Front neck/steering bearings?

[pick]

Morning all, long time....... My 01 RSV, 79K, I feel that I have a "Notch" on the front end. if I jack the bike up as if to tighten the steering bearings, it will always hit almost what you could call a "flat" spot. I can feel it when I am riding, it seems notched? I was told a bit back when we were in texas with Eck and Sleeperhawk that I didn't have much left in an adjustment?

bottom line, I get a front end shimmy, not good, so I am left to replace the bearings. Stealer wants just over 700.00 for the job, hate to part with that type o dough. From what I've read, it can be done at home, just a bear to pull the races. I do not have a torch, but have a dremel tool. I didn't see any thread on the procedures of r&r'ing the bearings? Anyone close to W. Ga. done this before for some moral support?

 

Thanks, Pick

[RedRider]

Pick,

 

Changing the neck bearings is a real PITA. However, it can be done. I did it last winter.

 

Once you completely remove the front fairing, and remove the front forks, and then take off the steering stem, you have access to the bearings. The top cup (outer ring) is fairly easy to remove by using a puller or a long drift. The bottom one is a real doozy. There are reliefs in the backing shoulder that should allow you to use a long drift to punch it out. Good luck with that.

 

The Dremel is the tool of choice with the lower cup. Just grind out a section and remove it. Make sure to smooth out any burrs left on the shoulder that will prevent the replacement brg cup from fully seating. Keep the old cutup bearing cup as a driver.

 

When reinstalling the new cups, get a long threaded rod, a couple of appropriately sized nuts, and a selection of washers large enough to cover the cup OD. Place the rod thru the steering neck with a washer/nut combo on the top cup front face and then place an appropriately sized washer and nut on the bottom - using the old cup as a driver. You will likely need a stackup of washers to prevent the large washer from bending.

 

Tighten the nuts until you are sure the cups are seated. Check with a sharp dental/mechanical pick to make sure they are completely seated against the mounting shoulders. DO NOT USE THE BEARING CONE (inner race with rollers) TO PRESS IN THE CUPS - THIS WILL DAMAGE THE RACES.

 

When you reassemble and go to set the bearing preload, make sure to rotate the steering neck back and forth while tightening. This straightens the tapered rollers on the races so you will get a true reading. If you don't do this, you will end up with loose bearings. When you are done setting the bearing preload (it is initially set with a higher torque, then backed off, then retightened to a lower torque for the final set), move the neck back and forth some more and recheck the tightening torque on the nut.

 

And yes, I used to be an Application Engineer at Timken Bearing.

 

While you have the front end off, it is a good time for upgrading the front springs to Progressives, replacing fork seals and fluid, and upgrading your brake lines to stainless steel.

 

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

 

RR

[bobcat]

I don't know where that $700 amount came from....I just asked my dealer how much it would cost to grease the upper and lower steering head bearings..He looked in his labor book and said it is a 2 1/2 hour job..at $88 hr. or $220..

 

Probably to remove/install the races is another hours labor plus the cost of new bearings but still you should be able to get the job done for around $350-$400

[Guest]

Pick, I used a long drift punch and a short handled sledge to drive out the lower race. I did not have to cut it with a dremel. There are two 1/4" reliefs cut into the neck where a narrow but flat faced drift punch can fit. I bought a new punch from Home Depot because my old drift had rounded edges. A new one has a sharp edge which gives you a better surface to mate with the relief space. Keeping it lined up tightly with the drift end in the slot and the top of the punch pulled tight against the opposite side of the neck, drive the punch down hard with the hammer. It will slip off at times. Keep at it with a solid, firm swing, no light tapping. Once you see it drive down a bit, reverse yourself to the other slot and repeat. It will come out but it needs forceful hitting. Walk away if you get frustrated. Dont ask me why......

Also, look at the placement of the lower race in the neck before you remove it. The upper one sits flush while the lower one has about a 1/8th" reveal. I used the old race to drive the new one in until it seated properly with the reveal.

 

Now, what RedRider said about installing the races is what I did, using that threaded rod. I found some real thick washers which worked well. One other thing that I did was to place both races on the freezer overnight and removed them when I was at the point of installing them. Not sure how much it may have helped to shrink the races but they did go in fairly easy.

 

You can call me if you have any problems or need a pep talk through it. My # is in my profile.

Edited June 24, 2012 by Ruffy

[RedRider]

Pick, I used a long drift punch and a short handled sledge to drive out the lower race. There are two 1/4" reliefs cut into the neck where a narrow but flat faced drift punch can fit. I bought a new punch from Home Depot because my old drift had rounded edges. A new one has a sharp edge which gives you a better surface to mate with the relief space. Keeping it lined up tightly with the drift end in the slot and the top of the punch pulled tight against the opposite side of the neck, drive the punch down hard with the hammer. It will slip off at times. Keep at it with a solid, firm swing, no light tapping. Once you see it drive down a bit, reverse yourself to the other slot and repeat. It will come out but it needs forceful hitting. Walk away if you get frustrated. Dont ask me why......

Also, look at the placement of the lower race in the neck before you remove it. The upper one sits flush while the lower one has about a 1/8th" reveal. I used the old race to drive the new one in until it seated properly with the reveal.

 

Now, what RedRider said about installing the races is what I did, using that threaded rod. I found some real thick washers which worked well. One other thing that I did was to place both races on the freezer overnight and removed them when I was at the point of installing them. Not sure how much it may have helped to shrink the races but they did go in fairly easy.

 

You can call me if you have any problems or need a pep talk through it. My # is in my profile.

 

Forgot about putting the cups in the freezer. That helps too.

 

RR

[allwx]

I've done this job on my late, great Road Star, which is probably an identical front end to the Venture, minus faring. Remember faring has to be completely removed to do this job. Forks must be removed. The steering stem has to come completely out, and the bearings and races knocked out. Personally I think the $700 estimate is pretty close to what the labor and parts would be. I can't image ME doing it for very much less, and I'm not a pro mechanic.

 

However, this is do-able in your garage. If you've got a good lift and common tools, you can do it. As was noted you will have to cut into the lower race to get it free. You just need to cut a slot into one side of it so you can spread it enough to get it off the shaft. The top race knocks right out with a long drift from below.

 

Take your time, allow at least a couple of days, and go slow. You'll probably find a few other things in the area behind the faring that need attention, as long as you've got it apart, now is a good time to do those other things, things the mechs at the dealer will not do without charging for it.

[Trader]

Just be real careful when you cut out the lower race that you don't go too deep and cut into the neck itself!

It's hard to tell what's what in there!

 

Don't ask how I know!

[Eck]

Hey Pick, it has been a long time my friend.. Thought you feel off the edge of the world over there.

 

If I was able to help you I would, but I just cant right now. I have never changed the bearings in the neck, but I would be able to provide lots of advise..ha..

 

I have changed bearings in a Honda...and they are all the same basically. Removing the inner fairing is a PITButt..

I donty think you have to remove the inner fairing all the way off but could be wrong..but you do have to be able to move it for access though.

[Ozlander]

My advice is to install a grease zerk in the steering head so you can grease the bearings from time to time and keep the water out. Riding in the rain is what washes the grease out and causes the bearings to go bad.

[allwx]

My advice is to install a grease zerk in the steering head so you can grease the bearings from time to time and keep the water out. Riding in the rain is what washes the grease out and causes the bearings to go bad.

 

I don't think this is possible with the steering head bearings. It would be a pretty hairy project. And you'd still have to remove the faring, most likely, to access the zerk fittings.

[allwx]

Just be real careful when you cut out the lower race that you don't go too deep and cut into the neck itself!

It's hard to tell what's what in there!

 

Don't ask how I know!

 

By "neck" you must mean the steering shaft. You'd be working on the steering shaft on the bench, as it would be out of the bike. No chance to cut the neck of the frame.

 

If you nick the steering shaft a bit, no harm done. How I did it was to put the shaft/triple clamp assy into a vise. Took a dremel with a cutting wheel on it and started in on the race. I cut as far thru the race as I thought I could get away with without harming the shaft, but again, the shaft itself is just a pipe. A few nicks won't hurt it a bit, so there's no need to worry excessively about that. Then, I took a hammer and chisel and cut the rest of it. Once you get the race cut thru enough, the chisel will make short work of the rest of it. The race will spread enough to make it pop right off. Then, I used the old race to drive the new one into place. Again this was on a Roadstar, but I'm pretty sure the front end is identical to the Venture.

[Trader]

By "neck" you must mean the steering shaft.

 

I meant the tube or frame the triple tree fits into. I've always known it as the neck.

So certainly can't work on that on the bench!

It was hard to see what was frame and what was bearing race and I ended up cutting too deep!

[allwx]

I meant the tube or frame the triple tree fits into. I've always known it as the neck.

So certainly can't work on that on the bench!

It was hard to see what was frame and what was bearing race and I ended up cutting too deep!

 

I'm trying to picture removing the bottom steering bearing without removing the steering stem from the frame.

 

How'd you do that?

[Trader]

I DID remove the triple tree....the top half of the bottom bearing was jammed in the steering tube, frame, neck whatever you want to call it.

I couldn't get an edge on it to hammer it out as it seemed to be designed to nicely fit into a nook in the neck.

 

I had to cut it out.

 

Now don't try to tell me there is no nook in the neck!

I don't speak Eskimo!

[allwx]

I DID remove the triple tree....the top half of the bottom bearing was jammed in the steering tube, frame, neck whatever you want to call it.

I couldn't get an edge on it to hammer it out as it seemed to be designed to nicely fit into a nook in the neck.

 

I had to cut it out.

 

Now don't try to tell me there is no nook in the neck!

I don't speak Eskimo!

 

OK I think I've got it now. By "top half of the bottom bearing" you must mean the RACE. Both races are driven into the frame neck.

 

In an earlier description of work I did I referred to the bottom race having to be cut off the bottom of the steering stem. What I meant was, I cut the bearing itself off the stem. Once I demolished the bearing cage and got the rollers out of the way, the inner race of the bearing was exposed and able to be cut off with a dremel and chisel. This is done on the bench with the steering stem (or lower bracket, as the manual calls it) in a vise.

 

The races, top and bottom, should be able to be tapped out of the frame neck with a drift. Yours evidently got stuck in there. I can see why you would be afraid of cutting into the race seat. Fortunately, when I did this job on my Roadie I do not recall having any trouble with the neck races.