biker970 Posted July 12, 2012 #1 Posted July 12, 2012 What size battery should I use in NY 1983 venture? I found a 10 ah battery in there. Doesn't seem to be big enough. Was thinking to getting a 22 ah Did the cable upgrade. Still has a slow turnover. Draws down to the yellow on meter when chanking.
Wizard765 Posted July 12, 2012 #2 Posted July 12, 2012 The BEST way to improve the slow turn over is to replace your starter. I got one out of a 2nd Gen on eBay. It spins real fast even when it's hot. I also did the cable upgrade AND got an AGM Battery but it still turned over slow when it was hot until I made that change. 2nd Gen starter bolts right on.
Snaggletooth Posted July 12, 2012 #3 Posted July 12, 2012 (edited) Take some time and consider this battey. It's one of the top choices for your bike. Tough as nails, more CCA than others, same size as original battery and American made. Been in my bike for 4 years and still cranks like the day I got it. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/deka/etx18l.html Compared to OEM and other L/A batteries and comparable AGM's, best buy for the bucks. Mike Edited July 13, 2012 by Snaggletooth
jdross440 Posted July 13, 2012 #4 Posted July 13, 2012 I have one of these in my 90. It is 2 weeks past a year old (1 year warranty) and now when it gets hot, the voltage drops to 10 volts like it has a cell shorting. When it was new it cranked like crazy. I have the later starter from a Vmaxx and upsized wiring. I did pull the label off and pryed the "sealed" caps off last night and there was no water/acid showing at all. I filled it with distilled water and now we will see what happens.
Condor Posted July 13, 2012 #5 Posted July 13, 2012 First off that battery you found in there was something a P.O. tossed in there to make the bike salable, and the big reason for the sluggish starting. Before doing anything else replace it with one of the DEKA ETX18L's. It's the proper footprint for the battery box. It will amaze you....
jdross440 Posted July 16, 2012 #6 Posted July 16, 2012 Adding water and driving about 15 miles did not help. When I get back from vacation I will pull the battery and have it load tested to see if it's the battery or charging system. It has a new stator and regulator (from Sky_doc17). Voltage is good (13.5) until the bike heats up.
KenP Posted July 16, 2012 #7 Posted July 16, 2012 Adding water and driving about 15 miles did not help. When I get back from vacation I will pull the battery and have it load tested to see if it's the battery or charging system. It has a new stator and regulator (from Sky_doc17). Voltage is good (13.5) until the bike heats up. I second what Condor said. I replaced my old lead acid battery with a DEKA, new R/R and stator and haven't have a problem since.......Ken
Snaggletooth Posted July 16, 2012 #8 Posted July 16, 2012 A 15 mile ride isn't going to give you much a charge. And 13.5 volts leaves a bit to be desired. But if you end up needing a battery ...... This thread covers a lot of info on common batteries and types. The info here was one of the reasons the DEKA became popular with our members. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33375 Mike
jdross440 Posted July 16, 2012 #9 Posted July 16, 2012 After the bike heats up the voltage drops to around 11.5. Sometimes down as low as 10.5 when the fan kicks on, even with rpm at 2500-3000. This is measured with a good digital voltmeter. Our outside temp is running in the high 90's to low 100's so the bike heats up pretty fast, especially if I have to stop for a minute. The battery is a deka battery 1 year old the first of July.
Condor Posted July 16, 2012 #10 Posted July 16, 2012 After the bike heats up the voltage drops to around 11.5. Sometimes down as low as 10.5 when the fan kicks on, even with rpm at 2500-3000. This is measured with a good digital voltmeter. Our outside temp is running in the high 90's to low 100's so the bike heats up pretty fast, especially if I have to stop for a minute. The battery is a deka battery 1 year old the first of July. You might try tossing in another rectifier to see what happens to your charge rate before going after the stator.... The rectifier controls the stator output when a load is sensed. Also pull the DEKA and put it on a smart charger. Once it's full check the voltage. Should be 12.7-12.9vdc, and taper off to 12.6vdc over night...
jdross440 Posted July 26, 2012 #11 Posted July 26, 2012 Charged the battery overnite with a 2 amp charger that goes to zero when battery gets charged. It was showing 12.6 volts. Let it sit all day in the back of my truck and took it to Autozone. They tested it and it showed only 74% charge remaining. I went to Advance Auto and bought thier equivalent to the DEKA battery (same part number, CCA, size and warranty). I have only driven it one day and it appears to be better (40 miles roundtrip). Voltage is still only going up to about 13.5 at 4K rpm. Outside temp was 102. After shutting it off for 5 minutes, it started right up (no slow cranking) (voltage was showing 12.3 in the accessory position before starting). We will see after a few more days as it's supposed to be in excess of 100 degrees for the next week (so far we have had 17 days in a row of over 100 degrees). By the way, used the code VISA online and got a $30 discount, so with taxes it was &74.11 and picked up at local store.
ddoggma Posted July 26, 2012 #12 Posted July 26, 2012 I got that DEKA Batt from advanced auto also. It solved my starting worries. Seems to be holding up well. Had it 4 months now.
jasonm. Posted July 29, 2012 #13 Posted July 29, 2012 Charged the battery overnite with a 2 amp charger that goes to zero when battery gets charged. It was showing 12.6 volts. Let it sit all day in the back of my truck and took it to Autozone. They tested it and it showed only 74% charge remaining. I went to Advance Auto and bought thier equivalent to the DEKA battery (same part number, CCA, size and warranty). I have only driven it one day and it appears to be better (40 miles roundtrip). Voltage is still only going up to about 13.5 at 4K rpm. Outside temp was 102. After shutting it off for 5 minutes, it started right up (no slow cranking) (voltage was showing 12.3 in the accessory position before starting). We will see after a few more days as it's supposed to be in excess of 100 degrees for the next week (so far we have had 17 days in a row of over 100 degrees). By the way, used the code VISA online and got a $30 discount, so with taxes it was &74.11 and picked up at local store. Is your battery a sealed type..AGM now? These are for most, the BEST. Mine sits 7 days between rides. And prior to start voltage(key off) is always 12.9v. It's a WestCo. IT'S 10 years old! FYI- a bad battery can cause you stator to go bad..."over heat".
Flyinfool Posted July 29, 2012 #14 Posted July 29, 2012 13.5V @ 4K is a little low. Check and clean both ends of all of the wires to the battery and the main fuse and the connectors in and out of the regulator.
biker970 Posted July 31, 2012 Author #15 Posted July 31, 2012 Changed out battery to a high prof agm battery. Starts like new. What is the fix for the battery indicator light on dash? Sealed batteries don't come with the port for the sensor!
KenP Posted July 31, 2012 #16 Posted July 31, 2012 Changed out battery to a high prof agm battery. Starts like new. What is the fix for the battery indicator light on dash? Sealed batteries don't come with the port for the sensor! See this link under First Gen Tech Articles...... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489
jdross440 Posted August 1, 2012 #18 Posted August 1, 2012 13.5V @ 4K is a little low. Check and clean both ends of all of the wires to the battery and the main fuse and the connectors in and out of the regulator. Have brand new stator and regulator from Skydoc. Connections are all new except at battery, however they are clean and look new. When the bike warms up to close to fan operating temp (we are having temps in the 101 to 111 range so it warms up quickly and I drive one way 18 miles) the voltage drops to around 12.1 (measured at the accessory connection so digital meter isn't on all the time). At idle it will drop to closer to 10.5 to 11 volts). After shutting off bike and just turning key to accessory position the voltage will show about 12.3.
Condor Posted August 1, 2012 #19 Posted August 1, 2012 Have brand new stator and regulator from Skydoc. Connections are all new except at battery, however they are clean and look new. When the bike warms up to close to fan operating temp (we are having temps in the 101 to 111 range so it warms up quickly and I drive one way 18 miles) the voltage drops to around 12.1 (measured at the accessory connection so digital meter isn't on all the time). At idle it will drop to closer to 10.5 to 11 volts). After shutting off bike and just turning key to accessory position the voltage will show about 12.3. Are you using a multi-meter or one of those permanent aftermarket lcd dash displays to check voltage?? You might try another multi-meter. I don't trust those on dash models. With what you're saying it's possible you might have a bad rectifier.... Unless you've changed the location of the rectifier it does get pretty hot where it's mounted. However.... I've run my '83VR with a DEKA acrossed Nevada in 100+ temps for 1000+ miles and never had a problem with the battery not staying charged. PS. I don't know if it's already been mentioned but have you cleaned the battery ground wire where it attaches to the frame down by the waterpump on the right side of the bike?? A bad ground will screw things up...
jdross440 Posted August 2, 2012 #20 Posted August 2, 2012 Yes, all connections clean. I mounted the rectifier on the bottom side of the rear trunk where it can get plenty of air. I am using an aftermarket dash mounted digital meter and comparing it to a high dollar calibrated digital handheld meter. I guess I need to contact Skydoc since it is his parts.
pmelah Posted August 2, 2012 #21 Posted August 2, 2012 question i got an acid battery i filled the cells and charged it its got 5 cells and another cap for what looks like a cell but its full of acid is the extra hole which i can see the plates thru the hole is that for the probe sencer i have to wait on a get battery only had enough for acid battery
Flyinfool Posted August 2, 2012 #22 Posted August 2, 2012 question i got an acid battery i filled the cells and charged it its got 5 cells and another cap for what looks like a cell but its full of acid is the extra hole which i can see the plates thru the hole is that for the probe sencer i have to wait on a get battery only had enough for acid battery The battery should have 6 cells did you miss filling one?. If it really only has 5 cells then it is only a 10V battery and will not work on your bike. A picture of what you have would be most helpful here.
pmelah Posted August 2, 2012 #23 Posted August 2, 2012 its what the computer pulled up for a part # and its holding 12.7v and i had to look its 6 cells but what is the 7th hole fore does the probe go into the acid
Snaggletooth Posted August 2, 2012 #24 Posted August 2, 2012 its what the computer pulled up for a part # and its holding 12.7v and i had to look its 6 cells but what is the 7th hole fore does the probe go into the acid The probe is actually a mini battery in itself so yes, it must be down into the elecrolite to work. That is why the red warning light flashes when the fluid gets low. The probe is no longer generating a volt reading.
pmelah Posted August 2, 2012 #25 Posted August 2, 2012 ok thanks i think i have to add a little more acid cause its still flashing
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