Carb mount thing

[jimmyenglish]

Hi everyone,

 

Just noticed the carb mount, throat thing on on the front left cyl is cracked. That would explain all the goo. What are these called? Can they be fixed? Looks like a little epoxy might do it maybe. Does anybody have any they would like to sell?

 

 

Thanks!

[jimmyenglish]

The parts fiche calls it a "carburator joint." $45!!! Turns out all of mine have cracks. Anyone have a source for some good used ones?

[Rocket]

The parts fiche calls it a "carburator joint." $45!!! Turns out all of mine have cracks. Anyone have a source for some good used ones?

 

 

How about NEW ones http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=2461

$65.99 for all 4 of them.

 

Remember we still get a discount from them (the last I heard), you may need to E-mail them, for the discount to be applied to the order.

[dingy]

The outer rubber shell has been questioned on here before. The general consensus seems to be that cracking in the outer rubber does not impact the sealing of the inner core. Seem to recall this core was metal.

 

Rubber is a cosmetic issue, but does not affect performance.

 

Gary

[MiCarl]

The interior ages a lot slower than the exterior. I don't think they have a metal core. But surface cracking on the exterior isn't an issue. If they crack clear through they'll leak and need to be patched or replaced.

[jasonm.]

The outer rubber shell has been questioned on here before. The general consensus seems to be that cracking in the outer rubber does not impact the sealing of the inner core. Seem to recall this core was metal.

 

Rubber is a cosmetic issue, but does not affect performance.

 

Gary

But the o-rings below them can fail. I had one go bad....which caused the bike to die unless I kept ther choke on for a long time. Another wat to know if the oring is bad...how many CCW of low speed screw does it take to get the engine to smooth out...any more than 3.5 could be a sign. Especially if you need to go past 5 ccw.

[jimmyenglish]

Hmmm. Now I don't know. Bike runs and idles fine. This joint in pic was the only one covered in goo after about 15k. Front left. This is post cleaning. Guess I'll keep an eye on it and see where it begins.

[KIC]

I believe you have an 86..I have 2 84 parts bikes with those on them. We would have to figure out if they are the same 84 and an 86.

 

I'm sure the answer will pop up here...

 

And wouldn't the front right and the rear left be the same ?

[mbrood]

When you unbolt one, you can feel the difference in weight. They have a metal core from the engine mount and about half way up the boot with the upper section all rubber. Most cracking is in the lower half, probably from engine heat. You can use black RTV to fill the cracks to make it more cosmetically pleasing but they won't leak from the lower half.

[johnnydemonic]

Yeah, I was going to suggest black rtv as well.

 

You should be able to check leakage by spraying some wd-40 at the boots while the engine is running, if rpm's decrease, there is leakage, if not, then there isn't.

[mbrood]

I believe the front right and rear left are the same animal... and the front left and rear right are a slightly different critter.

[Flyinfool]

That is what all of mine look like. I did the leak check and they are not leaking. I was told that that cracking is just cosmetic since there is metal on the inside right there. I used carb cleaner for the check since it is less messy than spraying the engine down with oil. At least I made a clean spot in the process.

[johnnydemonic]

I'm not positive, but I think carb cleaner will ignite like fuel, and give a false "reading"...the reasoning for using wd-40 is that it WILL NOT ignite in the engine, therefore it lowers the rpm's if the engine sucks it in through a vacuum leak.

 

And it washes right back off easily, and doesn't degrade rubber hoses or carb boots.

 

In fact, it is probably good for them.