intercom help please!!!!!!!!!!1

[msshearin]

the bolts on mine are standard hex bolts.........they don't have a allen head guys,

[dacheedah]

those round black connectors are where your audio passes through. Use the grease around the connectors but not on the pins as it is non conductive. Use spray contact cleaner to protect those pins. Also look to see if they used dis-similar metals on each end of those connectors. they should be the same material, if one is gold and one is silver you will have galvanic corrosion.

 

Also someone makes a bracket that holds the lights out so they do not need to be removed when splitting the fairing.

[djh3]

Mine have about 3/4" inch round spacer behinde them and I still have to take the bolts out. Maybe it should have a thicker spacer. Maybe its 1/2" I dunno, I just know its got to come off to split fairing. Wow if its got hex heads thats got to be a PIA. I dont know as I could get a wrench anywhere near them and I dont think anything bigger than a 1/4" drive is going to fit under the fairing in that spot.

[msshearin]

Mine have about 3/4" inch round spacer behinde them and I still have to take the bolts out. Maybe it should have a thicker spacer. Maybe its 1/2" I dunno, I just know its got to come off to split fairing. Wow if its got hex heads thats got to be a PIA. I dont know as I could get a wrench anywhere near them and I dont think anything bigger than a 1/4" drive is going to fit under the fairing in that spot.

 

I have to angle a 12mm socket on an extention and just prey I don't strip the head when it keeps slipping off

[msshearin]

those round black connectors are where your audio passes through. Use the grease around the connectors but not on the pins as it is non conductive. Use spray contact cleaner to protect those pins. Also look to see if they used dis-similar metals on each end of those connectors. they should be the same material, if one is gold and one is silver you will have galvanic corrosion.

 

Also someone makes a bracket that holds the lights out so they do not need to be removed when splitting the fairing.

can you advise the company?

[dacheedah]

It was a member on another site who they say dropped off and changed his e-mail. Maybe someone here could fab some up, here is the post on them though http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002002&id=248

[Kirby]

Mine have about 3/4" inch round spacer behinde them and I still have to take the bolts out. Maybe it should have a thicker spacer. Maybe its 1/2" I dunno, I just know its got to come off to split fairing. Wow if its got hex heads thats got to be a PIA. I dont know as I could get a wrench anywhere near them and I dont think anything bigger than a 1/4" drive is going to fit under the fairing in that spot.

 

The problem I had with the stock setup was you have to hold everything in place while you try to get the bolts in at an angle. So I replaced my bolts with studs into the place where the bolts went. This way I can hang the light bar onto the studs and this frees up both hands while I get a nut and washer started. It's a little tough at first, but it's a lot easier than the stock setup. I just use an open end wrench to snug them up. I didn't like the way the lights stuck way out ahead of the headlight is the reason I didn't use the spacers.

[msshearin]

The problem I had with the stock setup was you have to hold everything in place while you try to get the bolts in at an angle. So I replaced my bolts with studs into the place where the bolts went. This way I can hang the light bar onto the studs and this frees up both hands while I get a nut and washer started. It's a little tough at first, but it's a lot easier than the stock setup. I just use an open end wrench to snug them up. I didn't like the way the lights stuck way out ahead of the headlight is the reason I didn't use the spacers.

 

Great idea but if I leave the spacers off the back of the lights are hitting the front of the faring......

[Kirby]

I can't remember right off hand but can't you adjust the light buckets to get them off the fairing? I've probably got a half inch or better there.

[djh3]

You know when I posted about how my bolts were I was thinking about a guy could use studs. So how much room do you need? Would a couple of washers behind the lights give you what your looking for? What about a piece of alum tubing that would go over the bolts and just cut it off as thick as you would like. And then if they are to far out dont I remember something about the lowers flexing and breaking or something.

[wes0778]

There is a 5-pin DIN connector under the passenger seat. Check it. My wife started complaining that one side of her head set was not working then the intercom quit. I ended up having to replace the female part of that plug. I could not find a female connector locally so ended up buying a MIDI extension cable from Radio Shack. It had male plugs on both ends so I had to get a connector (gender changer) to go with it. I cut the cable and soldered and shrink wrapped the connections. BTW it was a mind bender hooking it up, cause the Yamaha wire colors don't match up with the Rat Shack cable.

[Kirby]

You know when I posted about how my bolts were I was thinking about a guy could use studs. So how much room do you need? Would a couple of washers behind the lights give you what your looking for? What about a piece of alum tubing that would go over the bolts and just cut it off as thick as you would like. And then if they are to far out dont I remember something about the lowers flexing and breaking or something.

 

Dion, I didn't have to use anything to space the lights out from the fairing. I think you can adjust the light buckets so they don't hit the fairing.

[Kirby]

Sorry for hijacking the thread. Now back to your regularly scheduled program.

[msshearin]

Dion, I didn't have to use anything to space the lights out from the fairing. I think you can adjust the light buckets so they don't hit the fairing.

 

mine are not made like that. There is no front to back adjustment just swivel from side to side

[Eck]

On the front side of the rear fender, yet behind the lower steel bracket of your back rest is a wire harness. This wire harness gets pinched (by you) when leaning back on the back rest.

I had the same problem with my intercom on my 05 RSV..my back rest lower bracket pinched the wires in that harness and caused a very loud squeeling in my intercom, then the intercom quit. I had to carefully cut the outer wire harness covering and solder a couple smashed broken wires, then tape it back up to keep moisture and the elements out.

I then found a small piece of truck tire laying on the side of the highway, and I placed it (wedged it) between the back rest steel bracket and that wire harness. The thickeness of the truck tire kept the steel bracket from ever touching the wire harness again, and I never once had another issue with my intercom..

Hope you find this info useful and solves your problem.

 

PS: By the looks of your back rest yours is the same type as mine was..!

[djh3]

ECK thanks for the info friend. I have a Utopia driver backrest and will take a look see to make sure my wires a routed correctly.

 

Kirby- Like I said mine has what looks like steel tubing maybe 1/2" thick behind the flat piece of steel, yet its close quarters between the fairing and the back of the light housing. I supose a fellow could "tweak" it so you had additional room.

 

The "pinch" area makes good sense with the discription of trouble. I'd think an old piece of fuel line or something to shroud the wires would work also.

[msshearin]

OK guys left home yesterday headed to Emerald Isle NC. Everything going great,talking to wifey on back through intercom then about an hour into the trip, loud pop through helmet speakers and NO INTERCOM. Played with wires buttons etc and nothing. Stopped for gas,cranked the girl back up and BINGO intercom working again! Happy happy happy!!!!!!!For about 10 minutes and POP......SILENCE!!!!!!!!!!!The rest of the trip every now and then INTERCOM for 10 to 15 seconds....no intercom...grrrrrrrrrr.Cranked her up for return trip today INTERCOM WORKING,20 MINS......no intercom for rest of trip home even after restarting her.Almost as if working until gets hot ?????????????Any ideas......got to have my intercom guys can't talk dirty to wifey without it......HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

UPDATE PLEASE READ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok checked everything,greased everything I can find to grease........HERES THE REST OF THE STORY. PLUGGED DRIVERS HELMET IN,TURNED KEY TO ACCESSORY,INTERCOM WORKING FINE.HAD PLUGGED INTO TENDER SO BATTERY WOULD NOT DIE AND LEFT IT JUST SITTING THERE WITH INTERCOM ON.CAME BACK 30 MINS LATER,STILL WORKING CAME BACK IN 1 HOUR (NOT WORKING)GRRRRRRRRRR.TURN KEY OFF FOR ABOUT A MIN TURNED BACK ON WORKING AGAIN.30 MINS LATER NOT WORKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!IS THERE SOMETHING IN THE SYSTEM THAT COULD HEAT UP AND KILL THE INTERCOM LIKE A BREAKER OR SOMETHING???????????????????????

[spke]

UPDATE PLEASE READ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok checked everything,greased everything I can find to grease........HERES THE REST OF THE STORY. PLUGGED DRIVERS HELMET IN,TURNED KEY TO ACCESSORY,INTERCOM WORKING FINE.HAD PLUGGED INTO TENDER SO BATTERY WOULD NOT DIE AND LEFT IT JUST SITTING THERE WITH INTERCOM ON.CAME BACK 30 MINS LATER,STILL WORKING CAME BACK IN 1 HOUR (NOT WORKING)GRRRRRRRRRR.TURN KEY OFF FOR ABOUT A MIN TURNED BACK ON WORKING AGAIN.30 MINS LATER NOT WORKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!IS THERE SOMETHING IN THE SYSTEM THAT COULD HEAT UP AND KILL THE INTERCOM LIKE A BREAKER OR SOMETHING???????????????????????

 

Seems like you've determined it's not a wiring issue. If it's the electronics (not sure where the intercom crcuitry resides), then it sure sounds like you've developed a heat sensitive circuit inside. From the days of old(electronics technician), the only way to find the exact component would be to take it apart and spray eachcomponent with freeze spray. Usually it will start working once you hit the right component. Then change the component. Might be better off finding a used one to swap and/or someone that services them. Intermittent heat issues can be VERY difficult to track down.

[Woody]

Don’t give up on the connectors behind the fairing to quick it took me three times to hit the right one. Clean and grease and then using some wire ties or zip ties on the connectors in a way as to pull them together. After I did that I have not had any more trouble (knock on wood). Put your helmet on and use the handle of a screw driver to tap on connections while listening for static in the helmet. good luck and patients are needed.