Tkosanic Posted August 10, 2012 #1 Posted August 10, 2012 Alright I really want to thank all of you for your help. I have narrowed it down to my front right cylinder with no spark. Pulled the plug and it is as clean as when it went in. Where do I go from here
mbrood Posted August 11, 2012 #2 Posted August 11, 2012 I would do a simple resistance check from inside the sparkplug holder to the ignition fuse on the rear and then front... both should read right at 24K (10k for the holder and 13k for the ignition coil secondary). Anything more and you have some corrosion to clean, either inside the plug holder (comes apart with a flat blade screwdriver) or one of the ends of the plug wire (screws into the plug holder, has a cap and pressure washer on the coil) look for green crusties and clean... if it's the wire, just snip 1/8" off and reapply. Now swap the rear and front plugs. Fire her up and let her run about 45 seconds and shut her down and gently feel the exhaust pipes front and rear for comparison.
Trader Posted August 11, 2012 #3 Posted August 11, 2012 :think:Hey Mike....could you explain EXACTLY how to do a "simple" resistance test for us "simple" minded folk? I think I can figure out which setting to use on the tester:doh: but beyond the VERY basics I'm lost electrically. ..so I stick one probe up the spark plug wire...but where would I find the ignition fuse? You don't mean in the main fuse block do you??? also confused by "on the rear and on the front"....you mean the coils that run those cyl? sorry...I'm lost!
mbrood Posted August 11, 2012 #4 Posted August 11, 2012 Sorry... a little unclear... You want the multimeter set to 200K Ohms (it has to be a setting above 24K in order to READ 24K). One probe goes into the sparkplug holder and the other probe goes to the ignition fuse, under the false tank, inside the black main fuse box. It's always a better test to probe the CLIP on the left side so you are testing both clips and fuse as well. Clear as mud?
Trader Posted August 11, 2012 #6 Posted August 11, 2012 Please bear with me here....... somehow I would never have thought it possible that putting one end at the fuse would work. I mean...doesn't the current have to go thru the coils, tci and ????who knows what else before it gets to the fuses? So how is going thru all that checking the SP wire? If the tci or coils were weak or bad corroded connections or ????? wouldn't that affect the reading?
mbrood Posted August 12, 2012 #7 Posted August 12, 2012 The coils primary coil also is tied to the ignition fuse on the high side but it's lower leg goes to the TCI. We are talking about testing the ignition coil secondary (high voltage) side. With a probe in the plug holder and the other probe on the far fuse clip, continuity is between the clip, the fuse, the clip, the high side of the secondary coil, the high tension lead and finally through the plug holder.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now