BigLenny Posted August 18, 2012 #1 Posted August 18, 2012 I'm gonna change my spark plugs myself. Looking at that project closely, It appears I might have to raise the gas tank to get to the front two plugs, Am I thinking right?
M61A1MECH Posted August 18, 2012 #2 Posted August 18, 2012 I always pull the tank just to be sure I do not ding it with a tool. On my Venture I pull the front dog bone struts also, those I pull one at a time just to be sure the motor does not shift, I am not sure if it would with both dog bones out or not, but why take the chance, I can only work on one plug at a time so there is no reason to have both off at the same time.
BigLenny Posted August 18, 2012 Author #3 Posted August 18, 2012 Thanks Steve, Do you take the tank completely off, or lift it just enough to do the work. Is there anything hooked to the tank besides the fuel line?
M61A1MECH Posted August 18, 2012 #4 Posted August 18, 2012 I all ways pull the tank completely off. There is one electrical connection and a rubber vent hose under the plastic cowl that is around the ignition switch. Make sure you turn the petcock to off before you pull the fuel line, (do not ask ).
dave_wells Posted August 18, 2012 #5 Posted August 18, 2012 lift it enough to get to the plugs I roll up a towel and place it between the tank and the frame helps keep the tank in place and leaves plenty of room I have never taken the tank off I change the plugs every season hope this helps
eusa1 Posted August 18, 2012 #6 Posted August 18, 2012 Removal of the dog bones is required , removing or loosening the tank is not
calperin Posted August 18, 2012 #7 Posted August 18, 2012 It is not 100% needed if you have the right tool. If you have the articulate cricket wrench don't need to. However, to be safe is better do it. Regards,
BigLenny Posted August 18, 2012 Author #8 Posted August 18, 2012 Great info! Thanks so much. And, yes, I WILL remember to turn the petcock off if it totally remove the tank. Lol. I'm gonna try to do it by just unbolting it and raising it for just enough room. Probably will you the towel trick as described above. BTW, does anybody have any jazzy plugs that you recommend that perform better than the stock ones?
Miles Posted August 19, 2012 #10 Posted August 19, 2012 I do NOT remove the fuel tank or anything else when changing the spark plugs. If you do, that is your choice, but it is not mandated. I also use NGK Iridium spark plugs. They truly do last 75,000 miles. For the small extra cost of these plugs, they are well worth it, as you do not have to change the plugs as often. I have been using NGK Iridium spark plugs for the last 400,000 miles of riding, and have never had one fail, and always get at least 75,000 out of a set. Miles
guns_usn_20 Posted October 26, 2012 #11 Posted October 26, 2012 Don't forget to turn the fuel back on when you are finished . (DON'T ASK)
Bushwacker Posted October 26, 2012 #12 Posted October 26, 2012 Use air to blow dirt out from around plugs. Just a thought?? Bushwacker:301:
RedRider Posted October 26, 2012 #13 Posted October 26, 2012 And always a touch of anti-seize on the plug threads. Suggest using a short piece of fuel line around the end of the plug to start it. If the plug is cross threaded, the fuel line will slip. If the plug is lined up well, it will screw in until the seat. Then use the torque wrench. RR
Guest tx2sturgis Posted October 26, 2012 #14 Posted October 26, 2012 And always a touch of anti-seize on the plug threads. Suggest using a short piece of fuel line around the end of the plug to start it. If the plug is cross threaded, the fuel line will slip. If the plug is lined up well, it will screw in until the seat. Then use the torque wrench. RR The hose idea is a good one, but using antisieze is not always a good idea. If you get too much on the threads, it can act as an electrical insulator, not a good thing since the plug threads have to make a low-resistance connection to the threads they are inserted into, so the plug will be electrically grounded. Its up to the individual of course, but some factory technical bulletins advise against it. Disclaimer: I'm not sure if Yamaha does or does not advise it. If someone knows for SURE, I will accept that opinion.
Gray Ghost Posted November 2, 2012 #15 Posted November 2, 2012 The RSV manual doesn't call for it. Harley specifies that you use LOCTITE® C5-A® Copper Grade Anti-Seize on V-Rod spark plugs, it has copper and graphite in the compound so it does conduct electricity. Here is a good site if you want to know the properties of a particular version of Loctite: http://www.henkel.mx/mxe/content_data/83749_LT3355v4_MROantiseize.pdf
hunter 1500 Posted January 3, 2013 #16 Posted January 3, 2013 Don't forget to turn the fuel back on when you are finished . (DON'T ASK) Yes and put the hose back on.
Capt-D Posted January 3, 2013 #17 Posted January 3, 2013 Depending on the miles, a good time to clean up the spark plug cap, the spring in there gets pretty corroded. There is a thread that explains how to do it, but not sure how to bring it up.
BigLenny Posted January 3, 2013 Author #18 Posted January 3, 2013 Ya'll realize I started this thread way back in August, don't you? LOL. Already did the plugs and went on a 2 week 4000 miler out west the 1st week of September. But, thanks for the pointers.
wes0778 Posted January 4, 2013 #19 Posted January 4, 2013 Removal of the dog bones is required , removing or loosening the tank is not Just my but I it is sure easier with the tank off and on top of that I always run a vacuum cleaner hose over the plugs before I remove them to be sure no foreign body (like a rock) falls into the spark plug hole.
First_N_Last Posted January 5, 2013 #20 Posted January 5, 2013 The RSV manual doesn't call for it. Harley specifies that you use LOCTITE® C5-A® Copper Grade Anti-Seize on V-Rod spark plugs, it has copper and graphite in the compound so it does conduct electricity. Here is a good site if you want to know the properties of a particular version of Loctite: http://www.henkel.mx/mxe/content_data/83749_LT3355v4_MROantiseize.pdf Oh damn... something else to buy
irbk Posted February 17, 2013 #21 Posted February 17, 2013 It is not 100% needed if you have the right tool. If you have the articulate cricket wrench don't need to. However, to be safe is better do it. Regards, What is a "articulate cricket wrench" and where do I buy one? I think having to take the tank off for something as simple as changing the plugs is about the stupidest design features. Really the only thing about my RSTD that I dislike.
pprince Posted February 18, 2013 #22 Posted February 18, 2013 Here is a good article from NGK about when to use anti-seize and when not to. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
Blinker Posted May 15, 2013 #23 Posted May 15, 2013 (edited) The RSV manual doesn't call for it. Harley specifies that you use LOCTITE® C5-A® Copper Grade Anti-Seize on V-Rod spark plugs, it has copper and graphite in the compound so it does conduct electricity. Here is a good site if you want to know the properties of a particular version of Loctite: http://www.henkel.mx/mxe/content_data/83749_LT3355v4_MROantiseize.pdf Loctite on a Harley........unheard of!:rotf:For a clothing manufacturer, they don't make a bad bike!!!!! Edited May 15, 2013 by Blinker disclaimer
Kirby Posted May 16, 2013 #25 Posted May 16, 2013 Removing tank is not a big deal ! 10 min job :sign yeah that:
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