carbs from pinwall

[kwisor]

hello

i will getting my carbs from pinwall tomorrow what all do i need to do before i put them on the bike i will of corse be putting sea foam in the tank first time and i hope that this will fix my proble with the rt rear cycl

bumble bee

1999 rsv

[BuddyRich]

I never saw a response but did you happen to remove the air filters and check? Also be sure to check the plumbing while you have it apart if you don't find anything in the air boxes.

[kwisor]

i have k&n filters i just cleaned and reoiled them right before i started having problems when i put the carbs on will ck all the air box pluming

bumble bee

[pmelah]

hope all works out for you keep us posted

[Venturous Randy]

i have k&n filters i just cleaned and reoiled them right before i started having problems when i put the carbs on will ck all the air box pluming

bumble bee

 

 

K&N filter(S)? Are you using the stock air box?

As far as the carbs from Pinwall, I would definate go though the carbs and clean them, especially the pilot jets in the little manifold under the rubber plugs.

RandyA

[BuddyRich]

Try putting the OEM filters back on. It really sounds like an air flow problem not that you have said that.

[Cougar]

maybe way to much oil on them filters then....

[pmelah]

but its still odd that he has 140 compression in all but the cylinder he is having problems with im no expert on this but i dont think over oiled filter will cause a 130 comprision in one cyclinder but i could be wrong thats why i joined this family we have experts on here and its free for the asking

[kwisor]

the k&n have been on the bike for the last 6 years and never a problem but i will clean them again and if it was to much oil i would thing that it would efficet more then just one cycl and with the air box off the bike still runs bad

bumble bee

1999 rsv

[dingy]

but its still odd that he has 140 compression in all but the cylinder he is having problems with im no expert on this but i dont think over oiled filter will cause a 130 comprision in one cyclinder but i could be wrong thats why i joined this family we have experts on here and its free for the asking

 

If there is only a difference of 10 psi from the low to high, then it is within normally accepted range. 10% high to low is acceptable.

 

I have a 10 psi difference on mine right after it was rebuilt. I did not replace rings as they were all well within tolerance. I had one at 195, two at 190 & one at 185. These are not normal compression readings BTW, motor has been modified a little.

 

As far as going through the carbs, You have no idea what they have been treated like. At a minimum, check the diaphragms for pin holes around outer edge. Take fuel bowl cover off and see what inside looks like. See if the sliders operate freely. You should probably get (4) basic carb kits if you want to look at every thing. MiCarl can get these. They will be around $25 each.

 

Carbs will have to be synced at a bare minimum.

 

Gary

[Bubber]

hello

i will getting my carbs from pinwall tomorrow what all do i need to do before i put them on the bike i will of corse be putting sea foam in the tank first time and i hope that this will fix my proble with the rt rear cycl

bumble bee

1999 rsv

 

As long as they are off I would go and check the float levels per VGoose's write up.

just makes sense to me to do this while you can at no cost or real time.

 

Bubber

[steamer]

I hope the new carbs fix the problem, but I can't help thinking this is probably some easy fix being over looked. I would hate to see you spend all that money on new carbs and still have the same problem. Is there no one here that lives close to you that can take a look at your bike? I have had my carbs off both bikes a couple of times now, and believe me, it is easy to screw up something while they are off and when reinstalling them. I know from experance. so be very careful.

[V7Goose]

I do not know how you tested compression, but your numbers are totally unacceptable. The difference between the cylinders is not excessive, but 140 lbs is WAY TOO LOW. For the 2ng gen engine, 185 psi is MINIMUM, standard compression is 216 psi.

 

Properly checking compression requires the engine to be warm, all spark plugs out, and the throttle held wide open. Not doing ALL of those things will yield much lower numbers.

 

As for checking the new mystery carbs - Start by making sure you did not get a set of California carbs - these have a couple of extra vents you will need to deal with. At a minimum you need to remove all the jets and clean them with spray cleaner. I personally recommend only using Gumout Brand spray cleaner - some others have proven to do significant rubber damage. Also spray some cleaner through all the passages, followed by compressed air. While the jets are out, verify they are all stock sizes and in the right position (there are three different main jet sizes, so do NOT mix them up). In my opinion, any changes in jet sizes on this engine are ALWAYS folly, so if someone has been screwing around there, consider buying new jets.

 

Remove the diaphragms and inspect carefully for even pinhole leaks, and don't forget to do the coasting enrichment diaphragms too. While you have the slides out, you will want to check the proper needle position - probably compare with one of your old carbs. Some owners just cannot resist screwing things up by modifying things they simply do not understand! Make sure the o-ring is properly seated on the air passage when putting the cap back on - this is critical. Make sure the choke plungers are clean and operating evenly and smoothly. Inspect the float valve needle tips and o-rings. Properly set float levels. Check/set the throttle positioning sensor. Set all air mixture screws to 4 turns out, then adjust for max RPM after the bike is warmed up and running properly.

 

When you put the carbs back on, be absolutely certain your vent/overflow hoses are routed correctly to the front of the air intakes - the vents are absolutely critical for proper operation of CV carbs, so the hoses must not be crimped or kinked, and the openings must be in a protected position.

 

When checking the air mixture screw settings after all is back together, the first step is to slowly screw each one IN to listen for the RPM drop - this will prove that the pilot circuit is open and functioning, then slowly screw out until RPM peaks.

Goose

Edited July 17, 2012 by V7Goose

[pmelah]

I do not know how you tested compression, but your numbers are totally unacceptable. The difference between the cylinders is not excessive, but 140 lbs is WAY TOO LOW. For the 2ng gen engine, 185 psi is MINIMUM, standard compression is 216 psi.

 

Properly checking compression requires the engine to be warm, all spark plugs out, and the throttle held wide open. Not doing ALL of those things will yield much lower numbers.

 

As for checking the new mystery carbs - Start by making sure you did not get a set of California carbs - these have a couple of extra vents you will need to deal with. At a minimum you need to remove all the jets and clean them with spray cleaner. I personally recommend only using Gumout Brand spray cleaner - some others have proven to do significant rubber damage. Also spray some cleaner through all the passages, followed by compressed air. While the jets are out, verify they are all stock sizes and in the right position (there are three different main jet sizes, so do NOT mix them up). In my opinion, any changes in jet sizes on this engine are ALWAYS folly, so if someone has been screwing around there, consider buying new jets.

 

Remove the diaphragms and inspect carefully for even pinhole leaks, and don't forget to do the coasting enrichment diaphragms too. While you have the slides out, you will want to check the proper needle position - probably compare with one of your old carbs. Some owners just cannot resist screwing things up by modifying things they simply do not understand! Make sure the o-ring is properly seated on the air passage when putting the cap back on - this is critical. Make sure the choke plungers are clean and operating evenly and smoothly. Inspect the float valve needle tips and o-rings. Properly set float levels. Check/set the throttle positioning sensor. Set all air mixture screws to 4 turns out, then adjust for max RPM after the bike is warmed up and running properly.

 

When you put the carbs back on, be absolutely certain your vent/overflow hoses are routed correctly to the front of the air intakes - the vents are absolutely critical for proper operation of CV carbs, so the hoses must not be crimped or kinked, and the openings must be in a protected position.

 

When checking the air mixture screw settings after all is back together, the first step is to slowly screw each one IN to listen for the RPM drop - this will prove that the pilot circuit is open and functioning, then slowly screw out until RPM peaks.

Goose

 

ok now im getting scared and i havent even started on my carbs yet doing the carb swap Goose i may be calling you and trailering my bike to texas for som help on the carbs

 

Bummble Bee keep us posted on how it goes hope it works and your chasing that front wheel soon

[dingy]

Anybody have a picture of a piston out of an RSV ?

 

It would be interesting to see if they are domed. They had to do something in there to get a std 216 psi. The 1st gens 1300's are rated at 176 psi, 1200 are at 171 psi. Even the VMaxs are only at 206 PSI.

 

I am rebuilding a 1300 1st gen as time permits and a set of RSV high compression pistons would be nice.

 

I had the block milled .040 and got up to 185~195.

 

Gary

[Cougar]

Gary, yesterday on pinwall I saw a couple pictures of pistons only on there site for sale. never have seen that before there.

[dingy]

They are on the way to me !!

 

$40 for pistons & rods.

 

Another one of many experiments.

 

Thanks Cougar...

 

Gary

[Cougar]

There ya go.. keep in touch on the out come and your welcome