What's the wire coming out of the top of battery?

[Mmartin4509]

Just replaced the battery in my 86 VR, I noticed the battery that came out of the bike had a wire coming out of the top of the battery, what does this wire do? The new battery has no wire or a hole for the old wire to go into, do I need to drill a hole?Thanks.

[loehring]

I believe that goes to the battery sensor. The older batteries that weren't sealed used a sensor to tell you when the battery wasn't holding a charge. The newer batteries are sealed and there is no where for the sensor. Thay had this on the 1st Gen because of the batteries at the time. 2nd Gen doesn't have the sensor because the batteries were beyond that by the time the bike came our. You don't need it if you bought a new battery.

[Yammer Dan]

It is the sensor for battery fluid level. Without it you will have a warning light on the dash. Check for thread on here to get rid of light. You should have had a phrobe in the hole in old battery. Some batteries have the hole some don't.Where did you get battery?

 

Can't drill it.

[Mmartin4509]

Thanks guys, Dan... I got the new battery from batteries plus, just a $60 cheapo. Thanks again, and if you guys remember/know how to get rid of the battery icon on dash, please let me know.

[pmelah]

It is the sensor for battery fluid level. Without it you will have a warning light on the dash. Check for thread on here to get rid of light. You should have had a phrobe in the hole in old battery. Some batteries have the hole some don't.Where did you get battery?

 

Can't drill it.

 

Thanks guys, Dan... I got the new battery from batteries plus, just a $60 cheapo. Thanks again, and if you guys remember/know how to get rid of the battery icon on dash, please let me know.

 

 

Mmartin4509 you can get rid of the icon and warning light by following the instuctions on this link i hope im doing this right http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489 if this doesnt work go to first gen tech library read only 2nd page title battery warning bypass freebird posted this by jack its detailed with pics on what to do

[pmelah]

ok i just checked the link i posted and it works go there to fix the warning light :cool10:

[Mmartin4509]

Awesome! Thanks. I can't wait to take this thing for a ride

[Dizzle223]

Mmartin4509 you can get rid of the icon and warning light by following the instuctions on this link i hope im doing this right http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489 if this doesnt work go to first gen tech library read only 2nd page title battery warning bypass freebird posted this by jack its detailed with pics on what to do

 

Mmartin,

 

I just did mine the other day following this link and it worked great. If I can be of assistance please let me know. My # is in my profile.

 

Brian

[saddlebum]

If your new battery has fill caps and it is not a sealed battery then you you just leave out a fill cap and place the probe in its place same as the old battery. If it is a sealed maint free battery then do the modification.

[Condor]

If your new battery has fill caps and it is not a sealed battery then you you just leave out a fill cap and place the probe in its place same as the old battery. If it is a sealed maint free battery then do the modification.

 

For $60 bucks it's probably an 'El Cheepo' wet cell, but I'd suggest doing the mod anyway. The battery level sensor is about as worthless as boobs on a bore, and has caused more problems then it's worth. Battery acid levels should be part of regular maintence anyway.

I was one of the first members to go with an AGM battery in my '83 way back when, and finding any info on getting rid of the warning light was near impossible. I finally ran into a post on some non-discript website that dealt with disabling the warning light because of a faulty wet cell sensor, took it, and wrote up the tech article for the AGM. I started with an Odyssey PC680, and even did a couple of very popular group buys on them. After a couple of years I changed to a DEKA ETX18L, which had the same footprint as the OEM, and was much better economically. Although I think my '91 is still running an Odyssey?? I put a DEKA ETX20L in my new2me '99RSV...also the same foot print...and it took 2.5 days running to Cody on battery power only to drain it down to 8.9vdc and the bike to die in a small town in Wyoming. I've never seen a battery give that low of a reading unless it sat in a junk yard for a couple of years. This one did. Thought I'd murdered it. Assault-n-battery... That incident made me a big believer in the DEKA. I put it on a charger when I got to Cody and it recovered to full. Amazing!! I have it back in the bike and it's doing OK. Seems to loose it's charge quicker while sitting, but what can I expect after what I put it though. Riding daily isn't a problem. Sorry to wander with old war stories....

[Yammer Dan]

For $60 bucks it's probably an 'El Cheepo' wet cell, but I'd suggest doing the mod anyway. The battery level sensor is about as worthless as boobs on a bore, and has caused more problems then it's worth. Battery acid levels should be part of regular maintence anyway.

I was one of the first members to go with an AGM battery in my '83 way back when, and finding any info on getting rid of the warning light was near impossible. I finally ran into a post on some non-discript website that dealt with disabling the warning light because of a faulty wet cell sensor, took it, and wrote up the tech article for the AGM. I started with an Odyssey PC680, and even did a couple of very popular group buys on them. After a couple of years I changed to a DEKA ETX18L, which had the same footprint as the OEM, and was much better economically. Although I think my '91 is still running an Odyssey?? I put a DEKA ETX20L in my new2me '99RSV...also the same foot print...and it took 2.5 days running to Cody on battery power only to drain it down to 8.9vdc and the bike to die in a small town in Wyoming. I've never seen a battery give that low of a reading unless it sat in a junk yard for a couple of years. This one did. Thought I'd murdered it. Assault-n-battery... That incident made me a big believer in the DEKA. I put it on a charger when I got to Cody and it recovered to full. Amazing!! I have it back in the bike and it's doing OK. Seems to loose it's charge quicker while sitting, but what can I expect after what I put it though. Riding daily isn't a problem. Sorry to wander with old war stories....

 

 

 

I have a AGM in my 85 that don't like to sit. Can't remember what it is but I think DEKA. One of the reasons i got this one was for whichever bike I left sitting. Just have to keep them running. "Ugly" has about 50 miles on her this year.

[Condor]

I have a AGM in my 85 that don't like to sit. Can't remember what it is but I think DEKA. One of the reasons i got this one was for whichever bike I left sitting. Just have to keep them running. "Ugly" has about 50 miles on her this year.

 

If it is a DEKA try disconnecting the battery from the bike while it's sitting and see if that doesn't make a difference. You may have a drain problem. IF it isn't, not all AGM's are created equal. My '99 came with a 'Bike Master' (made in Taiwan) AGM that wasn't worth a hoot and one month out of warantee. Replaced it with the DEKA and other than the 'kill' symptoms is doing good....

[Pegasus1300]

Back to the original post since you have a Batteries Plus battery look on the top,you will see two circles molded into the plastic.You can just pick one of these and drill it out for your probe.This works and does not hurt the battery.I have done this a couple of times,my last battery lasted 5 years.Bypassing/fooling the probe is probably the best way to go but you don't have to if you don't want to.

[pmelah]

i have an elcheapo $60 battery only 3 days old full of acid has good charge have the probe in it and my light is still on and flashing at me so im gona do the mod and fool the probe

[Condor]

i have an elcheapo $60 battery only 3 days old full of acid has good charge have the probe in it and my light is still on and flashing at me so im gona do the mod and fool the probe

 

You'll want to leave the probe in the battery. The lead has a connector that you can unplug and then do the mod. MOF you can put a bullet plug on the end on the resistor wire lead to make a sanitary install....??

[motorcycle_1300]

That wire comming out of the top of the battery is for the framistat, sort of a digital replacement for the rebazorber.

 

as I am sure has been mentioned it is a battery fluid senson. the direct replacement batteries have a hole for it. there is a mod where you add some resistance and connect it to the battery terminal, look for the thread for details

 

Al

[Trader]

is for the framistat, sort of a digital replacement for the rebazorber.

 

 

Al

 

 

Of course...everybody knows that!

 

[johnnydemonic]

You can remove the framistat, as well as its analog equivalent rebazorber, using a 7" ganglion wrench with a .254 schneider flange.

 

However, the turbulator module is a different story.

[pmelah]

You'll want to leave the probe in the battery. The lead has a connector that you can unplug and then do the mod. MOF you can put a bullet plug on the end on the resistor wire lead to make a sanitary install....??

 

That wire comming out of the top of the battery is for the framistat, sort of a digital replacement for the rebazorber.

 

as I am sure has been mentioned it is a battery fluid senson. the direct replacement batteries have a hole for it. there is a mod where you add some resistance and connect it to the battery terminal, look for the thread for details

 

Al

 

You can remove the framistat, as well as its analog equivalent rebazorber, using a 7" ganglion wrench with a .254 schneider flange.

 

However, the turbulator module is a different story.

 

hey i think i saw that on startrek :icon_smile_question:rotfl::rotfl:i dont know this is all foreign to me framistats ganglions rebazorbersand turbulators are those parts for warpdrive domaflickies :moped: oh i almost forgot the .245 schneider flange is that a language

[KIC]

You can remove the framistat, as well as its analog equivalent rebazorber, using a 7" ganglion wrench with a .254 schneider flange.

 

However, the turbulator module is a different story.

 

This only occurs on silverish green 2nd Gens...The others have a .376 schneider flange.

[johnnydemonic]

My mistake, thanks for the correction.

 

Utilizing the incorrect schneider flange has been known to cause total particle reversal, basically destroying the shielding on the quantum decapitation valve.

[Trader]

I learn so much from this site.

 

I always thought the Schneider valve was metric!

 

 

 

Venture tech help $12 a year

Entertainment value Priceless!

[Marcarl]

I learn so much from this site.

 

I always thought the Schneider valve was metric!

 

 

 

Venture tech help $12 a year

Entertainment value Priceless!

Obviously you haven't had to deal with the feanutant valve yet, for it can't operate without the assistance of the schneider valve, or the occurrence gate which is a direct relation to both and makes neither one codeficient.