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My New Thumb Swtich Mount.


GolfVenture

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Is it fair to say that these will only fit the 1st Gen?

 

I was told that all 1st Gen are the same but this is from A1bummer. So everyoner please check your choke switch.

 

DAMN! I took another look at the pic of the switch. My choke isn't in the same place as yours. Yours is on the bottom of the switch housing and slides left/right. Mine is between the housing and handle grip and slides up/down. So I guess it won't work for mine. I think my choke would hit the back of the buttons. Mine is and an 84. My 83 parts bike has the choke setup like yours. Well that sucks. lol

 

Thanks just the same man.

Bill

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Yup, here is a pic of my choke setup.

Bill

 

I was told that all 1st Gen are the same but this is from A1bummer. So everyoner please check your choke switch.

 

DAMN! I took another look at the pic of the switch. My choke isn't in the same place as yours. Yours is on the bottom of the switch housing and slides left/right. Mine is between the housing and handle grip and slides up/down. So I guess it won't work for mine. I think my choke would hit the back of the buttons. Mine is and an 84. My 83 parts bike has the choke setup like yours. Well that sucks. lol

 

Thanks just the same man.

Bill

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've received one comment that the switch mount has 2 issues.

 

1) The screw hold does not match up. I have an 89 and 91 VR, and the screws holes line up perfectly. His is an 86 VR. Are there any differences in the MKII Left switch housing? I was not aware of any.

 

2) The top switch hole is too close to the rubber hand grip. The buttons I used are from Radio Shack (see picture). The + & - terminals are flat so one can bend the terminals down. I wanted everything to fit tight and not extend out too far so not to snag or get caught on things. The switch plate survived the accident that I recently had. The VR fliped, rolled and slid for a long ways.

 

I used pretty thin wires from the switch to the relay. I shrinked wrap each wire individially and then shrinked wraped the two into one.

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Brian,

 

I finally had some time to check the mounting of the switch mount on 89 and 87. They both fit perfectly !:happy65: It is on ,y list to stop by Radio Shack today for the switches. One will be for my driving lights I am mounting and the other will be a momentary switch for my garage door opener modification that I am looking forward to completing.

 

Pictures below.

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Brian,

I just mounted the switch plate on my '90. There was interference between the HORN button and the switch plate. When one depresses the HORN button it remains depressed. I thought a little tweak would fix the interference, but the mounting tab broke off!

When the switch plate was mounted it seemed to sag a little downward on the left, causing the stuck HORN button (at the upper left corner of the HORN button).

It is a nice piece of machining, but unfortunately the tolerances are apparently a little too tight.

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Brian,

I just mounted the switch plate on my '90. There was interference between the HORN button and the switch plate. When one depresses the HORN button it remains depressed. I thought a little tweak would fix the interference, but the mounting tab broke off!

When the switch plate was mounted it seemed to sag a little downward on the left, causing the stuck HORN button (at the upper left corner of the HORN button).

It is a nice piece of machining, but unfortunately the tolerances are apparently a little too tight.

 

I have an extra one.

 

How about if I take a bit more off the top of the horn button and on the left of the horn button.

 

Can you give me the two measurement to take off.

 

Any other adjustments you can think off.

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I have an extra one.

 

How about if I take a bit more off the top of the horn button and on the left of the horn button.

 

Can you give me the two measurement to take off.

 

Any other adjustments you can think off.

 

I filed the HORN button opening larger and have sufficient clearance (holding the broken plate to the bike's switch body) now. It looks like if 1/32" more on the left side of the HORN opening and perhaps 1/64" more along the top will give good clearance. Note that there is PLENTY of clearance at the bottom of the HORN button opening. Also, the HORN button pivots from the right side. This means the HORN button clearance requirements increases as it is depressed, as it swings left. (But you probably knew that already).

Attached is a scan of the broken switch plate face showing the amount of material I removed to make it fit without interference with the HORN button. Approximately half of the chamfer along the left end of the opening was removed. Slightly less than that at the top.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

I found some "waterproof" switches for mounting onto Brian's switch plate. They are fairly low profile in back so there is no interference with the grip or handlebar switch assembly, though they do project from the face of Brian's switch plate ½" or so. The horn actuation requires a bit more deliberation. The switches are "push on-push off" with a tactile feedback "click".

 

Though advertised as waterproof, the back of the switch is not watertight in my estimation. But the rubber nipple over the actuating plunger appears to make the switch waterproof from that perspective.

 

BTW, I paid $7.50 with free shipping for the two switches. The seller is advertising $11.95 for the pair, but I submitted an offer for $7.52 and it was accepted. Try submitting a "best offer".

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-Waterproof-SPST-Pushbutton-On-Off-Switch-2-SET-/130694519333?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6e001a25

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