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Posted

My 84 came with a Kenda on the rear & a Dunlop 491 on the front. Both tires are in excellent shape & I have no issues whatsoever on the Interstate or the streets.

 

I remember the p o told me he changed the rear tire but not the front because it was in good shape. Since the wife & I are planning to take longer overnight trips I decided to check the tire date codes. The rear was in fact replaced as it had a date code of 0711. The front although perfect is 8 years old with a 2304 code.

 

SO...

 

Although I am happy with the current performance of this tire combo, I was wondering should I match the the front tire with a Kenda as well? At least for the life of this set. Has anyone had issues with Kenda tires up front? I hear that Gen 1's are fussy about tires.

 

The next full set I will ask you guys again for what would be top of the line, but for now I always like matching tires, but if the Kenda is problematic up from, I will just get another Dunlop 491.

Posted

I am running the Kenda Kruz tires on both first gens. They seem to be a dependable long life tire. The only thing negative I have noticed is they seem a little slippery on wet road to me. Also that kruz on the rear has very deep grooves in the tread when new. This seems to add some wobble to a heavy trailer if towing. Pulling a light weight trailer no problem.

Posted (edited)
You don't say which Kenda....

 

I run the Kenda Kruz front and rear. Been quite happy with them.

 

The rear tire on my 84 now is a Kenda Challenger and from what I am researching the challenger doen not come in 120/90-18 for the front tire. The Kruz does, I wonder how that combo would feel?

Edited by cabreco
Posted

As long as your not mixing a radial with a bias ply you shouldn't have any noticeable issues.

 

 

Both Kenda models are poly bias, but now that you mention it...is there a significant benefit to radials on a bike as heavy as a gen 1?

 

Trying to stay one step ahead. My blonde just turned 15K and she is finally running perfect. So I expect to keep her awhile!:bighug:

Posted

Word on the street is that it's best to stay with the construction (bias or radial) that the OEM used.

 

I think the Challenger has a lower load rating than the Kruz. Not an issue on the front but if you're heavily loaded the Kruz might be a better choice for the rear.

Posted

I have a Dunlop 491 Elite II on the rear, and a Continental tour on the front. Mixing tire brands has never been a problem for me in the 42 years I've been riding. Both tires are /90 bias ply.

 

Nick Diaz

Posted

Excellent.

So for the short term I can cheap out & just replace the front with a new Kenda Kruz. Then within the next 2 years swap both tires out for something more high end.

 

I assume when I pull off the front wheel, that would be a good time to change out the brakes pads to EBC HH's & disconnect the anti dives as well.

 

I appreciate the info

Posted

As long as you have a tire installed that meets the requirement, 120/90-18 (MR90-18) up front and 140/90-16 (MU90-16) on the rear, you're fine. Examine the tire for wear and pressure, and for cuts and rot. Replace it with your favorite tire when it comes time.

 

I seldom have the same brand/model tire front and rear.

 

Nick Diaz

Middletown, MD

Posted

As for the brakes, the front ones are easy to replace, so you don't have to replace them just because you get a new front tire. Front tires and front brake pads should be replaced as needed. I just replaced my right front pads this past week, but the front Continental has only 4,000 miles on it.

 

The rear is something else. I recommend to install new brakes in the rear every time the rear wheel comes out. It's a more time-consuming job to replace the rear tire. I replaced my rear brake pads last month by removing the right saddlebag. Of course, removing the bag on a 1200 is much easier than on my MkII 1988 VR.

 

Nick Diaz

Middletown, MD

Posted

Yeah Nick I have been replacing maintenance items little by little since I got this bike last December.

 

She was a clean project with only 13K miles but needed enough since she was neglected. The orig owner died & it sat for years. It was sold & that owner couldn't fix much. The previous owner I got it from did work on the brakes & carbs but she was still rough. I was lucky to find a complete, identical clone, fully blinged parts bike for $600.

 

I now have her to the point that I get tons of compliments on both looks & performance.

The wife enjoys it so I have been making sure NOTHING messes up to discourage her interest.

Posted

I've been using a kenda challenger in the rear of mine, works great, lasts well relative to the price pulling a light and lightly loaded trailer, no handling issues as far as I am concerned.

 

Right now I have a dunlop on the front, the exact model escapes me at the moment.

 

When that dunlop wears out, I will switch it out for a kenda, the best of the cheapest in my opinion.

Posted

The Kenda ran great for me. I went to E-3s this time to keep from changing them so often I hope. Yamaha had so many great ideas with the MK1 and just went downhill from there. I hate pulling the rear on that 86 and it takes about 3 times as long.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Bought the Kenda Kruz to replace the Dunlop which is worn at the edges & whining when I lean. Should have it by Wednesday. Not bad for $70. The PO had replaced the rear with a Kenda so It'll match.

 

So I'll be running a Kenda Challenger in the rear & a Kenda Kruz up front. Until the next set!

Posted

I run a set of Kruz's and I love them. I think they're great in the wet. A little bit noisy in the corners because of the aggressive tread but I would buy them again...in fact I had the same set-up on my Virago.

Posted

On a pre-trip inspection Thursday I noticed the tread was starting to separate on my Kenda Kruz rear tire. Tire was three years old with 5,000 or so miles on it. I do not believe the separation was a result of a defect.

 

When my wife rides with me I'm sure we're near or above the weight rating of the tire (908 lbs.). Last trip we had the trailer hooked up to add some additional weight. During the trip I felt a large jolt in the rear end at about 70mph. Something hit the bike behind me and we stopped almost immediately.

 

A large piece of loose pavement had passed under his left fork, gouging and bending his brake rotor. What I think happened is the piece of pavement came loose as my front tire passed over then was launched by my rear tire. I think the tire was damaged by the piece of pavement.

 

It pays to check tires frequently.

Posted

I got the new front Kenda Kruz mounted back from the dealer. Put the wheel back on ( I also cleaned & replaced the EBC HH brake pads) Took it for a quick ride (55 mph tops). Nice riding, for $70 I can't complain.

The brakes however well....I can't even describe how great it stops. Funny what new pads & degunking the calipers will do for stopping!

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