Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Yes it appears that we had our "wires" crossed on terminology.:whistling:

 

OK if I read your answers correctly.

 

At the 9 pin connector at the flasher relay, when you connect a jumper from ground to either one of the blue/white wires it does not crank.

When you connect a jumper from ground to the blue/white wire at the solenoid, it does crank.

 

If this is true then the blue/white wire that runs from the flasher relay to the solenoid is either broken or making a bad contact at one end or the other.

 

When you connected the ground to both blue/white wires at the flasher relay you supplied the ground to one end of the the wire and it did not crank. when you connected to the other end of the wire at the solenoid it did crank. This means that it is a bad wire or bad connection at one end of that wire.

 

I think your getting close now.

 

You can do a quick and dirty test of that wire by running a jumper from the blue/white at the solenoid to one of the Blue/white wires at the flasher, one of them will make it crank one will not. with the jumper connected to the one that does not crank, hit the start button, it should crank.

Ok Point proved:dancefool:with a jumper wire from the Blue/w wire at the starter solenoid it will crank and run when connected to either Blue/W wires at the flasher relay when you press the starter button. I'm just gonna run a jumper from the solenoid to the flasher relay to avoid cutting open the wiring harness to trace the wire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wiring inside a harness is seldom damaged (hence the use) however connectors are almost always suspect on older units. I would use a straight pin and an Ohmmeter... holding the needle against one of the meter leads, shove in into the wire just a bit back from the connector and put the other meter lead at the other end connector, reverse if no problem found.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wiring inside a harness is seldom damaged (hence the use) however connectors are almost always suspect on older units. I would use a straight pin and an Ohmmeter... holding the needle against one of the meter leads, shove in into the wire just a bit back from the connector and put the other meter lead at the other end connector, reverse if no problem found.
It was the bullet connector at the solenoid end. I just cut it out and hard sodered the wires together. Problem solved without having to run a jumper.

Thanks Fellows

:You_Rock_Emoticon:That $12.00 investment paid off again.:thumbsup2:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And of course it was the very last item to check in the whole start circuit.

Should have started at the other end and you would have found it right away first test.

 

That's what ya get for listening to me..........:whistling:

It's always the last thing you check. But, In this case I have to take the blame. Looking back in retrospect I recall thinking that the mounting screw for the inner fairing cover was dangerousely in touch with that wire and was subject to damageing or disconnecting wire at the bullet connector. I should have known to look there first.:doh:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...