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Posted (edited)

Read the service manual. Its online from a link in the tech section ofthis forum.

 

There's also an excellant tech article by v7goose on how to.

 

Hope I'm not highjacking this thread TOOOO much:whistling:

 

I'm totally ignorant of this procedure...

and don't have experience as a mechanic on the internal parts so could some one help me understand a bit more?

 

During the rotation of the cam some of the lobes would be engaged, pressing against the valve stems with the valves partially open or closed.

Some lobes would be totally free at any given time.

So wouldn't you have to use the tool to rotate the cam to check clearances?

or would you just use the rear wheel?

 

Are there any good pictures of the shims etc....the pictures in the online manual are so dark you can't really see any details.

 

I would be interested in a tool....and lots of help when the time comes..but I'm brave (or stupid) enough that I'm willing to try just about anything. I mean...what can go wrong right?:whistling:

Edited by RandyR
Posted

My OEM tool broke on my next to last valve. I sent it back, no questions asked and it was replaced. There really is a lot of force placed on that tool, and it broke at the thinnest part. It held the valve open while I replaced the shim, but it would not began to open the next valve, missing the thin part.

Posted

Bob got a couple takers off the delphi venture fourms. I too was thinking just a machined piece of alum, but what do I know, your the machinest. I would probably try something like the all thread and flat stock thing. :whistling:

Posted
Bob got a couple takers off the delphi venture fourms. I too was thinking just a machined piece of alum, but what do I know, your the machinest. I would probably try something like the all thread and flat stock thing. :whistling:

 

Ponch made me up one a few years ago that was out of normal steel, a machinist at his work site did it, and it got chewed up right away when used. Aluminum would not last through 1 head IMHO.

 

There is an extreme amount of pressure concentrated on the lifter buckets and the shoulder of the tool. Also very high stress points at the inner 2 hex corners.

 

Gary

Posted

That is part of what got me to thinking about making a "better" one. the cast piece I could judt imagine failing. Have had some of those special tools that are out of cast and they dont allways work so good.

Posted
Ponch made me up one a few years ago that was out of normal steel, a machinist at his work site did it, and it got chewed up right away when used. Aluminum would not last through 1 head IMHO.

 

There is an extreme amount of pressure concentrated on the lifter buckets and the shoulder of the tool. Also very high stress points at the inner 2 hex corners.

 

Gary

 

If your newer drawing are of the increased material in the high stress area then my best I can offer at a quantity of 10 would be $55.00 each. This would be made from A2 or 4140 and heat treated to achieve a min hardness of 45Rc. I thought of using 8620 and doing a case but the cost for case hardening is actually near double the cost of vacuum oven for tool steels. Stainless is much more expensive

Posted
If your newer drawing are of the increased material in the high stress area then my best I can offer at a quantity of 10 would be $55.00 each. This would be made from A2 or 4140 and heat treated to achieve a min hardness of 45Rc. I thought of using 8620 and doing a case but the cost for case hardening is actually near double the cost of vacuum oven for tool steels. Stainless is much more expensive

 

Attached is a copy of the drawing Jeff (flyingfool) posted for reference.

 

He did make some of these, but I don't know what status is of his testing them.

 

My thought is at a $55 price point, you are opening yourself up to a potential loss if tool doesn't perform as expected, meaning it breaks at stress points. Coupled with the fact they are on ebay now at about $56 with shipping, it's something I would walk away from.

 

Gary

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