icebrrg3rd Posted July 30, 2012 #1 Posted July 30, 2012 So I swapped a (mostly) 1300cc engine into my bike and now I am left with a 1200 engine that I have no room for. I want to get rid of it, but keep any parts that I might need as spares. The donor motor had no covers, so mine went back on. Same with clutch basket. The motor has been pulled apart and will be heading to scrap soon. This is what I am saving so far: -Starter clutch (good condition, no cracks) -Valve covers -Misc bolts/nuts/washers -Valve shims If anyone has a suggestion as to what else I should keep from it, otherwise I will be tossing/recycling the rest of it: -Engine cases (upper & lower, 1200cc) appear to be in good condition -Heads (from 1300) - they are in rough condition, rusty & stuck valves (don't appear to be bent tho) -Rotating assembly (pistons, crank, counterbalance, transmission, output shaft) ---Main bearing journals have some scratches in them ---2nd gear issue on transmission parts -Camshafts & chains I am basically in the mindset of "I've been in there once, I'm not going back in", so I don't forsee the need of keeping the engine or any internal parts. Plus I'm not really an ebay seller type of guy so not saving parts to sell. -Andrew p.s. If anyone wants the remains for free...
djh3 Posted July 30, 2012 #2 Posted July 30, 2012 I would say definatly the heads. Probably the drive line parts, Clutch slave, not sure what all is usable on the 1300. But cyl heads you should be able to turn upside down, put some WD 40 in them and the valves should free up. At any rate the heads are a rebuildable item, and if they are anything like the FJ1200 heads its hard to find good rebuildable parts. You may be able to recoup some of your money from them.
dingy Posted July 30, 2012 #3 Posted July 30, 2012 I would be interested in the crank and tranny remnants. 44905 is zip code for shipping calculations. Gary
pmelah Posted July 30, 2012 #4 Posted July 30, 2012 intake ports and carbs what size are they i might be intrested in them if your tossing in the recycle pile oh what yr is it
icebrrg3rd Posted July 31, 2012 Author #5 Posted July 31, 2012 djh3, I'll see if the valves free up, but the heads/valves are pretty corroded. They were exposed to water and left for a while unprotected. Maybe they are worth something, but I don't think I'll use them. Drive line, that's what was wrong with mine (2nd gear issue). Clutch slave, all corroded up. So I think I pretty much have what I'll need off it then. Thanks for the input. dingy, just the crank? Don't want the counterbalance shaft? No pistons/rods? (they're 1200cc) And the transmission, what about the output shaft/u-joint? I'll see what size box I can stuff them in & get back to you. Remember, it was just starting that 2nd gear issue, so it's not a perfect tranny. pmelah, there weren't any carbs or intake boots (if that's what you mean by ports) on the parts engine. Sorry. If no one wants anything else, I'll probably recycle the rest this weekend. No use for the engine halves other than future beer cans? -Andrew
dingy Posted July 31, 2012 #6 Posted July 31, 2012 dingy, just the crank? Don't want the counterbalance shaft? No pistons/rods? (they're 1200cc) And the transmission, what about the output shaft/u-joint? I'll see what size box I can stuff them in & get back to you. Remember, it was just starting that 2nd gear issue, so it's not a perfect tranny. -Andrew No pistons, rods or balancer. The crank can be used in a 1300 though. Also will take the output shaft & joint. Also if you can find them the case shims at the output shaft, there are 2 of each size, may be 1 or more shim sets. Each is unique to case, but it gives me some to adjust in new case. The tranny I can use some of the parts from. I got a 1300 motor, but a bearing had come apart on tranny output shaft and damaged a few gears. Gary
icebrrg3rd Posted July 31, 2012 Author #7 Posted July 31, 2012 dingy - Ok, only the crank & tranny. I think I still have the shims for the output shaft, will toss them in too. -Andrew
jasonm. Posted August 1, 2012 #8 Posted August 1, 2012 what the 1200 can do that 1300 cannot is simple change the clutch spring pressure. The 1200 has 6 coil springs that can be changed for stiffer springs... Barnett actually had the kit that did all this when they saw the new clutch design. Which I never liked and changed by buying 1200 parts. That INNER clutch and pressure plate is a great thing. Don't thow that out. Since it's not in the frame connected to the rear wheel. You may need an impact wrench to get it out...SAVE IT if possible
dingy Posted August 2, 2012 #9 Posted August 2, 2012 what the 1200 can do that 1300 cannot is simple change the clutch spring pressure. The 1200 has 6 coil springs that can be changed for stiffer springs... Barnett actually had the kit that did all this when they saw the new clutch design. Which I never liked and changed by buying 1200 parts. That INNER clutch and pressure plate is a great thing. Don't thow that out. Since it's not in the frame connected to the rear wheel. You may need an impact wrench to get it out...SAVE IT if possible Actually, after rereading your post Jason, I think you will realize the crank is not directly connected to the clutch, thus having no impact on what ever clutch basket set is in block. Reason I am interested in getting a spare is I broke a tooth off the cam gears 2 winters ago, and realized that the 1200 & 1300 cranks are the same part number. One of my VMax contacts will regrind a crank to what is termed a Stroker. This entails turning the rod journals down in diameter a little on an off center axis. The top of the journal as it is facing the cylinder head at its closest point is kept fairly untouched. The journal has metal taken away primarily on the opposite side, in a circular cut of course. The rods are replaced with a set having a smaller crank bore. This causes the compression stroke (and exhaust) to keep the top deck height of the piston at the same distance from the head, so the valves don't crash into it. But on the down stroke, the piston will travel somewhat farther down into the bore of the cylinder. This allows for a higher CC rating and corresponding increase in the compression ratio. I have a double diaphragm clutch spring in this motor, which does not slip. Also is high clutch lever pull pressure, but the HP wizard giveth and also taketh away Just another wild ass idea I am considering. Gary
pmelah Posted August 3, 2012 #10 Posted August 3, 2012 man Dingy i need a shop like yours lots of room nice clean and well lighted (with out the jar of vasaline of course:whistling:)seriously i live in a moble home trailer in a park and dream of having a shop
icebrrg3rd Posted August 3, 2012 Author #11 Posted August 3, 2012 jasonm, the parts motor had been stripped of almost all parts (that could be sold) when I got it, like covers, clutch basket, starter, so I had to re-use my 1200 clutch on it. The only thing left on was the big metal thingy for the stator and the starter clutch, which I am keeping. So I really don't have many parts left over other than the engine case, heads, and rotating internals. dingy, I'll hopefully get it packed up and weighed this weekend and see what the cost will be, do you want it sent cheap parcel post, no insurance? pmelah, I too wish for a nice workshop like that. My current workshop is my FIL's garage, which is why now that my bike is running again, I need to have all the "spare parts" out so he can work on his projects. My basement can only hold so much cycle parts, so I got to get rid of the extras. -Andrew
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now