Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I bought that set. My problem seems that it looks like the PO tried before me and the insides are stripped. I haven't looked at my 89 yet, but with the way its running it will be next.

Posted

I tried the vice-grips that I have. I wish they had put those screws on the bottom instead of the top where there is much less room. The vice grips that I have are not small enough. So today a trip to the store is in line. I want to get those done this weekend if possible.

 

Thanks for the advice. :happy65:

Posted

Or you could use side cutters to get them out. Jaws of side cutter at top and bottom of screw, pinch down real hard to get some bite and then turn left. Trick taught to me by Muffinman.

Posted
Or you could use side cutters to get them out. Jaws of side cutter at top and bottom of screw, pinch down real hard to get some bite and then turn left. Trick taught to me by Muffinman.

 

 

YEA !!!! tried that and in 5 seconds and 2 tries, the first one broke loose !!! The first try I could hear the little snap of it breaking loose, the second bite was all turn !

 

:happy65::happy65::happy65::happy65:

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Hi guys,

 

I am helping a new member install diaphragms in his 86 tomorrow. I remember that some say that the hole in the slider should be at a certain position ( like the 5 o'clock). Does it really matter and if so, where should it be ? :confused24:

Posted
Hi guys,

 

I am helping a new member install diaphragms in his 86 tomorrow. I remember that some say that the hole in the slider should be at a certain position ( like the 5 o'clock). Does it really matter and if so, where should it be ? :confused24:

 

It matters. The vacuum port (hole) should be at about 6 o'clock. If your new diaphragms do not have the indexing ear, then it is easy; insert the assembled slide and diaphragm and turn until the hole is at 6 o'clock. If the new diaphragm has the indexing ear, then you will have to be careful when installing the diaphragm onto the slide and make sure of the correct alignment.

HOLE2-465x343.jpg

Posted (edited)

For small holes one can use plastidip to reseal the rubber, dabbing it on with a toothpick.

Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

Edited by Peder_y2k
syntax
Posted

Another method to remove phillips (or other security type) screws that have been wallowed out is to use a dremel tool with thin cut-off blade to cut a groove across top of screw that fits a flat blade screwdriver. This usually allows enough torque to break it loose. Be sure to replace screws!

Posted
It matters. The vacuum port (hole) should be at about 6 o'clock. If your new diaphragms do not have the indexing ear, then it is easy; insert the assembled slide and diaphragm and turn until the hole is at 6 o'clock. If the new diaphragm has the indexing ear, then you will have to be careful when installing the diaphragm onto the slide and make sure of the correct alignment.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]97275[/ATTACH]

Did NOT know this, something else to check/fix when I get home Monday. Or do the 83s have that hole? I see the part #s change from 85 to 86.

Posted

Mine all looked OK but 1 was all tore up, and I wondered why it ran like crap? Well only doing 1 I can see how not to do it, the new one slides like silk, no sticking, uneven rough movement, now the 3 "OK" ones that seemed to work all right I know are going to be a problem, lesson learned I'll probably be replacing the other 3 soon. I indexed the hole in the slider to go on the intake side straight down the engine's intake, that's the way the other's where, but this carb was butchered up good so I don't really have faith in the alignment.

Posted
Or do the 83s have that hole? I see the part #s change from 85 to 86.

 

Yes, the 1983 have the vacuum port in the slide. In fact, ALL Constant Velocity carburetors have the vacuum port. A CV carb cannot work without this port.

Posted
It matters. The vacuum port (hole) should be at about 6 o'clock. If your new diaphragms do not have the indexing ear, then it is easy; insert the assembled slide and diaphragm and turn until the hole is at 6 o'clock. If the new diaphragm has the indexing ear, then you will have to be careful when installing the diaphragm onto the slide and make sure of the correct alignment.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]97275[/ATTACH]

 

What happens or fails to happen if they aren't aligned?

I don't think I paid any attention to those when I put in new diaphragms but I'll bet it would be a big PITA to redo now.

It runs well but I could handle it if it ran even better.

Posted
What happens or fails to happen if they aren't aligned?

I don't think I paid any attention to those when I put in new diaphragms but I'll bet it would be a big PITA to redo now.

It runs well but I could handle it if it ran even better.

 

Just take the covers off and shine a light in there, the slide can be moved without removing the rubber diaphragm. Just hold the rubber and spin the hole in place

Posted
Just take the covers off and shine a light in there, the slide can be moved without removing the rubber diaphragm. Just hold the rubber and spin the hole in place

 

Not always. Some aftermarket diaphragms are super glued to the slide, in accordance with the suppliers instructions. Others diaphragms are too tightly fitting to the slide to rotate the slide within the diaphragm without causing damage to the diaphragm.

Posted
What happens or fails to happen if they aren't aligned?

 

SO what happens if the hole is off?

 

I am not positive on the physics of the 'lift' hole or vacuum port, but it appears if this hole is upstream of the needle, that the slide will be sluggish in raising. All I DO know, is that every manufacturer says the hole should be oriented toward the engine side/butterfly. Including Yamaha.

Posted

I did my second set of 4 Diaphragms this weekend for my other 1986 Royale.....with practice I started to get pretty good at it. I was scared stiff doing my first one, but by the 8th slide I had it down to a science. Words of wisdom to other newbies out there; take your time, be careful and you can get a new Diaphragm installed in the right position, with no wrinkles, and no lube, grinding, pounding, or glueing required compared to the many "advisors" and "Procedures" you see on Youtube.

 

I used the super secret Yamaha tool...the round part of a standard paperclip..with great efficiency to push the new diaphragm in-between the two plastic washers on the slide with no risk of damage. I think the Yamaha tool part number is YBK-PAPER-CLIP-345-DIA also available at your local stationary store in a pack of 100. :hihi::hihi::hihi:

Posted

I used 2 credit cards. Slip it on from the needle end, carefully slide part of it between the two using one to separate the two rings and the other card to push it down in-between the rings. If you line it up with the tab and the "hole" it will go in-between and you can "carefully" massage the diaphragm down in and work the alignment.

 

Just don't force or use too much pressure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...