Electrical problem all of a sudden

[JohnT]

I did a search using the normal forum search and the google option to see if this is the "obligatory" re-solder but can't find it.

So I drive home with no issue, stop in to make the wife happy, and go to leave again. Turn on the key, hit the button and,,nothing. No dash display at first and no start. After checking all fuses and the level of battery charge I try again and now the display goes through it's checks, the radio comes on, but when I hit the button I hear a faint click, no more. As if the battery is dead actually. But it isn't. Volt meter says it isn't and my charger says it isn't.

What are the symptoms of the "re solder"

[bkuhr]

My first suggestion would be to actually disconnect the wire terminals from the battery, sand them and the battery posts shiny, and snuggly put all back together.

 

Even tight, clean looking connections can have corrosion that allow limited current to pass, but not enough to crank a starter. Very common problem.

[JohnT]

My first suggestion would be to actually disconnect the wire terminals from the battery, sand them and the battery posts shiny, and snuggly put all back together.

 

Even tight, clean looking connections can have corrosion that allow limited current to pass, but not enough to crank a starter. Very common problem.

 

First thing that I did. My Dad taught me that when I got my first car. (thanks Dad, miss you) I used emery paper to shine up the terminals and the connectors. No change.

 

In the haste to get to my supper I skimmed over a detail or 2. When I fist hit the starter the radio went off and the display went completely blank. I then cleaned the posts and connectors, checked the fuses and made sure that I had power to them and power to the "far' side of them. Did not seem to help. But the more I looked around there seemd to be improvment. The display was now lighting and going through the warning lights, the radio came on and the neutral light was visible. But when I thumb the button there is the faint clicking of a bad battery / bad connection and it all goes dead. The battery is only a year old and shows as being in good health according to my tester and my charger.

dumb@$$ question. Where's the starter? Maybe the connection on the starter end is loose or corroded.

I need a manual.

[dingy]

Starter is on front of motor towards left side sightly, up under front header pipes.

 

Also clean the ground to the block on the right front side where the negative cable is attached. Slightly forward of water pump. This is in addition to cleaning starter main wire. And check that 2 starter bolts are snug.

 

Starter is on right side center of attached picture.

 

Gary

[MiCarl]

If the problem were at the starter it wouldn't wipe out everything else. It's going to be near the battery.

 

Put your volt meter on the battery and hit the start button. If the voltage drops below 10 your problem is the battery. If it stays up you have a connection problem.

 

Mine's got so much extra stuff wired on at the battery I'm unsure where the (+) gets distributed to the accessory circuits. Somebody should know though. That distribution point is a likely suspect, as is where the (-) battery cable attaches to the frame/engine.

[bkuhr]

Mine's got so much extra stuff wired on at the battery I'm unsure where the (+) gets distributed to the accessory circuits. Somebody should know though. That distribution point is a likely suspect, as is where the (-) battery cable attaches to the frame/engine.

 

2 red wires directly on the battery. large one to starter relay, and smaller one to inline 40A main fuse-then everywhere.

 

although checking the frame ground and starter main connections as dingy said, there is also the starter relay. Attached to the left side of the battery box and tucked under left fairing. Follow large red wire from battery. You can jumper across both top screw terminals with a screwdriver and starter should crank. If the clicking heard is coming for this relay, then it needs replaced.

 

If battery connections are known good, the I would begin to suspect a worn starter.

 

Try jumper cables from car battery directly on starter wire bolt(plus) and starter casing(minus){car NOT running}

[Marcarl]

Also check the battery terminals that they are tight to the wires.

[Trader]

Here's the link to the service manuals from this site.

 

http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm

[JohnT]

Okey Dokey. This has been enlightening. Where to start?

Connections to and through the relay to the starter, check. Still nothing but dead battery stutter. And now my ($9 Harbor Freight) multi meter won't work and my Wal Mart trickle charger says charged not even hooked to the battery.

Back to the area of the battery and fuses. This is where it seemed to start anyhow. Check the wiring for the Previous Owner's headlight shut off switch and fog lamp switch. Fog lamps don't work anyway. (now I know why)

Prongs holding headlight fuse and accessory fuse break off in my hand from trying to take out the fuses. No wonder the accessory lug was intermittent on having power. Replace with inline fuse holders and proper amp fuses. Still no go. Time to go to square one. Out came P.O. installed switches.

Now all my stuff works. Horn, turn signals, radio. No start, just click. Hook up the headlight cut off switch. It has power in, out, and ground for the LED that lights the switch. Hook up the power pass through and still have dash, radio, signals, etc. Touch the switch ground to the battery ground and lose everything. Remove the switch, wire the head light, all looks good.

Jump the bike and it runs. Lights flicker at idle but are steady with revs. Volt meter on the dash says charging and increases with slight revs. Hit and hold the brake light and the the needle drops steadily.

The bad switch cost me this problem. And a meter, charger, and I hope just a battery.

I will buy a new meter today and jump start the bike. If the meter reads 13.5 or so my stator should be charging, right? What voltage should I see going to the battery?

[Flyinfool]

It should be 14.0, anything under 13.8 is getting to marginal, over 14.2 is getting excessive. The idle voltage does not matter much anything in the 13s is fine, it will be low, check the voltage at 2500 rpm or more.

 

There is no way a bad switch can burn out a volt meter. The switch should also not be able to damage a charger or battery.

Open up your meter, it has a fuse or 2 inside that may have blown.

[JohnT]

Seeing 13.4 to 13.6 volts at idle and as high as 14.2 or 14.3 volts at 4000 RPM. Is that too high?

Voltage drops to 11 or so if the brake light is held on.

Battery won't charge and it jump starts instantly just touching the cables to the post.

[frankd]

No John, that's fine. The Yamaha spec. is 14.5V plus or minus .5V----My 83 gets all the way up to 14.15 V, but my 89 goes to 14.5V. Both bikes have the OEM voltage regulator. Your stator and regulator are working normally.

 

When you jump started it, did you put the negative jumper cable on the negative battery terminal, or ground it to the bike's frame? If you connected it to the bike frame, try starting it again with it connected to the negative battery terminal. If it starts, your battery is probably shot. If it doesn't, the negative battery lead connection to the engine block (right side) is loose, oxidized, or corroded.

 

 

Frank D.

Edited June 9, 2012 by frankd

[JohnT]

All set and rode it tonight.

Removed the bad switches, installed 2 new fuse holders, and bought a new battery. And did I get a deal on a battery. An exide that is a perfect fit and has the opening for the probe for $67 plus tax. Thanks to my bud Rob at Advantage (NOT Advance) auto parts in town.

Trickle charged it till full and am riding again.

 

Oh, and I have a lead on a new job that will take me off Over The Road driving. No more being gone 3 and 4 days at a time. Would have had this fixed Monday night if I had a "normal" job.