Flander Bar and Throttle Cable Box

[Sleeperhawk]

Okay, I did find the Flanders Bar installation on the Ventures web site.

These instructions looked pretty good, but ??

 

No where in the instructions did it say what to do with nipple on the box housing the cruise control and throttle grip.

 

Looked at the original handle bar and there was a hole for the nipple.

So for those of you that swapped bars, did you drill a hole in the Flanders Bar or file off the nipple of the housing?

 

I drilled the hole.

 

Not done with the install, but will finish tomorrow.

[kbran]

You did good, drill the hole.

[Ferrantelli]

Okay, I did find the Flanders Bar installation on the Ventures web site.

These instructions looked pretty good, but ??

 

No where in the instructions did it say what to do with nipple on the box housing the cruise control and throttle grip.

 

Looked at the original handle bar and there was a hole for the nipple.

So for those of you that swapped bars, did you drill a hole in the Flanders Bar or file off the nipple of the housing?

 

I drilled the hole.

 

Not done with the install, but will finish tomorrow.

 

I am considering the Flanders bars. What part # did you buy? Did the the knurls line up with the risers? Did you need to replace brake hoses and cables?

[Sleeperhawk]

Bought the complete package from Buckeye Performance.

Throttle, front brake lines, and clutch line come with the package.

 

The bar lined up that came with the package.

I have the throttle lines done.

 

Tomorrow will be the clutch and brake lines to replace and brake fluid, oh boy :rotf:

[Ferrantelli]

What I mean when I ask if they line up is, if the knurled (anti-slip diamond cuts) area of the handle bars line up with the risers' caps. The earlier G2 Flander's bars that everyone used on their Ventures, part #650-08761, the knurled areas were much closer together than on the Venture's bars, probably made for Harley. Also, I'd like to know if the rubber dampers that get wedged between the handle bars and the fairing can be used with the Flander's bars.

[Freebird]

For the life of me I can't find the part number that I used. Flanders did come out with a metric version though and the knurls did line up on mine. Also, the rubber dampers do work with the Flanders bars.

[Ferrantelli]

For the life of me I can't find the part number that I used. Flanders did come out with a metric version though and the knurls did line up on mine. Also, the rubber dampers do work with the Flanders bars.

 

Freebird could the part # be 650-08763

 

 

 

Part Number

Handlebar Description

Price

Qty

Click Here to Order

650-08761 G2: Road Glide® Style Type Bar, Plain Chrome

$130.95

650-08762 G2: Road Glide® Style Type Bar, Plain Black

$130.95

650-08763 G2: Road Glide® Style Type Bar, Chrome with Metric Knurls (4" in side x 5" out side) $136.95

[Freebird]

Yep, that should be it. Thanks for the post.

[Venturing Sole]

I bought the kit: flanders bar, cables, and kuryakin grips. I've searched for threads containing installation instructions, but most refer to the Venturers site. My computer warns me of potential malicious software if I even try to go to the site, so I am hesitant. Does anyone have detailed instructions on this site or a .pdf copy of the instructions?

 

I'm reasonably handy and will wing it if not. Mostly unsure about whether or not I will need to bleed brake and clutch lines once replaced and not sure how to do that.

 

Any instructions would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

David

[Freebird]

I don't think anybody here has done a step by step pictorial, I wish somebody would. At any rate, you will need to bleed the clutch and brakes if you change the cables.

[Gary N.]

I've put the G2 bars on three different bikes and always drilled the locating hole for the switch box.

Never changed out the brake or clutch hoses but did use the 2" over throttle cables.

I also used the stock bar weights on two of the installations by welding nuts into the ends of the new bars.

[Art708]

Can't the hoses and cables be run behind the triple tree and gain enough length so as not to have to change these out?

[Freebird]

I used the stock weights also. If you don't have a welder, I provided instructions on how I did it here:

 

[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11122]Installing weights on Flanders bars - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

[Gary N.]

Can't the hoses and cables be run behind the triple tree and gain enough length so as not to have to change these out?

 

I tried this using the Genmar risers and it worked ok going straight down the road but on a full lock turn to the right the throttle would bind up. Not to safe. Wouldn't recommend using the stock throttle cables at all.

[Sleeperhawk]

With the Kyriakin grips, I put the baron end weights on, no need for welding nuts on the flander bars.

 

here is a thread about the end weights:

[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=330686#poststop]Bar end weights for Iso Grips - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

[Venturing Sole]

Help!

I got the handlebars installed and the throttle cables and brake and clutch lines replaced for the segments that tie directly to the levers. There is no pressure in either the clutch lever or front brake lever. I don't know how to fill the new lines or bleed the air out.

 

Anyone with step-by-step?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

David

[Freebird]

I don't think there is a picture writeup anywhere. It is basically the same as bleeding brakes on a car if you have ever done that though. To do the front brakes, you remove the cover on the reservoir on the right handlebar. Make sure it is topped off with brake fluid. There is a bleeder screw on the bottom of the brake calipers. I usually start with the left one but on these bikes, it really doesn't matter. You may need somebody to help you but it can be done alone if you can reach the bleeder screw and the brake lever. Pull in the brake lever and while you have it pulled in, looses off on the bleeder screw. Then while you still have the lever pulled in, re-tighten the screw. Then release the lever. You repeat this process over and over until you have finally pumpled all the air out of the lines. It could take a while. Two things to watch for. Make sure that you always re-tighten the screw before releasing the lever. Make sure that the keep the reservoir full enough that you don't suck more air into the system. OH...and make SURE you don't drip any brake fluid on any painted surfaces because it WILL remove paint. I usually hold a towel under the reservoir when I am adding fluid.

 

You basically do the clutch the exact same way except the bleeder screw is on the left side of the engine. Under a rubber flap.

 

Hopefully some others will join in here with some tips to make it easier.

[Sleeperhawk]

Hopefully some others will join in here with some tips to make it easier.

 

 

It is not, unless you have a bleeder tool.

 

But if you are not on speaking terms with the better half, you better :rotf:

Because it is a whole lot easier and you have company for the next couple of hours.

 

Also, show her how to use the wrench, that way she can be sitting down for the next couple of hours, while you are standing and pumping and filling the reservoirs.

[Sleeperhawk]

David, did you get the front brakes and clutch functional again

[Venturing Sole]

George, thank you so much for calling and explaining the bleeding procedure and Don, thank you for explaining in writing. It went well, even by myself. I have a large squeeze clamp for woodworking that I used to hold the lever closed while I opened and closed the bleeder valve, with a piece of tubing to capture the fluid in a jar. I also used the plastic cap from under the cover to keep the reservoir from spurting fluid out while pumping the lever. Took a long time (of course), but was successful. I took lots of pictures of the whole installation and plan to write it up for future do-it-yourselfers. The new handlebars felt great during a relatively short test ride, but discovered the 5% that I didn't get right.

 

I seem to recall Don posting about a similar problem in reassembling the cruise control cable, because that is the function that is not working right. I thought I wrapped the cc cable in the same direction on the throttle linkage wheel as I observed it when I opened it up, but maybe I was confused. I guess I'll have to remove the tank again to get to the throttle linkage wheel and try wrapping the cc cable in the opposite direction (next weekend). In the meantime I will search for the thread that I vaguely remember seeing that talked to that problem.

 

The whole installation took me the entire weekend, but I was going slow and methodical and capturing notes and pictures. Thanks again for the help. I don't use the cruise control during my normal commuting anyway, so no big deal.

 

David

[Sleeperhawk]

George, thank you so much for calling and explaining the bleeding procedure and Don, thank you for explaining in writing. It went well, even by myself. I have a large squeeze clamp for woodworking that I used to hold the lever closed while I opened and closed the bleeder valve, with a piece of tubing to capture the fluid in a jar. I also used the plastic cap from under the cover to keep the reservoir from spurting fluid out while pumping the lever. Took a long time (of course), but was successful. I took lots of pictures of the whole installation and plan to write it up for future do-it-yourselfers. The new handlebars felt great during a relatively short test ride, but discovered the 5% that I didn't get right.

 

I seem to recall Don posting about a similar problem in reassembling the cruise control cable, because that is the function that is not working right. I thought I wrapped the cc cable in the same direction on the throttle linkage wheel as I observed it when I opened it up, but maybe I was confused. I guess I'll have to remove the tank again to get to the throttle linkage wheel and try wrapping the cc cable in the opposite direction (next weekend). In the meantime I will search for the thread that I vaguely remember seeing that talked to that problem.

 

The whole installation took me the entire weekend, but I was going slow and methodical and capturing notes and pictures. Thanks again for the help. I don't use the cruise control during my normal commuting anyway, so no big deal.

 

David

 

David,

 

In the throttle linkage wheel, there is the spring that has to be in right and there is another cable that comes in from the bottom that must set in the groove of throttle linkage housing correctly. I know if this is not set in there correctly, causes issues with the cruise control.