Coolant Leak

[KIC]

So, it looks like there is a very slight seeping leak around the top of the thermostat housing.

 

But, the biggest leak that showed up is where the tube that comes between the "valve" and goes into the side of the thermostat housing. This seems to be a pretty good leak that just started after changing the coolant.

 

Is there a "kit" that has all the o-rings and gaskets for the thermostat housing, or do I need to purchase each one separately ?

 

Any input from others that have done this, what looks like a real pain in the @$$ job ?

[Flyinfool]

I did not find a kit, I had to get all separate parts.

 

As long as your are in that far...........

[KIC]

I did not find a kit, I had to get all separate parts.

 

As long as your are in that far...........

 

DON'T SAY IT !!!!!!

[Flyinfool]

DON'T SAY IT !!!!!!

 

Too late, check your other radiator post.......

[KIC]

Too late, check your other radiator post.......

 

Just read it. Uhgg... you know, if I had just drained the coolant and refilled things probablly would have been alright...but NOOooooo I had to turn the valve, flush and reflush and do everything "right" ... now I have two leaks I didn't have before the flush...

 

Now.. if I do all the o-rings..and the starter upgrade.. I can only imagine what the other ....while you are that far........ will be ...

[KIC]

So ...these o-rings are all Stealer ordered ? Not match em at Ace Hdwr ?

 

 

I have the diagram and numbers for those...but I can not find in the manual the part (o-ring?) for the tube going into the front of the thermostat from the valve.

[twigg]

So ...these o-rings are all Stealer ordered ? Not match em at Ace Hdwr ?

 

 

I have the diagram and numbers for those...but I can not find in the manual the part (o-ring?) for the tube going into the front of the thermostat from the valve.

 

The o-ring is about 2 to 3 bucks ... The shipping kills you.

 

If you can take the pipe to a dealer and find a matching metric o-ring you'll save a fortune.

 

Oh, and you did have to move the valve, AND dismantle the parts because there is no way to effectively clean it otherwise.

 

Yeah, it's a pain, but do it right or you could easily overheat the engine and that is something you want to avoid.

[Flyinfool]

Most hardware stores do not have metric o-rings. You can get pretty close with SAE rings but do you feel lucky?

 

From what I see on the "Radiator Hose" parts diagram it is item 25 p/n 93210-14104-00.

[Flyinfool]

Now.. if I do all the o-rings..and the starter upgrade.. I can only imagine what the other ....while you are that far........ will be ...

 

Well now that you mention it..............

[Keemez]

I'll chime in on the generic oring idea. It doesn't work very good. My (VR) elbow has white RTV piled up all around both ends trying to contain the seepage that I could not get under control. And even after "rebuilding" the pump and replacing all orings, etc... I still get that dreaded coolant drip at completely random times.

[KIC]

Most hardware stores do not have metric o-rings. You can get pretty close with SAE rings but do you feel lucky?

 

From what I see on the "Radiator Hose" parts diagram it is item 25 p/n 93210-14104-00.

 

Can you post the diagram you are looking at ? I have looked at my hard copy manual and the PDF copy and can't see it.

 

Never mind.. I found the diagram you were looking at on that site. Thanks !

[skydoc_17]

Hey KIC,

Here's the scoop on the Thermostat Housing Rebuild. The body of the Thermostat Housing is metal, BUT the top cover is plastic. Due to the amount of heat that this unit sees, the plastic housing warps. If you are going to do the starter upgrade, and replace the O'Rings, then consider replacing the Housing Top with a new one. I think it is $15.00+/- a few. You will be glad you did. Also check the "water pump elbow" for a nick that the crash bar puts in the elbow if your bike has ever been over on that side. I have seen quite a few elbows "blow out" in the area where the crash bar has nicked the elbow. Just an FYI.

Earl

[KIC]

Thanks for the advice Earl,

 

I ordered two sets of all the o-rings needed. I'll get the cap too. Figured might as well get them for the 87 too. I hope Boats.net is a good place to order them from.

[Flyinfool]

:sign yeah that:

If the bike goes down on the right side the crash bar mounts will deflect far enough to nick that plastic elbow and as soon as the weight is off the bar it springs back to where it belongs so you have no clue that it was being bad.

 

I don't know if boats .net is a good place to order from, I just use their diagrams and then order from Earl......

[twigg]

Thanks for the advice Earl,

 

I ordered two sets of all the o-rings needed. I'll get the cap too. Figured might as well get them for the 87 too. I hope Boats.net is a good place to order them from.

 

Boats.net is as good a place as any.

 

Try ronayers.com too as they often have slightly lower prices.

[Keemez]

I've made posts to this effect before but since the discussion is relevant I'll reiterate:

 

My local stealership has been very cooperative about price-matching (or adjusting to some degree) with anything I take into them from boats.net- and they never charge me for shipping when they have to order anything in from a warehouse. If you've got a good relationship with the parts folks at your nearest dealer it's worth asking them about. I'm sure I've saved hundreds in parts costs over the years as a result.

[KIC]

 

I don't know if boats .net is a good place to order from, I just use their diagrams and then order from Earl......

 

I didn't know I could order these from Earl. Guess next time I'll ask him first.

 

Sorry Earl !

 

And our local Stealership is a RideNow Dealership, which has a worst reputation than a bleeding hemorrhoid.

 

I don't buy from them unless it is an absolute, positively, can't do anything else situation. And..that is rare to none.

Edited June 11, 2012 by KIC

[mbrood]

Just like Chinese food... get two 22s (93210-27778-00 ) and one 29 (93210-43713-00)... should put you in good form (under waterpump in Yamaha's fische...).

 

http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/waterpump.gif

[twigg]

He also needs the smaller ring that seals the metal pipe in the lower half of the thermostat housing.

 

As me what happens if you forget that one

[KIC]

Thanks..got those ordered.

 

 

Just like Chinese food... get two 22s (93210-27778-00 ) and one 29 (93210-43713-00)... should put you in good form (under waterpump in Yamaha's fische...).

 

http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/waterpump.gif

[KIC]

He also needs the smaller ring that seals the metal pipe in the lower half of the thermostat housing.

 

As me what happens if you forget that one

 

 

Which one are you talking about ? What number ?

[twigg]

Which one are you talking about ? What number ?

 

There is a small o-ring that seals the right-angle end of the metal drain valve assembly into the lower part of the thermostat housing.

 

I can't find it listed separately on the fiche, which probably means it is only sold as part of the drain valve sub-assembly.

 

So make sure you didn't lose the one you have, and if it needs replacing you will need to measure carefully and go find a metric replacement online.

 

It will only need to be resistant to anti-freeze with the appropriate temp rating (maybe 300F).

[Flyinfool]

There is a small o-ring that seals the right-angle end of the metal drain valve assembly into the lower part of the thermostat housing.

 

I can't find it listed separately on the fiche, which probably means it is only sold as part of the drain valve sub-assembly.

 

 

Back from post #8

 

Most hardware stores do not have metric o-rings. You can get pretty close with SAE rings but do you feel lucky?

 

From what I see on the "Radiator Hose" parts diagram it is item 25 p/n 93210-14104-00.

 

http://www.boats.net/images/diagrams/yamaha/02/0359/0006.png

 

Nobody ever listens to me..

[twigg]

Back from post #8

 

 

http://www.boats.net/images/diagrams/yamaha/02/0359/0006.png

 

 

Nobody ever listens to me..

 

That's it Jeff.

 

It wasn't on the diagram I was looking at.

[frankd]

When you put the new thermostat cover on, make sure the bolts pull it into the housing properly. I had a problem with my new cover, it bowed and really didn't move the O ring into the housing properly, and this made it leak. I ended up making custon washers that ended up being shaped like the area around the bolt holes that spread the force of the bolt out better. Now it's dry under my 89. Tomorrow I'll try and find the pictures to show this better.