i give up

[kwisor]

hello

well i have cleaned the jets three times adj pilot screw and the rt rear car still dose not work proberly i may nee to replace the carb that will have to wait i have no extra mony i want to thank v7goose for all his help i hate to juist let it sit but no choice

bumble bee

[mini-muffin]

Why not replace the jets? That would be the cheaper way to go.

Margaret

[kwisor]

i dont think thay are the problem when i adj the pilot screw allthe way in it dose not change the idel and when running it backfires in rtb rear car and will not run at a stedy speed so when i save up some mony i will let a mach look at to tell what the problem is

bumble bee

[RJD]

But have you checked the electrical end of it. Possibly a bad coil or something causing that cylinder not to fire correctly?

 

 

 

Bob

[Marcarl]

Did you change the plug?

Did you buy the plug from a auto parts store?

Have you tried to add carb cleaner to the gas? When you have about 1 bar left on the gauge, add 1 whole can of spray carb cleaner to the tank and then let it run for about 1\2 hour. Shut it off and let it sit for some time,, over night is ok,,,, then let it run for another 1\2 hour,,, just at idle. Seems the idle circuit might be a bit dirty or plugged and running it down the road will not do much for the idle circuit,, and neither will seafoam do anything for a plugged circuit, but carb cleaner might,, but it needs to be a strong mixture.

[Bob Myers]

If you are determined to remove the carbs one more time, soak it in a lemon juice water solution heated up just short of boil, or soak it in a sonic cleaner with 50% lemon juice. Real lemon juice not the frozen concentrate.

Edited June 5, 2012 by Bob Myers

[Bob Myers]

Did you change the plug?

Did you buy the plug from a auto parts store?

Have you tried to add carb cleaner to the gas? When you have about 1 bar left on the gauge, add 1 whole can of spray carb cleaner to the tank and then let it run for about 1\2 hour. Shut it off and let it sit for some time,, over night is ok,,,, then let it run for another 1\2 hour,,, just at idle. Seems the idle circuit might be a bit dirty or plugged and running it down the road will not do much for the idle circuit,, and neither will seafoam do anything for a plugged circuit, but carb cleaner might,, but it needs to be a strong mixture.

 

This would be my first choice! Let it run until it gets hot!! I got good enough at pulling the carbs on the 99 RSTD I worked on that I could do it without even looking at the bike, and after 5 or 6 pulls, this method worked. Next step was a sonic cleaner and lemon juice

[V7Goose]

hello

well i have cleaned the jets three times adj pilot screw and the rt rear car still dose not work proberly i may nee to replace the carb that will have to wait i have no extra mony i want to thank v7goose for all his help i hate to juist let it sit but no choice

bumble bee

One thing I did not tell you to do is the easiest test of all to verify if the problem is the pilot circuit or something else. With the bike running at idle, spray a bit of carb cleaner or starting fluid at the open vacuum nipple. You should try that on a good cylinder first so you know exactly what to expect from the bad one.

 

If the engine picks up, then you are guaranteed that it is firing but just not getting the idle fuel from the pilot circuit. On the other hand, if it does not react to the starter fluid/cleaner, then you can quit looking at the carbs.

Goose

[kwisor]

hello v7goose

i have done trhat with air box off and sprayed into top of carb all but rt rear changes could i have a bad coil or what else should i look at? bumble bee

kevin

1999 rsv

[V7Goose]

hello v7goose

i have done trhat with air box off and sprayed into top of carb all but rt rear changes could i have a bad coil or what else should i look at? bumble bee

kevin

1999 rsv

Yes, you could have a bad coil or other ignition related problem, or you could have a compression problem. But what you do NOT have is a carb problem.

 

I would start by simply swapping the rear coils. This is easily done by:

1. Swap the wires on the coils (you can see them from under the bike by the swing arm, below the battery), and

2. Swap the plug wires. Now do the spray test on the vacuum nipple like I described. If the problem stays with the same cylinder, you know the coils and plug wires are all good.

Next, swap the spark plugs and repeat the test. If the the problem is still with the original cylinder, you know that it cannot be electrical UNLESS the ignition module is bad (or one of the coil wires is broken). Unfortunately, I do not know of any reliable way to test the ignition module without swapping it. Maybe you can get together with someone in your area to test it that way? Another option is to test it by connecting a tach to that coil trigger wire; that will at least show you if it is regularly firing the coil. If you use a tach, make sure to compare the reading on both coils - you are looking for same RPM and smoothness of the needle. For this test, it does not even make a difference if the tach shows the correct RPM, just that it is the same. If you have an old timing light laying around, you could even try that to at least see if it seems to be flashing steadily.

 

If you do not find an electrical problem, it is time to do a compression test. For this, you can usually borrow/rent a tester from the major auto parts chain stores. When you do a compression test, make sure all the plugs are out and the throttle is held wide open. Test each cylinder (do NOT forget to hold the throttle open!) and compare the results - they should all be fairly close. You can find more details in the shop manual, but for your particular problem, the exact readings are not important - you are just looking to see if the bad cylinder is different than the others.

 

Good luck,

Goose