Stator info and cooling kit

[bkuhr]

Due to difficulty of reading the technical bulletin in the back of the parts manual in the library, I retyped the two bulletins pertaining to the stator cooling kits.

 

heres some pics.....it looks the same as last time. the right side coils are black....

 

 

 

 

 

here are some more pics of housing/generator. it looks as if there are 3 bolts inside there, and the heads have been shaved off....no idea what this means. maybe the screws that are holding the stator in are rubbing against them....help? there are also 3 threaded holes that are empty...not sure why these are there..... can anyone tell me what the correct Lent of the screws that hold the stator in place are??? I'm wondering if the PO put in the wrong length, and the screw heads are rubbing...causing extra heat and failure...?????

 

 

 

 

Reddevilmedic with burned coils from 1-7 o'clock, does not appear to be lack of oil cooling mentioned in TA, but please make sure your outside baffel is in place under the inspection cover. The inside baffle on the stator looks correct, but there is no mention of ANY washers. Practice states stator screws are red locktite, and hand impact installed.

 

Also I can't not see the wire (shaft 1) inside the bolt hole, pretty sure I could on mine. Stick a small wire in the hole and feel for shaft 1.

 

1 final interesting note, is I think I count exactly 6 burned coils, exactly 1/3 of the 3 phase stator. Possible for some reason you have one of the three phases overloaded. As the stator is directly wired ONLY to the regulator/rectifier, this leaves the options for overload limited to the RR ac volt side or the 3 white ac wires. If not already done, I suggest you remove the 3 pin connector between stator and RR. Also do the diode ohm test on your current RR. If even doubtful don't use it on another, 3rd, stator

 

Would strongly suggest to get a clamp amp meter. When you get all back together, test each white wire with clamp meter. They should be about the same amps. Harbor freight has a couple cheap ones should workfor this test:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=clamp+meter

 

69166.doc 69167.doc

Edited February 22, 2016 by Freebird
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[reddevilmedic]

diode tests on rr were good last time, so i didnt replce it with the second stator. but it sure burned up quick. i also had the rr mounted in original location. it was all hardwired... i fed a small wire thru bolt to make sure it was clear. this time, Ricks stator, Shidigen rr, mounted at front of bike to stay cooler. gaskets will be here tomorrow. ready to try again....

[dingy]

Attached are good scans of the technical bulletin that went to dealers for the stator cooling kit.

 

I got a technical training manual that Yamaha issued in 1987, so I should have all the tech bulletins up till then. Just haven't got them scanned and posted yet.

 

Gary

 

 

Edited February 22, 2016 by Freebird

[bkuhr]

Now you show a good copy, after all that typing.

[dingy]

You didn't ask, I'm not a mind reader !!!

 

 

Whats interesting is on the last page in the letter to customers it says this repair will be honored even if bike is out of warranty. Anybody want to try ??

 

Gary

[Rocket]

You didn't ask, I'm not a mind reader !!!

 

 

Whats interesting is on the last page in the letter to customers it says this repair will be honored even if bike is out of warranty. Anybody want to try ??

 

Gary

 

Stator Kit for Registered & Demo bikes with over 28 miles also gets a new stator (from the first page)......

If this fix is not listed as being done, there is a slim chance of a free stator & cooling kit install (have a printout of the TB on hand, when having the VIN checked for this fix).

[reddevilmedic]

ya right. not gonna even bother taking it to dealer. ive cut out the plugs and hardwired everything, not to mention the last stator wasnt a Yamaha part.