frankd Posted August 10, 2012 #26 Posted August 10, 2012 The new formula WD-40 is supposed to be non-flamibly (I haven't tested it). Other than that, just keep a fire extinguisher handy and do it outside, not in the garage. Heck, even a garden hose. Look and make sure the ports we use to sync. the carbs are plugged properly (all 3). On the MK I, the rubber plugs don't seem to get hard. On the MK ii, there is a lot more heat (the side covers close, trapping the heat), and mine were hard as rocks and one was cracked. Frank D.
kevin5549 Posted August 12, 2012 Author #27 Posted August 12, 2012 Rode the bike to work today, still bogging. On the way home it started trying to run right. It would surge the go back. I took the air box off to look for leaks and while i had it off I unpluged the TCI and think i found part of the problem. The smaller connector was green not copper. The larger looked alittle better. Cleaned them with contact cleaner and plugged back up. I have attached some pics of my carbs. If you look at photo 1 and also the carb in the uper right of pic 5 the slider looks different. The brass sleeve the slider shaft goes through is pulled away from the wall. Is this a problem? Another of the carbs was like that and i just pushed it back into place. Are they suposed to move like that? THANKS Kevin
van avery Posted August 12, 2012 #28 Posted August 12, 2012 Looks like your needle jet screw is missing. If you look in the manual on Page 4-1 there is a screw and washer at the top of the jet block holder that is missing. It holds the jet seat in place in the jet holder. See http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm for the manuals if you don't have one. There is a small pin in the side of the jet holder that keeps it in line. That could be why that one did not move back into place like the other one did. Only way to fix would be to pull the carbs and open them up. I hate to say you got a screw loose...... But if two of the jet seats are moving out I think you got more than one screw loose. I'm sure others will chime in on this. Good luck.
Squeeze Posted August 12, 2012 #29 Posted August 12, 2012 What van avery said. You'll need to undo and splitt the Carb Set and get them Emulsion Tunes tightend. The Screws are found inside the Carb Bowls.
kevin5549 Posted August 12, 2012 Author #30 Posted August 12, 2012 Would this be the cause of the lost power and bogging? I had the carbs cleaned at a shop in Memphis in June. Should I contact them and have them repair or is this something that just happens over time? Never mind things don't just come loose and fall out. I will be contacting them on monday to arrange for them to correct this issue. Thanks for the help you guys are great. Kevin:cool10:
mbrood Posted August 12, 2012 #31 Posted August 12, 2012 (edited) You got it Kevin, that's a farirly large bronze scew holding the jet block (fuel idle and main jet) against the carb body and their passages as well as screwing into the imulsion tube holding it rigid. They don't work loose. It's actually a fairly simple job, pop the carbs off, then split the left and right bank halves (this still keeps the basic sync adjustments), pop off the fuel bowls and make everything right... Make sure and check that the large and small rubber plugs are secure beneath the two fuel jets after you insure that the two jets in there are screwed in tight, the jet block gasket is intact and then screw that assembly in tight and button them up. Any main resync requirement would be between the left and the right sides. Edited August 12, 2012 by mbrood
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