Guest tx2sturgis Posted October 15, 2012 #26 Posted October 15, 2012 (edited) This is all you will ever need to know about brake fluid. Well said! All good info here..like a primer on brakes...very cool. I want to add 'just one more thing'... All you guys that know this, from changing your brake fluid, you may skip this post. For the members here who have never changed brake fluid, and are about to learn, I want to include this: DOT 3 and 4 (glycol based) brake fluid EATS some types of paint and slowly cracks ABS plastic. (DOT 5, silicone based, wont do that, but it doesnt matter, because our metric bikes dont use it anyway, that I know of). So when you set up all your tools and rags and fluid containers, make sure to include a drop cloth or tarp or something like it to cover the tank, fairing, fenders, and the lowers. And wipe up any spills immediately, if not sooner. Even a knee dipped in a spill on the ground can transfer the fluid accidentally to a painted surface. Ok...disclaimer mode off. Edited October 15, 2012 by tx2sturgis
pmelah Posted October 16, 2012 #27 Posted October 16, 2012 ................all yall forgot one thing SEAFOAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :confused24::whistling::rotf:
Guest scarylarry Posted October 16, 2012 #28 Posted October 16, 2012 Very true and this was not mention....I have a old bed sheet and that i fold over many times and lay it across the tank and another for the lower cowling....If any spills on it I remove it then and make sure what is cover is clean... All good info here..like a primer on brakes...very cool. I want to add 'just one more thing'... All you guys that know this, from changing your brake fluid, you may skip this post. For the members here who have never changed brake fluid, and are about to learn, I want to include this: DOT 3 and 4 (glycol based) brake fluid EATS some types of paint and slowly cracks ABS plastic. (DOT 5, silicone based, wont do that, but it doesnt matter, because our metric bikes dont use it anyway, that I know of). So when you set up all your tools and rags and fluid containers, make sure to include a drop cloth or tarp or something like it to cover the tank, fairing, fenders, and the lowers. And wipe up any spills immediately, if not sooner. Even a knee dipped in a spill on the ground can transfer the fluid accidentally to a painted surface. Ok...disclaimer mode off.
stroker ace Posted October 16, 2012 #29 Posted October 16, 2012 All good info here..like a primer on brakes...very cool. I want to add 'just one more thing'... All you guys that know this, from changing your brake fluid, you may skip this post. For the members here who have never changed brake fluid, and are about to learn, I want to include this: DOT 3 and 4 (glycol based) brake fluid EATS some types of paint and slowly cracks ABS plastic. (DOT 5, silicone based, wont do that, but it doesnt matter, because our metric bikes dont use it anyway, that I know of). So when you set up all your tools and rags and fluid containers, make sure to include a drop cloth or tarp or something like it to cover the tank, fairing, fenders, and the lowers. And wipe up any spills immediately, if not sooner. Even a knee dipped in a spill on the ground can transfer the fluid accidentally to a painted surface. Ok...disclaimer mode off. Good point... I also use/take a gallon pitcher of water in case I spill, rinse first then wipe.
XV1100SE Posted October 17, 2012 #30 Posted October 17, 2012 ....Pads are about 50% life left. Have not changed the fluid since getting this bike. sp!ke ...MOST important is to CHANGE YOUR BRAKE AND CLUTCH FLUID REGULARLY! The manual specifies every two years, but it seems that few people actually do it - ever. .... Great info in this thread. First and foremost is the info from the above two posts. OP has a 2004 so best case the bike is 8 years old, 9 years old if manufactured in 2003 (2004 model). Yeah.... time to change the fluid !
djh3 Posted October 17, 2012 #31 Posted October 17, 2012 So a couple questions. Where can speed bleeders be found? How much are they? And exactly what do they door make easier? Was thinking I would bottow a vacum bleeder from my local autozone.
Guest scarylarry Posted October 17, 2012 #32 Posted October 17, 2012 http://speedbleeder.com/ I can't remember how much I paid for them but I'm cheap I know that.. After you install them which is very easy unscrew the old and screw in the new one, bleeding becomes a one man job, you pop on the clear tube and pump away when the res. gets low wipe clean with a lint free rag add clean fresh fluid and pump that till the line becomes clear about 30 minutes max on brakes....You cannot get air back in the system through the bleeder valve.. Look at the website and it explains it all and I have them on both bikes
stroker ace Posted October 17, 2012 #33 Posted October 17, 2012 Take a 99 cent turkey baster suck most if not all of the old fluid out, fill with fresh unopened can/bottle brake fluid of your choice. Then take take a clear hose that fits the bleeder tightly put other end of hose in a container ( I use old dish soap bottles ) with enough brake fluid in it to cover the other end of hose. Then loosen bleeders, then around 6-10 pumps on front lever fluid should be clear/clean tighten bleeders wipe off done. 10 minutes max if you have your stuff ready. The rear takes a little longer because of reservoir location. You can do both fronts at same time or one at a time. I usually can do the bike in about 15-20 minutes by myself. Keep topping off reservoirs as you bleed and don't let them go dry!!
djh3 Posted October 18, 2012 #34 Posted October 18, 2012 I found or was tought to bleeding is to keep fluid in the tube. You can see bubbles and als keeps air from backing in system I usualy have like a pig tail loop of clear hose then air cant get back. Sort of like the drain trap on your kitchen sink.
stroker ace Posted October 18, 2012 #35 Posted October 18, 2012 Yep that works also same but different idea.
Guest scarylarry Posted October 18, 2012 #36 Posted October 18, 2012 DOT 4 fluid, some have said 5.1 not 5.0 can be used but finding the 5.1 is a challenge so I always stick with the 4... The turkey baster works good and after you suck all of it if not most fluid out use a lint free cloth to clean the res. DO NOT PULL a lever until the res. is filled then bleed away.. My number is in my profile call me if you like..
djh3 Posted October 20, 2012 #37 Posted October 20, 2012 Well just got home. Safe and sound and no more issues with the brakes the rest of the trip. Although I would have to say I was way more cautious than I would have normaly been, braking way early and going slower etc. So I have a supply of brake fluid in the garage from the days of race cars and sponsors. I just checked. Wouldnt you know its DOT3. But it does say on it 550 deg. Something about super heavy duty on case. I havent read a bottle of it yet, just whats on case. If the 550 is the boiling point, acording to the info that was posted here thats better than the DOT4.
djh3 Posted October 21, 2012 #38 Posted October 21, 2012 Searched all over town yesterday for DOT4 fluid that had a little better wet spec as well as dry, but nota. So I ended up with plain ole DOT4 prestone fluid. Oh well meets spec so thats what I used. Dont think the rear brake feels any different as far as pedal hardness goes. Neither do any of the hyd, but they didnt feel bad before either. I did figure out a helpful trick though. I remembered reading somewhere along the line of threads about bleeding to be sure you got things covered in rags to keep drips etc off paint. Heres what I came up with. I took the sleve from a t-shirt and cut it off, leaving sort of a tube. Then took a rubber band and secured it around the resivoir. It held the rag tight so nothing got by. So while standing there a moment I thought "what if you spill something other than there. I thought about draping rags on lowers and tank to cover it, then it hit me. I had a whole pile of them wal-mart bags. I put one over the lowers like a sock and then used the blue masking tape to tape on across the tank. Worked great.
Guest scarylarry Posted October 21, 2012 #39 Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) I don't know anything about dot 3 brake fluid other than it is made... The manual calls for dot 4 and I always use that, O' Reillys has dot 4... I could see the dot 5.1 being a issue but the 4 is very common... Edited October 21, 2012 by scarylarry
Cougar Posted October 21, 2012 #40 Posted October 21, 2012 oh my , I am at 12 years. my first to do on my list this winter. looking pretty brown in the clutch cylinder. The brakes where done when I had the Convertion done. Don't think they did the front tho. gunna find me some DOT 4 Soon!
djh3 Posted October 21, 2012 #41 Posted October 21, 2012 If I would have had patientce I would have ordered some higher tem stuff mentioned in this post. But I really just wanted to get it done. So I used (standard) DOT4. Being yours is triked, I have no clue what your rear brake set up is. I would guess the DOT4 would be good.
Cougar Posted October 21, 2012 #42 Posted October 21, 2012 yea, rear brakes are new and clean... but I still need to do the clutch I believe there is DOT 4 for the rears. (duel) brakes
Guest scarylarry Posted October 21, 2012 #43 Posted October 21, 2012 If I would have had patientce I would have ordered some higher tem stuff mentioned in this post. But I really just wanted to get it done. So I used (standard) DOT4. Being yours is triked, I have no clue what your rear brake set up is. I would guess the DOT4 would be good. Unless you have good help with you I would order the speed bleeders and wait should be in the box by Friday I would think...
djh3 Posted October 22, 2012 #45 Posted October 22, 2012 Project is done. Wasnt too hard. Been doing mechanincal work all my life and most times by myself. So you come up with some work-arounds. My bleeder bottle I make sure has a high spot in it so fluid makes a stop for the air. Did some "flow" bleeding and some regular "pressure" then release bleeding. All seems fine. Although after looking at the speed bleeder site I could see where they would be a bonus.
djh3 Posted October 22, 2012 #47 Posted October 22, 2012 Yup sort of. Well it did. Now looks closer to apple juice.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted October 22, 2012 #48 Posted October 22, 2012 Yup sort of. Well it did. Now looks closer to apple juice. A lesser man might have said 'beer'.... But that would get some folks all riled up.
Guest scarylarry Posted October 22, 2012 #49 Posted October 22, 2012 A lesser man might have said 'beer'.... Are you saying beer does not mix with brake fluid?
djh3 Posted October 23, 2012 #50 Posted October 23, 2012 Could have said it looked like the after effects of beer.
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