Help with trunk repair!!!

[Max]

20 hours to tentative departure (minus time to post this) for 3 week east coast trip and I find a missing piece of plastic and cracked plastic around backrest to trunk connection last night. I've read of this problem somewhere, should have payed closer attention to these threads. Get right to it, looking for any advice next 12 hours for temp fix to get thru trip & NYRally. Materials I've picked up : A pint of 2 part Dominion Plastic repair Rigid Flex Bonder, JB Weld putty stick, PF230 pinch&bond weld primer, 14 gauge sheet metal.

Plan is to cut 2 pieces sheet metal, one for the missing piece and a large one to replace the existing metal plate and cover the entire cracked area from the inside. I've worked on small areas prior with the Dominion plastic. Not to sure about the long term affects on plastic using the PF250, so might drop that step.

 

Any suggestions welcome (1st gen one liners:no-no-no:) Off to cut up some sheet metal... Will check back periodically.

 

thanks Max

[utadventure]

I had the same issue with my '86 when I got it in 2005.

 

I was fortunate enough to have the trunk pieces that broke out. I used ABS glue to reinsert the missing pieces and seal the cracks that had occurred.

 

Next I took and coated the entire inside of the backrest area with ABS glue and worked a piece of fiberglass cloth into the glue and coated it again with ABS glue.

 

Final step was to put a final coat of ABS glue and added a piece of clear plastic to the area. I redrilled the necessary holes to reattach the mirror and put everything back together.

 

It has held up well since then.

 

Good luck on your repair!!

 

Dave

[Max]

I had the same issue with my '86 when I got it in 2005.

 

I was fortunate enough to have the trunk pieces that broke out. I used ABS glue to reinsert the missing pieces and seal the cracks that had occurred.

 

Next I took and coated the entire inside of the backrest area with ABS glue and worked a piece of fiberglass cloth into the glue and coated it again with ABS glue.

 

Final step was to put a final coat of ABS glue and added a piece of clear plastic to the area. I redrilled the necessary holes to reattach the mirror and put everything back together.

 

It has held up well since then.

 

Good luck on your repair!!

 

Dave

 

found a white abs end cap and fabricated the missing piece (same thickness) ... off to pick up some abs glue.

[IH Truck Guy]

I did mine 5 years ago..

I roughed up the affected area and it bonded real well.

But now,the whole patch is seperating and starting to lift off...

Looks like another winter project.....

[utadventure]

One Caution - the ABS glue does set up after only a short time (30-60 seconds) and then cures after that.

[Yamamike]

20 hours to tentative departure (minus time to post this) for 3 week east coast trip and I find a missing piece of plastic and cracked plastic around backrest to trunk connection last night. I've read of this problem somewhere, should have payed closer attention to these threads. Get right to it, looking for any advice next 12 hours for temp fix to get thru trip & NYRally. Materials I've picked up : A pint of 2 part Dominion Plastic repair Rigid Flex Bonder, JB Weld putty stick, PF230 pinch&bond weld primer, 14 gauge sheet metal.

Plan is to cut 2 pieces sheet metal, one for the missing piece and a large one to replace the existing metal plate and cover the entire cracked area from the inside. I've worked on small areas prior with the Dominion plastic. Not to sure about the long term affects on plastic using the PF250, so might drop that step.

 

Any suggestions welcome (1st gen one liners:no-no-no:) Off to cut up some sheet metal... Will check back periodically.

 

thanks Max

 

This Dominion Sure Seal product looks promising...anyone used it successfully?

[Max]

This Dominion Sure Seal product looks promising...anyone used it successfully?

 

Used the 2 part Dominion SS syringe applicator last year to patch and reinforce rearview mirror mount plastic. Depending on mix ratio gives 5-20 sec window to apply and mold. This epoxy appears to be holding just fine.

 

Glued piece in ok, ready to epoxy metal reinforcement strip in place.

[Marcarl]

Just make sure that everything is clean, dry and ruffed up. Paint does not bond, and you have paint on both surfaces. Use thin layers and cover the area well. You should be good to go.

[Yammer Dan]

Sine I'm a 1st Gen guy I'll just be quiet!!

 

 

Sounds like you got it going there. Good Luck!!

[Brown Angel]

20 hours to tentative departure (minus time to post this) for 3 week east coast trip and I find a missing piece of plastic and cracked plastic around backrest to trunk connection last night. I've read of this problem somewhere, should have payed closer attention to these threads. Get right to it, looking for any advice next 12 hours for temp fix to get thru trip & NYRally. Materials I've picked up : A pint of 2 part Dominion Plastic repair Rigid Flex Bonder, JB Weld putty stick, PF230 pinch&bond weld primer, 14 gauge sheet metal.

Plan is to cut 2 pieces sheet metal, one for the missing piece and a large one to replace the existing metal plate and cover the entire cracked area from the inside. I've worked on small areas prior with the Dominion plastic. Not to sure about the long term affects on plastic using the PF250, so might drop that step.

 

Any suggestions welcome (1st gen one liners:no-no-no:) Off to cut up some sheet metal... Will check back periodically.

 

thanks Max

 

[ame]

[/ame] let me know if you get this , its great way to fix our bikes cracks .

[Solodadof2]

I put Dyno Don onto a product called plasti-fix and as far as I know he was very happy with the results. he may chime in a t some point

[bongobobny]

I once saw a trunk with a metal plate fabricated and drilled and bonded to the whole area inside the trunk there...

[TRnCO]

that's a great youtube tutorial. I'll be trying to fix a couple of busted off tabs on my side panels with that method in the near future.

[Ozlander]

20 hours to tentative departure (minus time to post this) for 3 week east coast trip and I find a missing piece of plastic and cracked plastic around backrest to trunk connection last night. I've read of this problem somewhere, should have payed closer attention to these threads. Get right to it, looking for any advice next 12 hours for temp fix to get thru trip & NYRally. Materials I've picked up : A pint of 2 part Dominion Plastic repair Rigid Flex Bonder, JB Weld putty stick, PF230 pinch&bond weld primer, 14 gauge sheet metal.

Plan is to cut 2 pieces sheet metal, one for the missing piece and a large one to replace the existing metal plate and cover the entire cracked area from the inside. I've worked on small areas prior with the Dominion plastic. Not to sure about the long term affects on plastic using the PF250, so might drop that step.

 

Any suggestions welcome (1st gen one liners:no-no-no:) Off to cut up some sheet metal... Will check back periodically.

 

thanks Max

 

I looked at mine. I fiberglassed a .062 alum plate to the front side of the trunk and reinforced the inside with more fiberglass and maybe some metal, but I couldn't see it.

I did this 15 or more years ago and it still holding.

[Evan]

I understand this is a common problem. I patched my with Plastex and it held for about three years before it started to crack again. So, like a few that have already posted, I removed my back rest and put a light metal plate on the front of the trunk. No problem since them. It is a strong fix and cosmetically, you don't see the plate at all.

[Max]

yowza, what an intense day,, we are good to go for the AM.

 

I had the same issue with my '86 when I got it in 2005.

 

I was fortunate enough to have the trunk pieces that broke out. I used ABS glue to reinsert the missing pieces and seal the cracks that had occurred.

 

Next I took and coated the entire inside of the backrest area with ABS glue and worked a piece of fiberglass cloth into the glue and coated it again with ABS glue.

 

Final step was to put a final coat of ABS glue and added a piece of clear plastic to the area. I redrilled the necessary holes to reattach the mirror and put everything back together.

 

It has held up well since then.

 

Good luck on your repair!!

 

Dave

 

abs held well for the inserted piece

 

I did mine 5 years ago..

I roughed up the affected area and it bonded real well.

But now,the whole patch is seperating and starting to lift off...

Looks like another winter project.....

 

the repair appears somewhat stronger than originally anticipated, I'm hoping it holds till end o season.

 

One Caution - the ABS glue does set up after only a short time (30-60 seconds) and then cures after that.

 

check, got lucky on the timing

 

This Dominion Sure Seal product looks promising...anyone used it successfully?

 

yes, great success! they have a variety of plastic products, used 'Dominion Sure Seal - Plastic Surgery - Rigid Flex Bonder-XRFNTR' this stuff is slick to work with. had at least 1 hour work time per application. the compound has some viscosity so it didn't run much on the angled surfaces. used heat lamp for final speed cure which took 15 min to harden. air cure takes 18 hours. so, longterm?...we'll see.

 

Just make sure that everything is clean, dry and ruffed up. Paint does not bond, and you have paint on both surfaces. Use thin layers and cover the area well. You should be good to go.

 

check on that, sanded the epoxied side to the metal and left the other side painted as it's exposed.

 

let me know if you get this , its great way to fix our bikes cracks .

 

man that is one serious video. sure makes it look easy. too bad I missed it by an hour . would have used his solder iron dabbing stitch technique. there isn't much meat there to sink copper staples.

 

I once saw a trunk with a metal plate fabricated and drilled and bonded to the whole area inside the trunk there...

 

I can see that happening on the short 'winter project' list.

 

thanks all .. Max

[Max]

I looked at mine. I fiberglassed a .062 alum plate to the front side of the trunk and reinforced the inside with more fiberglass and maybe some metal, but I couldn't see it.

I did this 15 or more years ago and it still holding.

 

I understand this is a common problem. I patched my with Plastex and it held for about three years before it started to crack again. So, like a few that have already posted, I removed my back rest and put a light metal plate on the front of the trunk. No problem since them. It is a strong fix and cosmetically, you don't see the plate at all.

 

i agree, ideally both sides should be done for longevity. yep, the more I think about it, the total reinforcement will happen. waiting to see how this Dominion plastic holds out against the steel plate.

 

9 hours and counting

[jasonm.]

I patched mine 15+ years ago w/Devcon Plastic Welder. I reinforced it w/1/4" plexiglass. Heated to form a perfect shape of ALL irregular bends. A good amount of Devcon is needed and it sets up FAST, get spares. And smells bad while setting up. Use outsdie. HELLO...still holding no issues. You can do multiple layers of reinforcement to make it strong as "steel" w/o the weight. Especially if you always have a passenger. FYI...your trunk will likely also crack on the LOWER trunk...unless you reinforce it.

Devcon available at True Value hardware stores and sometimes WalMart.