swingarm adjustment, 2nd gen

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Ive looked all over the site and I cant find information on adjusting the swingarm bearings on the RSV 2gen and I have misplaced my shop manual CD.

 

Does anyone know the procedure? I'm assuming I will have to remove the headers to get to the nuts with the proper tool. I have popped the covers and I really dont know what I should turn first. I already have the mufflers, the saddlebags, and the rear wheel off the bike for a tire replacement.

 

There is a noticeable amount of sideplay in the swingarm...im guessing its about 1/8 inch movement at the ends of the swingarm.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

[RandyR]

The shopmanual is in the tech section.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

The shopmanual is in the tech section.

 

 

Ok...I guess I dont know where, and I looked. If there is a download section or a files section I have never seen it.

 

 

I will try again.

 

 

 

 

[V7Goose]

Here is the link from the tech library:

http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm

 

Goose

[RSTDdog]

You can try to adjust/ tighten the swing arm bearings to get rid of the side play but you need to disconnect the shock so you can feel the up down movement and make sure its smooth. If it feels notchy now ( upa nd down) or gets notchy when you tighten it, you will need to pull the swing arm and replace the bearings and wear parts and re-pack. THey are taper style bearings similar to the steering head so its possible to over tighten them and cause binding. You may want to take the time now and clean and lube all the pivot joints that connect the bottom of the shock joint to the swing arm. When it all feels nice and smooth withthe shock out, re-instal the shock. Its easy to get the shock out with the rear tire off.

 

RSTDdog

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Thanks...I downloaded that manual and looking at the swingarm pages...its still pretty iffy....

 

 

Looks like I will need to be taking off the headers...and from some other posts it looks like i need a 30mm or 1 3/16 socket....

 

Do you just torque them down till the swingarm is stable? Or should I actually pull the pivot bolts and grease everything?

 

The damn dealer was SUPPOSED to address this issue last year...but apparently he was too busy to mess with it.

 

 

 

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Thanks RSTDdog...thats helpful info.

 

 

This is not my area of expertise. This may turn out to be a major time consumer. With my schedule, it could take a few weeks to get this thing put back together...and that will be dangerously close to my trip to Sturgis.

 

 

So the more info I have, the better decisions I can make as far as buying or ordering tools and parts, setting aside time, and so on.

 

 

Wow...and to think. I bought this bike to get AWAY from wrenching!

 

 

 

 

[RSTDdog]

How many miles do you have? Mine still felt good at 22,000 so I didn't touch it. I lubed all the pivots for the lower dog bone joint and lever arms (levelinglinks) when I installed my new Hagon shock to replace the OEM shock that started leaking. Goose had posted before in another thread that he just checked the torque periodically. I would try that first. I have read the swing arm removal procedure and yes it sounds like alot of work. Not as bad as it sounds. Your half way there now with the tire out. Its really a job you want stay with in one shot and not go back and forth to if possible.

 

I know what your going through. I have been working late on my bike after work and also helping a friend rebuild is E-rude 225 looper. Not enough time in a day and we are leaving soon on a MC vacation ourselves. Trying to find time between now and Friday to change my fork springs. Me thinks its not going to happen.

 

RSTDdog

[allwx]

A 1/8" side to side play in the swingarm is too much. There shouldn't be any detectable play at all. With everything detached from the swingarm (wheel, shock, caliper, etc) the swingarm should move smoothly and easily throughout the extent of its travel, with no side play at all. The book has torque settings. If your bearings and races are OK, those torque settings should make the swingarm right. Not sure I would try torquing those nuts with stuff attached to the swingarm, unless it was an emergency. Good luck with it, and your trip, hope you get it resolved in time. Sucks to get between that rock and hard place.

[bobcat]

I just got my bike (2009 RSV) back today from the dealer (Michael's Yamaha, Reno, Nv)..It was getting the 26,000 mile checkup...

 

Part of the checkup I chose to have them do was greasing the S/A bearings and retorquing the swing arm....I was charged 1 1/2 hr labor for a total price of $127.50..

 

I do most of my own maintanence but from the sound of the previous posts on this subject I'm glad I spent the money and had them do it...

[GeorgeS]

You need two different size Metric Sockets. At least for the 1st Gen. I bought two big sockets, to do the job, ( and the large torque wrench of course ) Those big sockets, cost a few bucks !!! Not cheap !!

[allwx]

Part of the checkup I chose to have them do was greasing the S/A bearings and retorquing the swing arm....I was charged 1 1/2 hr labor for a total price of $127.50..

 

That's a terrific price to do all of that work. I mean, to grease the swingarm bearings the swingarm has to be completely removed. Then the bearings get inspected and repacked. Then the whole sheebang goes back together, and the bearings torqued down properly.

 

Can all of this be done, and done well, in an hour and half?

 

Maybe with a team of mechanics who are intimate with the drill. You are lucky to have access to such a team of mechs. They are hard to find.

[Yammer Dan]

You need two different size Metric Sockets. At least for the 1st Gen. I bought two big sockets, to do the job, ( and the large torque wrench of course ) Those big sockets, cost a few bucks !!! Not cheap !!

 

 

Go to Harbor freight and you can get complete set of larger sockets for what one name brand socket will cost you. Lot of metal in these things and you are not likely to break them and you won't use them too often. I think their tourque wrenches are on sale.

[V7Goose]

I just got my bike (2009 RSV) back today from the dealer (Michael's Yamaha, Reno, Nv)..It was getting the 26,000 mile checkup...

 

Part of the checkup I chose to have them do was greasing the S/A bearings and retorquing the swing arm....I was charged 1 1/2 hr labor for a total price of $127.50..

 

I do most of my own maintanence but from the sound of the previous posts on this subject I'm glad I spent the money and had them do it...

For that price, I'm willing to bet there is no way they did the work you listed. Bike shops are not known for "giving away" hours of work.

Goose

[bobcat]

Oh ye of little faith....I brought my bike to a Yamaha dealer..I doubt they'd charge for work they didn't do especially since I bought the bike from them...You may need a magnifying glass but check out the service order..

[BuddyRich]

I don't remember removing the header but may have. It was about 2 to 3 hours to do it all and wasn't that bad. Its just been about 3 years since I did it. I do remember removing the rear shock. An experienced (good) Yamaha mechanic would probably have it done in about an hour and a half.

[allwx]

Oh ye of little faith....I brought my bike to a Yamaha dealer..I doubt they'd charge for work they didn't do especially since I bought the bike from them...You may need a magnifying glass but check out the service order..

 

You gotta give everybody the benefit of the doubt. However, people who've done this work know how long it takes. Good mechanics with all the right tools and space may be able to do a job like this in around that time, though it still seems too short a time to me.

 

I don't see how it could be done in an hour and a half.

 

No they didn't charge you for work they didn't do. If they charged you for the time it would take a mech to do this job well, you wouldn't likely want to pay the amount.

 

The good news is that this is fairly non-critical. Even if they didn't remove the swingarm at all, the bearings are just fine and will run a long time without a lot of attention. An hour and a half is about what I'd expect a shop to charge me if all they did was to retorque the bearings without any unnecessary disassembly. I'd betcha that's all they did.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Thanks to several member posting in this thread, I was able to attack this job, and also, I had a new rear Dunlop E3 mounted on my wheel. This bike has about 34,000 miles and the swingarm bearings have never been serviced. (see post number 6).

 

 

Ok. The debriefing is as follows:

 

I loosened the headers on the right side, was able to pull it far enough away from the pivot bolt and cover plug on the right to get a 30mm socket in there and torque the pivot bolt down. (loosen the outer locknut, tighten the inner pivot bolt, then torque the outer locknut). The swingarm is now nice and smooth (no sideplay) in its up-down movement with the shock disconnected. However, there is a minute amount of up-down play in the rear most linkage pivot joint. It seems to be the collar and/or the bearings in that part of the relay arm. The up-down movement is not detectable by eyeballing it, but you can feel it. I removed the bolts and collars, greased everything and reassembled things.

 

I made a decision to put it all back together and ride it as is, and will deal with that issue after the trip to Sturgis.

 

I took it for a ride today and the handling is MUCH improved. It feels planted now. Of course, it has a new rear tire, but the handling on turns, on rough milled pavement, and diagonally across lane divisions is 100% improved.

 

The bike isnt handling like a pig anymore. I had kinda gotten used to that, but never liked it.

 

But during the hour long ride I noticed that on one VERY rough area, articulating the bike at slow speeds, I heard a distinctive 'clank' sound from the bike, and now I know what that sound is. I have heard it before occasionally, but never knew what it was. Now I do.

 

I'm assuming the collar and/or bearings will need to be replaced in that part of the relay arm. (relay arm, NOT swingarm)

 

Has anyone done this? Will I need to remove the entire relay arm and have the old bearings pressed out and the new ones pressed in? Or is this a slip-fit arrangement?

 

The parts are not that expensive, so I will probably order them soon. Just wanting to know if this is another big project.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 24, 2012 by tx2sturgis

[RSTDdog]

The swingarm is now nice and smooth (no sideplay) in its up-down movement with the shock disconnected. However, there is a minute amount of up-down play in the rear most linkage pivot joint. It seems to be the collar and/or the bearings in that part of the relay arm. The up-down movement is not detectable by eyeballing it, but you can feel it. I removed the bolts and collars, greased everything and reassembled things.

 

 

But during the hour long ride I noticed that on one VERY rough area, articulating the bike at slow speeds, I heard a distinctive 'clank' sound from the bike, and now I know what that sound is. I have heard it before occasionally, but never knew what it was. Now I do.

 

I'm assuming the collar and/or bearings will need to be replaced in that part of the relay arm. (relay arm, NOT swingarm)

 

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

 

See this thread. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70415 That clank may be the top shock mount. Nothing to replace there however. Its the difference in the bolt ID and Top shock bushing ID. I could make mine make metal sound at top shock mount manipulating the swing arm with the OE shock installed. New Hagon has Much less slop in that top joint than the OE. I noticed some very minor slop in the forward relay arm mount too. If what you saw/felt is a sminor as mine it won't make a clank noise IMO. Be sure all the bolts are really tight> the troque specs are betwen 29 Ft lb and 35 Ft Lbs depending on which Pivot your on. The bearings need to ride on the bushings. If any of those bolts are loose they will move inside the bushing they go through. The top shock mount is 46 ft lbs IIRC.

 

RSTDdog

[LilBeaver]

Good info here. Thanks for taking the time to write up your experienece. Now when can SWING by for my adjustment???