Charging system craps out an hour in.

[etcswjoe]

Headed out bright and early this morning heading to Newport News with a planned stop to see Earl in Greenville NC. Stopped about an hour out to top off and get some breakfast and the bike would not crank. I should have known something was up when the radio went out but I thought it was the connections inside the fairing so I paid no attention to it. Thought maybe it was the just the battery but after push starting it the neutral light did not brighten up any when I reved it. Made it to within 30 mins of home before it just gave up, had my wife bring me a battery and was able to get home. Once home I checked the voltage and 12.07 VDC not matter if it was reved or not. Since I was already 3 hours behind I transferred all my stuff to the car and off I went will troubleshoot when I get home.

 

I guess I will start with the rectifier and hope that fixes it I really don't want to buy a stator.

[Owen]

First thing to check is the connector from the r/r. They tend to get hot, corrode, get hotter, and quit conducting. Some folks cut it out and solder the connections.

[etcswjoe]

Had a good visit with Earl on the way back from Newport News even if I was in the car.

 

Got home and took the connecter off the R/R and a bunch of sand came out of the connector. I measured the stator at the R/R connecter and it read good. I then put it back together and I am charging now at 13.89 VDC +.3 VDC. Not sure if I want to trust it, even if I am getting good readings.

 

I really want to thank

Steel Horse Cowboy, Owen and Earl for the assistance.

 

I guess all I can do now is keep an eye on it tot see if it keeps working or not.

[Owen]

Mine only failed once in 55k miles. I ran a lot of high power accessories. When mine failed, I cleaned the pins good and put some dielectric grease on them and never had another problem. Glad you found your problem.

[Brake Pad]

How did you go about getting that off the bike? do you have to remove the front lower, or can you just pull the plug in off, from the top?

Next question, when I have that in Hand, with an OMS meter, How do I check to make sure its working?

I'm picking up the new battery Saturday morning.

 

In South Florida I ride in VERY DEEP water ( more like flash flooding)

[etcswjoe]

How did you go about getting that off the bike? do you have to remove the front lower, or can you just pull the plug in off, from the top?

Next question, when I have that in Hand, with an OMS meter, How do I check to make sure its working?

I'm picking up the new battery Saturday morning.

 

In South Florida I ride in VERY DEEP water ( more like flash flooding)

 

 

First check to make sure it is charging or not, if the reading at your battery is the same with the bike off as it is on you are not charging at all, if it is above 14.5 your regulator is probably bad.

 

You can get the R/R off without taking the lowers off but it is much easier if you do, just remove the 2 10mm headed bolts. Once I had the R/R in hand squeeze on the back of the connecter and pull. I have seen some pics where the connecter was obviously bad.

 

the connecter has six positions however only 5 have conductors, if you hold it so the side with two conductors that is your battery - on the left and + on the right and the bottom ones are your stator windings.

 

Set your meter to the lowest resistance scale and measure between pins 1&2, then pins 1&3, and finally between pins 2&3. All readings should be approximately .3 ohms. Make sure you correct for lead resistance. Next, set the meter to a resistance setting greater than 100 ohms. Connect one lead to ground and use the other lead to test each stator terminal for a short to ground. All should read open.

 

Check the output of the stator, set your meter to read AC voltage on a scale greater than 100 volts. Start the engine and read each pair of terminals in the same order as in the resistance check, 1&2, 1&3 and 2&3. At normal idle speed, voltage should be around 20~25 volts AC on each pair. Rev engine to 4000 RPM and read voltage on each pair again. Voltage @ 4000 RPM should be around 100~110 volts AC. All pairs should read equal voltages.