Stator...Which One?

[Wizard765]

It appears I need a stator.. or I think I do. I changed the regulator for the new one and still no charge. When we test the stator with the bike running and the 3 white wires disconnected we get voltage across any combination of 18 to 40 or more AC depending on the RPM so we thought the stator was fine. BUT if we do a continuity test to ground each of the 3 wires are grounding to the bike which I believe they should not be doing..

 

So If I need a new stator (the one in is was a new one from Montreal 3 years ago) Which one should I get and from where. Skydoc is reluctant to sell me one of his because I have a Mk1 and apparently the cooling is not as efficient so it could burn out.

 

Any ideas are welcome.. any solution would be helpful... Soon would be good as well due to it being riding season and my better half is already complaining. The bike left us stranded 500 Kms from home and it has NEVER failed us like this before. Actually had to trailer it home.. She groaned about that I'm sure

 

Would really like to have a high output IF POSSIBLE..

[muffinman]

I use this one from Ricks motorsports electrics.I have installed a few for others as well with no problems.Rick is a good guy and his staff is very helpfull making sure you get the right part.

Product # (21-405) New OEM Style Yamaha Stator

Description New OEM Style Yamaha Stator *Trigger Coil not included

Price $ 140.00

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/prodimages/21-405.jpg

 

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=21-405&pmc=ODRZYW1YVloxMjAwVmVudHVyZQ

[XV1100SE]

Wayne - Just get a 2nd Gen !!!

 

Sorry to hear of more problems with your bike.

[Snaggletooth]

I've been using the upgrade from Buckeye Performance for several years (4?) now with no issues at all. I added the Shindengen R/R a year ago and no regrets.

 

Check with Rick at Buckeye on the price, core charge and club discount before ordering. I'm not sure what's up but there there may have been some changes since I bought mine. No issue with the quality of the stator, but price might be more than it was. That said, if this one fails, I'd buy another from him to replace it.

 

Mike

[Coffeepot]

I bought a high output one from RM Stator 3 years ago and still working fine on a MK I with factory cooling kit. They ship from Canada for no unpleasant border extras.

[frankd]

Sorry you had to trailer it. Three times I've had stators go bad (2 grounded, 1 shorted), and each time the bike was able to travel many miles home without the battery going dead. The first time I was in Branson MO. when it went bad. We were also attending the Venture Rally in Harisonburg AR. This was probably in 2000 or so, and it was my 83. By watching the voltmeter, I could see that with the radio OFF, as long as I wasn't traveling slow, the battery would charge a tiny bit. Three days later, we left for home 600 miles away and made it just fine. I did notice the voltmeter down lower than normal soon after it happened so the battery wasn't dead before I knew I had problems. Heck, I even rode the bike to work all week with the bad stator until the replacement arrived. THe trick is to not sit a stops with your brake light on, and stay out of traffic as much as possible. Then it happened a couple of years ago on my 89--It's a Royale, and with it I turned off the radio, intercom, CB and cruise control and at highway speeds it started to charge the battery slowly. On this one I almost ran the battery dead before I noticed it was hardly charging. Then the stator on the 83 went bad again. My brother charged the battery up and then rode it up to my house 190 miles away. The battery was about fully charged when he got here. I just cautioned him to keep the driving lights and radio off. What I'm saying that most times when a stator goes bad if you turn everything uneeded off and stay out of traffic as much as possible, you can keep on going. But you have nothing to spare....it only charges a tiny bit.

[bongobobny]

Well, that answers my question from Evan's thread! I too have the RPM stator but as you, know Goldie hasn't been running for quite a while now so I can't quote the longevity. It waqs only the early MK1's that needed the cooling modification, the later ones had a factory fix. I might still havfe one of those kits laying around but at this point I'm not sure where it would be if I do indeed dtill have it...

[Wizard765]

Bob:

 

What does the "factory fix" consist of?

[Rocket]

It appears I need a stator.. or I think I do. I changed the regulator for the new one and still no charge. When we test the stator with the bike running and the 3 white wires disconnected we get voltage across any combination of 18 to 40 or more AC depending on the RPM so we thought the stator was fine. BUT if we do a continuity test to ground each of the 3 wires are grounding to the bike which I believe they should not be doing..

 

Any ideas are welcome.. any solution would be helpful... Soon would be good as well due to it being riding season and my better half is already complaining. The bike left us stranded 500 Kms from home and it has NEVER failed us like this before. Actually had to trailer it home.. She groaned about that I'm sure

 

Would really like to have a high output IF POSSIBLE..

 

Wayne, I have recently ordered 2 of the Ricks Motorsport Electrics stators

Product # (21-405H) New Hot Shot Yamaha Stator

Description New Hot Shot Yamaha Stator: This is a high output stator; will give about 20% more output. http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=21-405H&pmc=ODhZYW1YVloxMzAwVmVudHVyZQ==

 

One was ordered last week as a backup, for the next long distance / duration trip. The second one was ordered today, after my stator failure on the 86 this weekend. I made it over 1,000 Km, before getting a ramp truck late last night for the last 50 Km to home.

 

BTW my readings were 2 legs in the 11 Volt AC range & 1 leg in the 8 Volt AC range.

[chabicheka]

Wayne - Just get a 2nd Gen !!!

 

Sorry to hear of more problems with your bike.

 

Take Don's advise, Wayne....

I know of a nice Millenium that's for sale....

[reddevilmedic]

Skydocs reluctant to sell you one of his because of issues with mine. i have an mk1 and burned up 2 stators in 6 months. one lasting 4000 miles, the other about 400. the latter stranding me in detroit. i was on my way to the Keys. i have the factory cooling kit installed. left us both scratching our heads. its not earls fault, or his suppliers..its the damn bikes design! i just trailered the bike home yesterday and have yet to pull the second stator out, but, im sure its gonna be burned up. i decided to go with Ricks and a Shindigen R/R. just recieved both of them yesterday. heres the plan: put in Ricks HO stator, move Shindigen from stock location to fairing. Shindigen goes directly to battery and grounds to bike. it is of Moffset construction. comes with nice plug kit, which i got ready for tomorrows install. after great discussion with earl, i decided to "open up" the cooling hole for the stator....just a little. to allow for a little more oil into side case. im using Amsoil. i went to the Keys anyhow!

[Squidley]

Take Don's advise, Wayne....

I know of a nice Millenium that's for sale....

 

...and would that MMRSV be in Canada by chance?

[bkuhr]

i have the factory cooling kit installed. left us both scratching our heads. its not earls fault, or his suppliers..its the damn bikes design!

 

Cool kit was revised 2 times. Second revision included larger hole in the bolt and the wire in the hole to prevent clogging. If you were able to "open" the hole, then I suspect you do not have the wire installed. This could add to your coolong problem.

 

The kit pn was 90891-30014. I found a NOS kit on ebay for mine.

[chabicheka]

...and would that MMRSV be in Canada by chance?

 

Yup.......mine.

[reddevilmedic]

Cool kit was revised 2 times. Second revision included larger hole in the bolt and the wire in the hole to prevent clogging. If you were able to "open" the hole, then I suspect you do not have the wire installed. This could add to your coolong problem.

 

The kit pn was 90891-30014. I found a NOS kit on ebay for mine.

 

i have the wire in mine. if i open it up a little, will the wire come loose? i mean, is the wire different from 1st and 2nd revisions?? or is it same wire, different bolt.....

[jasonm.]

Bob:

 

What does the "factory fix" consist of?

remove the chome cover on the stator case. You should see a tiny "pin-hole" in the flywheel bolt. No hole...no cooling kit. I was told all dealers were to put these in NO CHARGE. Mine did when I was the 2nd owner of an '83. If you are worried about clogging. You can take a copper wire strand and run it into the hole...once a year or more. 80k my stator still kicking...hope I did not jinx myself

Edited July 4, 2012 by jasonm.

[bkuhr]

i have the wire in mine. if i open it up a little, will the wire come loose? i mean, is the wire different from 1st and 2nd revisions?? or is it same wire, different bolt.....

 

First cool kit mod had a 0.7mm hole with no wire or oil deflectors.

 

Second cool kit mod had a 1.0mm hole with wire inserted from 'inside' the bolt, and added the oil deflector. The bolt with 1.0mm hole also had a punch mark on the head.

[jasonm.]

First cool kit mod had a 0.7mm hole with no wire or oil deflectors.

 

Second cool kit mod had a 1.0mm hole with wire inserted from 'inside' the bolt, and added the oil deflector. The bolt with 1.0mm hole also had a punch mark on the head.

good to know if I pickup a 1200

[reddevilmedic]

First cool kit mod had a 0.7mm hole with no wire or oil deflectors.

 

Second cool kit mod had a 1.0mm hole with wire inserted from 'inside' the bolt, and added the oil deflector. The bolt with 1.0mm hole also had a punch mark on the head.

 

i, personally, have the bolt with the punch mark AND oil deflectors. still burning up stators. just removed the cover, almost half of stator is smoked! again.

[Ozlander]

I don't know when they changed, but my '89 does NOT have a wire in the bolt. And no I don't know what size the hole is.

I really don't see how the hole could plug up if there's oil flowing thru it all the time.

It seems counterproductive to make the hole bigger and than stick a wire in it.

It also seems counterproductive to make a High Output stator when people are having problems with stators burning up.

 

I think I would use a later model bolt if it was me.

[reddevilmedic]

heres some pics.....it looks the same as last time. the right side coils are black....

[reddevilmedic]

what about alignment? should the stator screws (3) align specifically inside the housing a certain way?? i also have 2 washers on the screws that hold the stator in place. should i try only 1? maybe the depth is off??

[reddevilmedic]

here are some more pics of housing/generator. it looks as if there are 3 bolts inside there, and the heads have been shaved off....no idea what this means. maybe the screws that are holding the stator in are rubbing againt them....help? there are also 3 threaded holes that are empty...not sure why these are there..... can anyone tell me what the correct lenght of the screws that hold the stator in place are??? im wondering if the PO put in the wrong length, and the screw heads are rubbing...causing extra heat and failure...?????

[bkuhr]

heres some pics.....it looks the same as last time. the right side coils are black....

Getting my info from back of the parts manuel 1983 xvz12td_k in the libary.

Looks like cooling kit is properly installed, but looks like part stator is uncovered by oil level,

 

please confirm the burnt part is on a level line with oil level.

[reddevilmedic]

Getting my info from back of the parts manuel 1983 xvz12td_k in the libary.

Looks like cooling kit is properly installed, but looks like part stator is uncovered by oil level,

 

please confirm the burnt part is on a level line with oil level.

 

the burn goes from 1o'clock to 6 o'clock.