author #11 Posted November 9, 2006 Sent my carbtune order in last night. Thanks for the feedback.
wizard Posted November 10, 2006 #12 Posted November 10, 2006 I'd guess the electronic gages would be pretty accurate and easy to use. It looks like you can dial in the sensitivity. And that idea of using the fish tank valves is really neat! The manometer I made for the twin Triumphs will work on the Venture, but its always a hassle to have to move the lines and plugs. The prices for these seem to be better than the mercury sticks, even the standard gages were higher. How do they stand up to usage? Not like I have a shop or anything, but I'm sometimes a real klutz.
Tommy Posted November 13, 2006 #13 Posted November 13, 2006 I use the inexpensive round face vacuum gauges for all my bikes. The gauges I bought were around $50.00 Bucks US from JCW. I submit that you can get excellent carb. sync. results with these gauges if you take time to do a proper calibration. These guage sets may or may not be calibrated as they come from the factory. Mine were way off, and an acceptable result could not have been achieved. I calibrate my guages once a year, whether I think they need it or not. The procedure: You will need to borrow or purchase a Mity Vac Hand vacuum pump. If you are into your own motorcycle or car maintenance you probably already have one. Your vacuum guages will have a rubber hose you will attach to the guages. Attach the Mity Vac Hand pump to the other end of the hose on the first guage and pump the handle until the guage on the Mity Vac reads 14 inches. The Mity Vac and the carb. sync. tool guages should not leak or you will not be able to establish a static vacuum. If your guages leak down, check your hoses for a leak. Remove the clear plastic guage covers from the carb. sync. tool and set the needle to a reference point that is easy to remember. It really does not matter where you set the needle since all you doing is getting all needles to read the same at a specific vacuum. Move to the second guage and pump the hand vac to 14 inches and set the needle to the same reference point that you have chosen on the first guage. Move on to the third guage and set the hand vac to 14 inches and set the needle position as you did on the first two guages. Move to guage four and repeat the process. Again, all you are trying to do is get all guages, with a static reading of 14 inches, to read the same. Your guages will come with damper valves for each rubber line, which will slow needle fluctuations when you are actually syncing the carbs. with the engine running. That's all there is to it. Your guages are now calibrated and you should be happy with the carb. sync. results. I sync. my carbs. at around 2500 rpm. I know that some folks advocate syncing at idle...my response is, how often do you ride you bike at idle? Don't get in a hurry...take time to get each carb. as close to the reference carb. as you can. I do not use carb stix or mercury manometers as I do not want mercury in my garage. I am very fussy about my carburator maintenance, after spending most of my working career, (30 years) as a tool engineer for Marvel-Schebler/ Tillotson div. of Borg Warner. My company built carbs. for Harley-Davidson for a number of years, and we provided the Schebler carbs. for Bert Munro's Indian...You remember the movie, right? just to be a name dropper.
LASER917 Posted November 13, 2006 #14 Posted November 13, 2006 Wizard. I have had my electronic gauges for 2 yrs now and so far still working great. They do travel in my saddle bag on my longer trips, but normaly live in my toolbox. I have the Twin Max.
wizard Posted November 13, 2006 #15 Posted November 13, 2006 Hey, Thanks LAZER917. Thats what I was looking for. Next paycheck I'm ordering them.
washington4000 Posted December 1, 2012 #16 Posted December 1, 2012 Hello,3 days ago I received my new carburetor needles,my 1987 Royale was leaking bad from one of the carburetors.I installed them and the carb still leaking,I mean flood,gas come out from the overflow hoses,now I have 2 leaking carbs,not all the time,can you guys tell me any better solution,or any needle that fit my 1987 RV,? and is not a easy task remove those babies.I will try one more time if still leaking ADIOS baby!!!!Sell as is. Thanks Wash
tz89 Posted December 2, 2012 #17 Posted December 2, 2012 Build your own http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73158
ChrisFrench Posted December 2, 2012 #18 Posted December 2, 2012 Pour la fuite, il faut changer le petit joint noir dans le corps du pointeau you must change the small black seal in the bod Chris
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