kwisor Posted June 15, 2012 #1 Posted June 15, 2012 well it has been a while since i could look at bike i ck the compression today 140 in all but rt rear it has 130 i am getting fire to plug i have cleaned the carb jest 4 or five itmes so i have a valve problem? bumble bee 1999 rsv
Scooter Bob Posted June 15, 2012 #2 Posted June 15, 2012 I would think 130 psi should fire. Is that plug wet with fuel??:confused: It should be, if it's getting fuel but not firing.
kwisor Posted June 15, 2012 Author #3 Posted June 15, 2012 hello i did not notice if it did or not i was cking for spark that i have, compression and i have cleaned all the jets i am at a loss as to what to ck next so 130 in rt rear the rest 140 is ok? bumblde bee
Scooter Bob Posted June 15, 2012 #4 Posted June 15, 2012 Since you messed with jets, could you have possibly turned the 3 to 4 sync screw in such a way that that throttle is not opening near as much as the others. Might explain not firing, and may result in lower compression due to less air entering to compress. Reading is within 10%, so I think it should be ok.
kwisor Posted June 15, 2012 Author #5 Posted June 15, 2012 the sync screw is that the pilot screw if so i can close and open it and no change in cycl bumble bee
pickinfred Posted June 15, 2012 #6 Posted June 15, 2012 The spark plug cap was my problem when I had a wet plug on #3 (dead cylinder). Took apart the plug cap and found the copper/brass washer to be burnt and corroded......cleaned and applied dielectric grease and problem was solved. May want to read..... http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41216&highlight=coil I hope this helps...
Scooter Bob Posted June 15, 2012 #7 Posted June 15, 2012 the sync screw is that the pilot screw if so i can close and open it and no change in cycl bumble bee No, I'm wondering about the screws you turn to sync the 4 throttles when doing a carb sync. The procedure is to insure all throttle plates are openining "in sync". The 3 to 4 sync screw is at a 45 degree up angle between the 3 and 4 carbs.
kwisor Posted June 15, 2012 Author #8 Posted June 15, 2012 (edited) yes the sync screws are the ones i turned in.in rt rear and no change in the eng i can close it all the way and no change but other three eng changes i read the thread on the spark plug caps and i have swoped the coil from rt rear to to left rear and rt rear still not firing. i have spark at the plug .i have pulled it watched it fire bumble bee Edited June 15, 2012 by kwisor
Venturous Randy Posted June 15, 2012 #9 Posted June 15, 2012 I suspect you are adjusting the air/fuel mixture screws, not the screws used for syncing the carbs. Not sure what a coil cap is but Fred was referring to the cap that goes on to the spark plug. RandyA
kwisor Posted June 15, 2012 Author #10 Posted June 15, 2012 (edited) i do not know what the screws for sync the carbs look like i am adj the air mix screw the one with the cross on the head at a angle from oppisit side of bike it is the spake plug cap not coil bumble bee Edited June 16, 2012 by kwisor
GeorgeS Posted June 16, 2012 #11 Posted June 16, 2012 Pull up the maintenance manuel, and see page showing carb linkage Sync Screws . ( 3 each ) Larger Straight slot heads, One on left side, and two on right side. Idle adjust screws, ( 4 each ) Bottom of Diaphram cover on each carb. Correct setting is about 1 1/2 to 2 turns open. Usually they never need to be messed with !! ------------ If you have been turning the " SYNC SCREWS " without, useing a set of Vaccume Test Gauges, as PER, the MAINENANCE MANUEL , proceedure, then, your linkage is REALLY Screwed up !! As a general rule of thumb, If a 1st GEN, has the throttle linkage " Properly Synced " then, you would NEVER rotate any of the three SYNC Screws, more the Plus or Minus, about 5 to 10 degrees of rotation !!! IF you been rotating those screws, its " Way Out of Wack !!! " :no-no-no:
kwisor Posted June 16, 2012 Author #12 Posted June 16, 2012 i have not turned the sync screws only the pilot screws i looked in the manual could not find the sync screws but i have not turned the 3 large screwss bumble bee
Uturn Posted June 16, 2012 #13 Posted June 16, 2012 Had the same (?) problem and Muffinman fixed mine,,,it was a bad coil. Just a thought/ Good luck. MIKE BAILEY aka Uturn
kwisor Posted June 16, 2012 Author #14 Posted June 16, 2012 i swaped the coil from rt rear to left rear no change if a bad coil i would think that the lt rear now would not fire but it is still the rt rear bumble bee
kwisor Posted June 18, 2012 Author #15 Posted June 18, 2012 i ordered coils from pinwill put them on the rear cycl still no change i am at a loss i guss a mach is next bumble bee
XV1100SE Posted June 18, 2012 #16 Posted June 18, 2012 ....As a general rule of thumb, If a 1st GEN, has the throttle linkage " Properly Synced " then, you would NEVER rotate any of the three SYNC Screws, more the Plus or Minus, about 5 to 10 degrees of rotation !!! IF you been rotating those screws, its " Way Out of Wack !!! " To clarify.... it's a '99 so 2nd Gen.
Venturous Randy Posted June 18, 2012 #17 Posted June 18, 2012 Unscrew the spark plug cap off the wire and swap it with another one and see if it still stays the same cylinder. RandyA
GeorgeS Posted June 18, 2012 #18 Posted June 18, 2012 To clarify.... it's a '99 so 2nd Gen. 2nd Gen, Sync Screws, work the same as 1st gen. ( just different size screws ) If one carb, Sync is far enough out of adjustment, that can keep that cylinder from fireing.
Marcarl Posted June 18, 2012 #19 Posted June 18, 2012 i do not know what the screws for sync the carbs look like i am adj the air mix screw the one with the cross on the head at a angle from oppisit side bumble bee Seems to me that maybe you have been messing with the sync screws. On the 2nd gen the sync screws are reachable from the right side only, and the one for 1 and 2 cylinder you have to get from the right side. On the 1st gen, they are available on their own respective sides. So if you had to go to the opposite side to adjust, then I would kind of think that you were playing with the sync screws. The mixture screws come with a protective cap installed over them, to keep folks from adjusting them, so, unless you or somebody else has removed those caps, you can't be adjusting the mixture screws, so that leaves only the sync screws to play with,,,, and if you have been playing with them and have no gauge, then it's time to find a gauge. You CANNOT sync the carbs without a gauge,,, just can't be done.
pickinfred Posted June 18, 2012 #20 Posted June 18, 2012 I may have overlooked the post..... but I did not read that the spark plug is wet when removed.... but if it is... I would install a new spark plug and if the new plug doesn't do the fix then I would change the spark plug cap as Randy suggested. If the spark plug is dry when removed I would lightly mist WD-40 in the sync port of the dead cylinder while the engine is running and listen for the engine to speed up which would lead me to recheck that carb. Not knowing what work was done on the carbs......would it be possible there was a paper towel or something left on the carb during reassembly...if so that would make the compression low and the cylinder dead. I cannot imagine the sync being so far out that a cylinder with 130 lbs. of compression that is getting fire and gas....would seem dead when you rev the engine......just my thoughts........be sure to post the fix when it is found.
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